near stall when looking for low end torque

[fornarog]

My (new to me) '89 had a new 22hp Kawasaki water cooled engine in it as part of the rebuild the prior owner had nearly completed. When I need some torque and low end power to turn or handle a log or mud, the engine loses power and seems like it will stall out. i can put it in reverse and not have the same problem. the problem isn't as bad in low gear as high, but still definitely not right and an impediment to getting where i need to go.

I am suspecting carb, fuel filter, or fuel pump setting.

Any thoughts or ideas are really appreciated.

Thanks!

Greg

[Mike]

Does it do it when are going in a straight line in the mud or just when turning? Is this on flat ground or going up/down a hill?

[fornarog]

when turning. we don't have hills where I live on the eastern shore of md. I am thinking it is fuel related somehow. it has a purolator pro fuel pressure regulator that is currently set on 3.5. The filter looks like it is moving fuel without a problem. It starts fine, takes a bit of time to warm up, and will go straight down the dirt road with ease. Turning from a stopped position, or trying to navigate a swampy, muddy trail is next to impossible. I didn't have this problem the first time i had it out.

[ARGOJIM]

First check that you have spark in both cylinders, if you do remove spark plugs check for compression, if good remove valve covers and check for unattached push rods.

All 3 are common with Kawasaki FD engines and crappy or old fuel.

[fornarog]

Yikes! That's WAAAAY beyond my pay grade... I'm handy, but not nearly to that extent. I will start with new fuel and a new fuel filter. I cleaned the carb (carb cleaner only) last week. The prior owner assured me he used ethanol free gas only. It starts and runs fine without putting a big load on it, and will work fine under load in reverse, just not forward high. it works slightly better in low. I bought it in November, and it didn't have this issue the first time out. Since that is when the original tracks split, I didn't use it again until last weekend. That is when this weird problem manifested itself.

[JohnF]

Let it run for a bit to get warmed up. Dribble a little water on the exhaust pipe near each cylinder head. Let us know if vaporizes on one and not the other.

[wedge]

Greg: Where in MD are you ? My shop is in Hanover ,PA and I will help you if you like.
Just PM me .
Tj

[fornarog]

Thanks! Whats the name of your shop in Hanover?

[wedge]

I have a small shop called ReWheel. We do a little bit of everything with a engine and wheels. I do this on the side so I am not listed in the pages.
You can call me after 6 pm M~f and anytime on the weekends. My # (717) 521-4205
Or just PM me here.

[fornarog]

Someone mentioned that this might be clutch related, but the clutch and belt are both new, so this seems odd that me.

[fornarog]

Thanks. Im having some trailer issues as well so it may be a few weeks or so. Meanwhile i am going to start by draining E fuel and replacing the fioter

[JohnF]

Someone mentioned that this might be clutch related, but the clutch and belt are both new, so this seems odd that me.

It can be related to the CVT tuning. Your CVT may be trying to shift too high too quick or staying too high too long. Basically lugging the engine and not allowing it to make it's horsepower.

What Jim and I have suggested is to first make sure the engine is doing it's job.

[ARGOJIM]

It can be related to the CVT tuning. Your CVT may be trying to shift too high too quick or staying too high too long. Basically lugging the engine and not allowing it to make it's horsepower.

What Jim and I have suggested is to first make sure the engine is doing it's job.

Greg, JohnF is correct and in simple terms try this.

Disconnect either front or rear spark plug wire and move it away from the spark plug and try to start, if it starts the cylinder with the spark plug wire attached has spark, if it doesn't the problem begins there. Next try the same with the opposite cylinder.
This will determine a cylinder or spark related fault, such as a fouled spark plug or deeper.

[Delduck]

Napa also sells a plug that has a light on it. You plug one end to the spark plug and the other end to the plug wire. It tells you if your getting electric to the plug. It's about $10.00 well worth it especially after the first time you get shocked. (Speaking from experience)

[fornarog]

Thanks Everyone! I will check the spark plugs. The belt may be "burned", stretched, or the wrong size. I will be checking into this as well.

Greg