2001 cnquest cuttingout/dieing

[hunter]

Hey hope I'm putting this in the right spot.
My conquest is dieing I just replaced thye fuel pump and took it out for a ride and it ran great for @45min then it just started dieing ,I would let it cool down for 4-5 min then it would start right up and go for another 15 min and it would do the same thing.
Does this sound like a ingniter problem? Has anyone eles had the same problem?
Thanks

[racerone3]

it's probably some trash in the fuel system. when you replaced the pump you may have disloged some trash. i would start with cleaning the carb

[hunter]

I have cleaned the fuel system and carb several times,this is actually the 3rd fuel pump that I have put in this m/c The first two were from napa and this one is from argo .The first one was in the m/c when I bought the m/c and I though it was weak so put a new one in this one seemed to cavatate so I decided to go with argo parts .The m/c is still shutting down but not the way it was when the pump was bad .It just shuts down all of a sudden,not like it is running out of gas. This is why I thougt it might be the inginter any thoughts from any one

[Roger S]

If you think it's spark, carry a spare plug. When it dies, hook a plug wire on it, let it lay on the engine and check for spark. If you have a timing light or one of those lit spark checkers, hook it up and drive with it.

[racerone3]

not sure what engine your machine has, but i've seen several Briggs coils crack. they will work fine cold, but get hot, expand and stop working. test like Roger mentioned. also look to see that your kill wire to the coil isn't rubbing on anything and shorting out

[thejunkman]

argo

does that motor have a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carburator located on the bottom of the float bowl?

[hunter]

Thanks for the info.
This m/c has a kaw 620 ,it has a igniter which runs to two seperate coils then to the plugs,if one coil was bad the engine would run rough and be missing.the carb has or had a fuel shut off solinod but I cut it off,a dealer up here said it is of no real use.Like I said the m/c works great then just shuts down.

[JohnF]

... but I cut it off,...

Do you mean you pulled it off and put a plug in its place or you cut off the wire?

If you only cutoff the wire then you have your fuel shutoff - the purpose of that solenoid. It only runs then because its leaky.

If you don't have the solenoid anymore then I would expect backfires and/or flooding when you shutdown. And you'll probably notice that your fuel pump runs everytime you startup (because your float bowl drained).

[hunter]

I cut the wire off and cut the pin inside off .I don't have any backfiring,but you might be right about the pump running when I turn the key on,do you feel this would be an issue? The dealer who told me this has been selling argos for over 20 years and he said he use to replace then all the time and thought it was just a money grab so tried this and said it worked fine you just need to idle your m/c for a minute or two before shutting it down.
(this solnoid is @ 160.00 can up here,not cheap.)
thanks everyone for the information this is a great site to get information

[JohnF]

... and cut the pin inside off...

Ah... that explains why it is leaky enough to run!

...but you might be right about the pump running when I turn the key on,do you feel this would be an issue?

Pump running an issue? No, its one of those easily noticed symptoms, it means the bowl drained some. Mine has the solenoid and over a couple of weeks sitting it will cycle the pump at key-on for a second or so too.

It will just be more without the operating solenoid.

The dealer ... thought it was just a money grab

Well it does have a purpose - I think mainly to mitigate backfires, flooding, draindown. I think a lot of similar machines are running around without them though.

(this solnoid is @ 160.00 can up here,not cheap.)

I have one on the way at this very moment. $70 shipped to my house. You're right, not cheap.

[magger]

Do you mean you pulled it off and put a plug in its place or you cut off the wire?

If you only cutoff the wire then you have your fuel shutoff - the purpose of that solenoid. It only runs then because its leaky.

If you don't have the solenoid anymore then I would expect backfires and/or flooding when you shutdown. And you'll probably notice that your fuel pump runs everytime you startup (because your float bowl drained).

i have these symtoms!how do i fix it ? its hard to start all the time and pump runssteady . she quit on me this weekend and i needed to give her a shot of raw fuel doun the pipe to get her running.

[JohnF]

i have these symtoms!how do i fix it ? its hard to start all the time and pump runssteady . she quit on me this weekend and i needed to give her a shot of raw fuel doun the pipe to get her running.

Interesting. Once you get it running does it stay running?

I ask because the backfire symptom is sort of an opposite to the won't start symptom.

And if it were running way rich - like it were just dumping fuel - then adding fuel wouldn't make it start easier.

If the shutoff solenoid were not operating properly - like it were gummed up - then the symptoms we are talking about would swap - sometime backfire and sometime not start/run.

Try pulling the solenoid out - put a bolt in its place as a plug - and see if things get all better. Before you start unthreading the solenoid unplug it's wire from the other end so that you don't accidently twist it off. Also, if you can get it running, unplug the fuel pump and let the carb run dry first - less mess when you go to pull the solenoid off. And don't try to start it if there is raw fuel leaking or laying all over the place.

If it is the solenoid then your choices are to replace it (that's what I did), unplug the solenoid and clip off its pin (that's what hunter did), or leave the bolt in(I would buy a real plug - oh, and I've seen this done too). Your choice. But keep in mind that backfiring is not good. Key off = fuel off, that's the idea.

But, if it stays running when you start it with fuel (that mean idle too) then I would think one of the circuits in the carburetor is gummed up and would: (If I thought the carburetor is mostly clean) try SeaFoam to see if it can clean the goo out - OR - most likely hunt down the carburetor rebuild kit and give the carburetor a good soaking in carburetor cleaner. If you go the cleaning route then be sure that after the soaking every nook and cranny gets cleaned, it get a good washing, and air blown through all of the little channels and ports.

By the way, I have rebuilt a carb right after rebuilding it because I skimped on the nook and cranny cleaning and washing part.

Thinking a little more about the solenoid - it is an expensive part - If things look like this is it I would test the solenoid. When it is out of the carb, plug it back in, lay it on something that will ground it, and key-on key-off a few times. You should see that it (the pin on the end) moves freely and with purpose. If this happens then I might try using a can of carb cleaner and the little red tube and spray out the main jet (what the pin fits into) and spraying clean the inside areas of the solenoid. (don't take it apart - I mean all of the parts that would be inside the carb ) Then try it again.