Starter stuck on oh160

[collij]

I tried to start the motor today (tecumseh oh160). I heard the click like the starter tried to get going and then nothing, just clicks there after when you turn the key. I took the cover off the engine and the starter gear is engaged with the flywheel. Isn't it suppose to retract when your not cranking? Is there something I can do or has it given up the ghost?
John

[Marc]

A drop oil could be the easiest solution, but it seems that there is more to to.
I only have experience with Briggs & Stratton starters, but it should be the same. First check that the full power reaches the starter. Check the that battery is full, hit the solenoid switch but not too hard or bridge it with a big screw driver (in neutral position of cause), if it still not work then check the ground (mass) cable. Maybe grind a bit the points where the cable is connected and clean it with brake cleaner. If you are sure that the full power reach the starter and it still not works then take the starter out. I once had a starter where the mass was transfered through two big housing screws, from the housing to the end cap with the coals. If they are rusty then this could be the reason, grind them and clean them. And i had some starters with broken coals.
The complete endcap with coals and brackets for mounting them cost here in germany about 12 € (15$) so it should be less expensive at your place. Usualy this should work, but in the worst case you burned a winding on the anchor, then of cause it is the best to change the complete starter.
Hope this helps.

[collij]

thanks

Thanks! I'll check that when I get home.

[spits]

I just fixed a 0160 starter problem but this was on a lawn tractor. The starter would engage and not release.There was not enough left in the poor old starter to roll the engine over even with a new car battery. It was so bad that on the floor it would not work. The engine has to turn over fast enough to kick the bendix drive back. The spring may be weak or the starter may be pooched. This starter was done for and had to replace it. Yours may just need that drop of oil. You also can take those starters apart and clean them up, the brass end, install some new brushes and it may be good to go. The shaft where it rotates in the houseing(?) on what is referred to as 'bearings' could be alternetly worn or tight due to friction galling. As already mentioned,you do need a GOOD battery. Hope this helps.

[collij]

progress

Ok, I took the starter off, cleaned and oiled it up, put it back, lightly tapped the solenoid a few times, and it now turns over, thanks for all the suggestions!

Unfortunately, I'm back to my original problem, no spark :-(
It's a new spark plug and the battery is fully charged. How should I start troubleshooting/what should I replace?

Thanks again!

John

[collij]

or maybe

Could it be I have no spark because something is wired wrong, what should I look for?

[collij]

more..

like a kill switch wire??

[Marc]

Are you sure you have no spark? how did you test your spark plug?
Maybe the connection to the spark plug is damaged. Check the isolation of the cable. A new shoe for the sparkplug costs only cents and is installed in a few seconds. If this is not the problem then a mechanic should look after that cause the rest of the ignition is a bit harder to describe. By the way, the cable to stop the engine should go directly from the ignition lock to ground (mass) somewhere at the frame or the transmission housing.
If it is disconnected then the engine will not stop if you turn the key to the off position.

[spits]

I checked your past posts and am wondering,have you ever had this engine running? If for some reason the wiring wasn't hooked up and you put the wrong wire in the wrong place?????? I obviously don't know the history of the machine. If it was not running when you bought it, maybe it had no spark then. These are battery fired engines and if you have by mistake put power to the wrong wire,you can blow the ignition modular. They also have been known to just die on you if they have sat for a long time, moisture has gotten in etc,etc.In their day, and still ,if they are running right ,they are a good solid engine. Some where on the Argo sight in recent past, there was a link for the Tech engines. You should be able to get some info there.

[collij]

more of the saga

Yes, I've had the engine running, but it ran rough and would start to race no matter where you had the throttle. I knew I had the wiring wrong since it wouldn't shut off from the ignition switch so to stop the engine I pulled the spark plug wire off. It wouldn't start after that. I pulled the plug out and turned over the engine to see if there was a spark, I saw none so I assumed that's my problem. I'm such a newbie at this, so that may not be the scientific way to determine if there's no spark.

The history of the machine:
I just purchased it from a guy that had it sitting in his back yard (in the elements) for a few years. All the wiring was disconnected, broken throttle cable, frozen choke, etc.. It was filled with mud so I power washed it, changed the engine oil, T-20 fluid, new plug, emptied the old gas..replaced with fresh, changed gas filter, cleaned the carb, and hooked up the wiring as best as I could. I finally got it to start, but as I described in the first paragraph it ran rough and would constantly race.

[spits]

I'm not positive but i think the plug has to grounded at all times in a run situation. I've made the mistake of pulling a 4x4 over with the ignition on and the plug not grounded and the modual blew.I could be wrong....again. as far as the engine revving it could be a lean fuel problem,due to carb not clean, base gasket for carb missing, damaged or the carb is loose. If not a lean situation then the throttle is openening for whatever reason. I just soak my carbs in raw gas for a couple of days then clean them up with a small stiff brush, tip cleaner for a torch and compressed air. a new kit probably is in order. I do have 2 ignition moduals for that engine if that is the problem.

[collij]

Voltage Regulator

Also, is there suppose to be a voltage regulator on the Max iv with the Tecumseh OH160?