Is this a voltage regulator or cdi box, anyone able to tell me how to properly wire this up?
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voltage regulator?
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"Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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hard to tell with the small pic. does it just have 4 small wires running to/from it, or are there plug wires as well? any markings on the unit?A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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Originally posted by KrS14 View PostThat's your regulator/rectifier.
There should be 2 wires coming from the stator. Those run into the rectifier. The one wire comes out for dc volts. I am not sure if its regulated or not.
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CDI's don't have fins, and that old 2 stroke will be points/condenser.
The reason Rec/Reg's have cooling fins, is because it has to convert the extra voltage to heat to keep you ~ 14VDC when you rev her up. That's what the "regulation" part is for'70's Argo 6x6 - Rebuilt from the ground up. Briggs 18HP Opposed Twin.
Go where you want, don't get stuck, keep the rubber side down.
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I posted a link in another thread on here, the service manual for the kohler 2 strokes, it may help you out some.'70's Argo 6x6 - Rebuilt from the ground up. Briggs 18HP Opposed Twin.
Go where you want, don't get stuck, keep the rubber side down.
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Originally posted by KrS14 View PostCDI's don't have fins, and that old 2 stroke will be points/condenser.
The reason Rec/Reg's have cooling fins, is because it has to convert the extra voltage to heat to keep you ~ 14VDC when you rev her up. That's what the "regulation" part is for
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From the manual:
On battery equipped models, the leads from the alternator are brought out to a rectifier to convert the AC to DC which must be done for charging the battery. On manual start engines without battery, rectification is not required ; there-
fore, one lead is isolated and the other is brought out to the light switch .
Some applications use separate voltage regulators which control voltage regardless of load--most,
however, have unregulated systems which are controlled only by amount Df load . To avoid an over-
voltage condition on non-regulated systems and resulting rapid burn out of bulbs, always recommend
using full output of the electrical systems . If the vehicle lights seem excessively bright, this usually
indicates an overvoltage condition--on the other hand, dim lights could indicate that the load is too
great. For example, if you have a manual start engine with a 40 watt system, use a 5 watt taillight and
a 35 watt headlamp to total 40 watts . Get as close as possible to capacity but don't exceed it . On the 75
watt systems allow 15 watts to charge the battery on electric start models . On manual start models,
use a resistor of appropriate value to make up for any load not used for lights .
Again, these are for OOOOOLD Argo's, like from the 70's that used the kohler 2 strokes.'70's Argo 6x6 - Rebuilt from the ground up. Briggs 18HP Opposed Twin.
Go where you want, don't get stuck, keep the rubber side down.
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Actually reading further into the manual, you may have a CDI type ignition system on that 440. Please download this manual and match it up with what you have.
'70's Argo 6x6 - Rebuilt from the ground up. Briggs 18HP Opposed Twin.
Go where you want, don't get stuck, keep the rubber side down.
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