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Rebuilding G50b

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  • #16
    The small seal that is in the kit I have appears to fit (but it has no metal cover) and I am waiting on a larger seal to go with it. It appears that the larger seal will be the same as the seal on the mag side. The large seal seams that it wouldn't do much since there are grooves inside the removable cover that would allow pressure to leak past the outside of it.

    I will take some pictures and post them in the morning.

    Thanks
    Jim

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    • #17
      Okay, Jim;

      Now I think we're getting somewhere. There are thin metal shims that go in between the seal flange (four bolt aluminum cover) and the PTO end crank bearing. If that's what we're talking about, you need to put the same shims back in or you'll throw the crankshaft end clearance out of whack. If you replaced the bearings, you need to reset the clearance anyway.

      Don
      Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

      (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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      • #18
        Nope did not replace the bearings and have the two shims. This cover actually has a small seal and a large seal in it. The outer portion of the small seal is metal and this seal goes in first. The second seal seems to be identical to the seal on the mag end. It was pushed into the cover and butted up to the first seal.

        I don't see how the large seal does anything since there are grooves inside the cover. It appears that pressure would go by the outside of the seal via the grooves. I am beginning to think the second seal should not be there. The gasket/seal kit I have only had two seals in it....the one that goes on the mag end 30x62x10 and a smaller one 30x50x8 which I assume goes in the clutch side cover. The gasket set was opened when I got it from the previous owner so I am not really sure what all was in it.

        Is there supposed to only be one seal on the clutch end?

        I have taken some pictures and will post them from work tomorrow.

        All your help is greatly appreciated.

        Jim

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        • #19
          Here are some pictures.
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            I know it is hard to see in the pictures but the outer surface of the little seal is metal.
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              That stuff all came out of the PTO end? If it did, it looks like someone stashed some extra parts in there for you! I've seen the PTO end of the block turned out to accept an additional bearing, but never one with an extra seal.
              Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

              (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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              • #22
                So then you would agree that I should install the small seal(30x50x8) and not worry about the second larger seal? I assume that stock it only had the smaller seal.

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                • #23
                  Yes. I don't know why they put the other seal inside, but it doesn't look like it would do any good.
                  Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

                  (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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                  • #24
                    Thanks for the help Don!!! It is greatly appreciated.

                    I am getting ready to replace the points and condensers so I may have more questions.

                    Jim

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                    • #25
                      Now can I get some help in setting the points?

                      Do I simply spin the flywheel until the points fully open...set them for about .016 and tighten them down? Or do I also need to manipulate the advance system while setting the points?

                      Obviously I have very little experience with breaker point systems....I wish this thing had a CDI.

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                      • #26
                        Don and a few others are the real experts here, but I will try and get you started.....

                        This is an excellent link I found on how to do it....

                        Dan's Motorcycle Flywheel Magnetos

                        Basically, you want the point at which the points open to happen when the marks on the flywheel and case line up exactly. I used the paper method described in that article to check my G50B and it was right on. Put a pc of paper in the points and turn the flywheel while pulling on the paper lightly. When the paper starts to slide out, the marks should line up. Adjust the stator plate position accordingly. Its a trial and error process....check, remove the flywheel and adjust, then recheck. Good luck!

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                        • #27
                          Tango...thanks for the info. So I don't have to do anything with the mechanical advance mechanism as I set the points?

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                          • #28
                            No

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                            • #29
                              Thanks again.

                              Jim

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                              • #30
                                If you set the points both to spec., the timing should be close, but to be sure you need to use a light. You can buy the static timing lights, but they're easy to make out of an old flashlight. Xenoah uses the retarded timing, so there's no need to advance the point cam when you time it. If I can find the timing page, I'll scan it and post it.
                                Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

                                (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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