New key switch

[snackmaster]

Can someone square me away...is this the correct wire sequence? All of the wire diag's i looked at on this forum and on Max/Mudd don't seem to reference my model (15330), they're all "prior to" or "as of", probably b/c they're similar models, i get it...but there are some differences that are throwing me. also, can someone explain the letters on the back of the key switch? thanks

[JoeMeg]

See the pattern of the "blocks" top to bottom? One,then two,then three,then the slanted one to the left? Picture grasping that set of blocks,picking it up,moving it down and setting it on top of the "dashes" and letters. See the pattern? "to (red) rectifier" goes on term B, "To Solenoid" goes to term S,G is chassis ground,Y lights and M is the kill wire to the engine. Hope this helps.

[JohnF]

S - start
G - ground
B - battery
A - accessory
L - lights (if lights are a function of the switch)
M - magneto (this grounds the magneto to kill the engine)
R - rectifier
I - ignition (for electronic engines)

I've been staring at the Y. I have no idea what Y is?

Oh yeah, the switch map is usually useful and you can figure this out easily with a multimeter. In each position, which circuits are closed.

So:
OFF: M-G
ON: B-A-L-I-R
START: B-I-S

I'm just guessing...

[racerone3]

If you have it all wired up as above, and it still isn't working, you may have fried some wires, voltage regulator, and possibly the diode in the kill wire circuit with the issue mentioned in this thread http://www.6x6world.com/forums/engin...t-melting.html

forget the plastic plug that slides onto the back of the switch as the wires may not be inserted into that plug in the correct order. you need to trace with a multimeter and see what each wire actually goes to unless you can tell what color the wire shielding is on each end. EG: if the kill wire by the ID tag on the engine is green, and there is a green wire at the key switch then that is probably both ends of the same wire and it needs to go to the M terminal. Reds get tricky as there may be 3 red wires

[ARGOJIM]

All good points and info. The white wire which goes to red should change colors at the engine plug ,which may only have the red (regulator), black (magneto kill wire) and another white or different color if equipped with a fuel solenoid on the engine side of plug.

[snackmaster]

Thanks again race, this is how i had it wired at first. the problem i think is that i had the red from solenoid direct to M, which fried that and the chassis ground like we talked about...with that being said, where does that red from solenoid go? before i tore everything out, i labeled everything but that. i still have the original key switch that has a red in the M with a green spliced off of it (i cut the wires close enough to re-assemble as it was)...i hope i'm just missing a simple step here

[snackmaster]

ARGO, i do have a black & white going to engine...Blk to Blk and White to Red, with Blk to eng ground and White to Red, under that is 2 yellow clipped to 2 black going behind starter

[ARGOJIM]

OK leave all that be for now. BTW what engine is it, Briggs or Kohler?

What is your current point? Won't start? won't stop? Won't do anything? Lights don't work?

[ARGOJIM]

OK leave all that be for now. BTW what engine is it, Briggs or Kohler?

What is your current point? Won't start? won't stop? Won't do anything? Lights don't work?

Is that the main harness you are holding?

[snackmaster]

I tore everything out, wanted all new wiring. i have a 18h B&S vanguard v-twin. machine ran good before i broke it down, which is why i tried to just plug wires back where they came from, trying to figure where red from solenoid goes...this is the last step before i can drive it again

[ARGOJIM]

Looking at the schematic it appears to go to the ammeter + then changing to white ammeter - and then to key switch upper white. Hook it up to positive post (live) on the solenoid. After your fry check all the fuses.

[snackmaster]

thanks for the wire help...needs some accessories, but at least its rolling again