OK, First off, I am not a noob mechanic, I have rebuilt pleanty of engine, from R/C cars to weedwackers, lawnmowers, on up to large outboards and car/truck engines. But I can't, for the life of me, get the flywheel off this NEW JLO L295. I ran the nut to the end of the shaft, and tried driving it off with quick hammer blows (Being carefull to not damage shaft, nut or flywheel) I put a puller on the flywheel, and tried pulling it. I then pulled on the flywheel while driving down on the puller center bolt, cranked down as hard as possible, holding the engine up by the flywheel while SMASHING down on the center puller bolt, prying up on each side against the ring gear ans hard as I dare with the aluminum case on opposite sides of the flywheel, constantly rotating and re-prying, smashing the center while lifting, re-torquing puller. I have pulled flywheels off rusty junker truck engines and off old 4-cylinder outboards, I have NEVER had anywhere close to this much trouble on anything, ever, honestly. This motor was purchased by the previous owner new, never used. There is no corrosion on it anlywhere except the exaust header. The keyway is aligned, flywheel and shaft, it's not pinched off to one side AT ALL!! I have smashed the flywheel puller center bolt beyond belief. I am using a heavyweight hammer I use for cement nails, I PB Blastered the shaft, the only thing I haven't done yet is torch it, as the coils and points are right there if they aren't wrecked from the blows yet! I need a trick to remove this thing short of explosives, or a new engine. (yes, it's THAT bad!) Oh, and the puller is the one I bought for tractor engines and, originally for a Johnson 115hp outboard, which was old and everything was pretty well ceized together, but this puller pulled it's flywheel off with about half the effor I put into NOT getting this flywheel off!
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I feel your pain, I can build a 9 second engine with my eyes shut but these little engines really are a pain in the behind, I was lucky enough to have a cold chisel on each side and finally it came away. But I was sweating at that point. Best of luck
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Wanted to try heat, but Ignition coil is still good, and can't really cook flywheel enough without heating it too.Flame or excess heat will burn the shellac off the windings and wreck the coils. But if chisels don't work, this may be my last ditch before I cut the dern thing off!
Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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Hey 6x6,
I use a flywheel puller to remove mine. I can't imagine any other way to get one off without using a similar tool.
I think using heat may not be a good idea. The magnets are inside the flywheel and you may screw up their magnetic properties if you heat them up.
I'd be happy to help but it'll be August before I could.Banned
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flywheel
Originally posted by 6X6 View PostWanted to try heat, but Ignition coil is still good, and can't really cook flywheel enough without heating it too.Flame or excess heat will burn the shellac off the windings and wreck the coils. But if chisels don't work, this may be my last ditch before I cut the dern thing off!
I have had the same thing happen a few times on different engines. I'm not sure what type of puller you have, but If you have an air compressor, try using an impact wrench on the pullers center bolt. One thing to remember, don't rap it too hard at first or you may pull the flywheel pullers bolts right out, stripping the threads
The vibration will usually get it to move off of the crank taper.
I just did this last week on my 35 year old JLO 400.
Good luck
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I think GOD himself is holding that thing on. I tried 2 chisels under each side of the ring gear, cranked down the puller with an even bigger breaker bar, hammered till the puller was 'shroomed so bad I couldn't get the socket back on, and nothing. I had to go for grade 8 hardware as I bent up the original bolts and their heads were shearing through the washers
. Wedged in the chisels again and took an Air Chisel (A powerful Snap-On, mind you), seated it in the dent on the crank and BBBBRRAAAPPP! Repeated, again, again...... Nothing. Ok, Puller on with grade 8 hardware. (Dremeled away the 'shroom, again) Socked it down with the Impact wrench, hit the puller bolt with the air-chisel, socked with impact, chisel ... All I've done is wreck a perfectly good puller, bent up grade 8! hardware, smashed my thumb with a masonry hammer, and now I marred the threads in the flywheel so they are still good for the starter, but I can't try and pull with them again.
Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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Holy Unpullable Flywheel, Batman!!
Well, if it doesn't work, get a bigger hammer! 2 large pry-bars on opposite sides of the flywheel, and a lump hammer pounding the shaft thru the middle should move it, right? No. Took out the starter so I could get a shot at the back of the flywheel, turn, hit, turn, hit. No. OK, SCREW IT!! We broke out the Oxy-Acetalene torch (No wussy propane here!) Heat the B*#$%^@! Mounted the Clutch side shaft in a (Padded) Vise, pried up on the flywheel with total disregard for the aluminum. And smashed on the shaft (Padded with a brass piece) with a lump hammer. MORE HEAT, BIGGER BRAZING TIP!! We got it GLOWINGdull orange in the center (The steel part of the flywheel around the shaft) and still could not get it to budge. Nothing.
I don't think there is any other ideas out there, so I'm really just posting this so you can
at me. Jimmy (Mogman) and I will be custom building a puller for this engine, one that will allow us to use a REALLY high torque snap-on impact wrench, crank it right down like there's no tomorrow, and either stall the wrench or pull the wheel. I'll keep you posted, and if it works, anyone else have an interest in a puller that doesn't use the aluminum threads to pull??
Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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Originally posted by Amphiman1 View Postif u break your flywheel.hollar i have a few extra......for u, FREE! ( i see you are suffering,)a new style puller? how much? i'ld buy one
) and now the crankshaft nut as well, and spare parts are never bad. The flywheel puller will thread into the steel threads in the flywheel just outside the crankshaft, that face in towards the crank. The reason JLO put them there is to pull the wheel. They never intended the aluminum threads for the starter cup to be used for pulling, but if you don't get a headache like mine, it seems to work for most people. Jimmy (Mogman) is designing it to be thick, and to take the force of a REALLY BIG breaker bar or ULTRA HIGH TORQUE impact wrench. When he gets it set up, and we test it (Trial by fire) he'll see if they are worth it, and if so, he'll be the one selling them based on what materials cost him and how long it takes.
Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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if you have them try a port-a-power hollow ram, piece of all thread. and you can also heat up the shaft which will do two things, expand the shaft and elongate it. once cooled it should release its grip on the tapered shaft. as we all know aluminum and steel never gets along when it comes to electrolysis. or osmosis whichever.
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