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Poly Urethane or Stiff Rubber Motor Mounts

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  • AllenCordier
    replied
    v5

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  • wfo
    replied
    heres some pics of what i did on GOLIATH without making the flex of the engine too rigid
    you want to have some kind of isolation but strong and stable.
    Attached Files

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  • wfo
    replied
    go to the GOLIATH thread and you will see what i did when remounting the bigger engine, if i can find other pics i will post them

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  • Tomo
    replied
    hi
    Find a company that specializes in isolation mounts.
    ISO mounts canbe had in different hardness [duro] for the same mount dimensions as rubber.
    If the desired ISO mount cannot be found I then go to a suspension bush manufacture and have the bush made/machined out of the desired urethane or rubber

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  • green
    replied
    I know this is an antique thread but I liked the idea of a solid mount to keep things from twisting during rev. Heres my townied up version. The bolt is Grade 8

    http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/...ps06c003eb.jpg

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  • Mike
    replied
    Originally posted by hydromike View Post
    maybe that's the answer. Keep the rubber bushings/ isolators for minimizing vibration, but keep a torque limiter on it to stop the torsion aspect. Vibration is pretty much a static back and forth (that's a total contradiction, I know...) but trying to eliminate torsion is a whole different ball game. Is that an option on the Max IV, Mike?

    ~m
    Yeah, I already have one on the rear, clutch side of the motor stand to prevent it from moving too far back. Max II's come with something similar from the factory. I think I ended up using a freeze plug for my stop.

    Thanks for all of the suggestions and links.

    I only have excessive movement when I get the Max IV under an extreme load like climbing a really steep hill or a large tree. Then I can feel the plate shaking back and forth and it starts to oscillate more and more unless I let off the throttle. You can kinda see it happening in this video. Fast forward to 1:00 in the video when I am trying to climb that fallen tree:

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  • Roger S
    replied
    I like rubber, although argo doesn't use them. Decades ago, auto engineers redesigned rubber engine mounts so if the rubber sheered, the mount had steel fabrication that limited travel even with broken rubber. that's what I'd be looking for. Poly likes to get loose, esp in suspension.

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  • hydromike
    replied
    Originally posted by Tango42 View Post
    so I built a torque stop to mount near the clutch.
    maybe that's the answer. Keep the rubber bushings/ isolators for minimizing vibration, but keep a torque limiter on it to stop the torsion aspect. Vibration is pretty much a static back and forth (that's a total contradiction, I know...) but trying to eliminate torsion is a whole different ball game. Is that an option on the Max IV, Mike?

    ~m

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  • Tango42
    replied
    I changed over my superchief to urethane last year. They stiffened things up and didnt cause a noticable increase in vibration. I got them from here: MISUMI USA, Inc.. It still wasnt stiff enough for me.....so I built a torque stop to mount near the clutch. Its basically a plate with a urethane bumper that limits how far the motor can pull towards the transmission to keep the clutch center to center distance more constant.

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  • jeffery9076
    replied
    beefy

    I use the beefy ones or something like hydromike showed the link for that came with industrial size blowers for shipping purposes they just throw them away. Bruiser still pitches the engine forward some during rev up. I was thinking of polyurethane mounts some type of body lift for vehicles. I might be going to work for my previous employer for winter.. I hope Then i will have access to drill presses ,lathes. plastic welders. plastic formers, I need to get a piece of abs and get some abs flange rings made for the outside bearings

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  • jpswift1
    replied
    Originally posted by mad_max_500cc View Post
    mike have you seen the aluminum and rubber mount setup that ri uses on the higher hp motors? i have them on my max and seem alot more solid than the rubber ones ill snap a Pict when i pull the engine out (maybe this weekend )
    Eric is right on about this. Those aluminum motor mounts with the hard rubber vulcanized onto them work great. I'd be more than happy to pick some up for you the next time I go to RI.

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  • mad_max_500cc
    replied
    mike have you seen the aluminum and rubber mount setup that ri uses on the higher hp motors? i have them on my max and seem alot more solid than the rubber ones ill snap a Pict when i pull the engine out (maybe this weekend )

    Leave a comment:


  • 6X6
    replied
    Hi Mike:
    I'm talking with Mogman (Jimmy) about this, and he's thinking what I am. Poly isolators are stiffer and will not wear out as fast (get too soft) Poly-urethane is more desirable in automotive use, but if I redo the isolators in any of my machines, I would personally favor Poly over rubber. As for the shear strength, like Lewis said, that doesn't directly state how hard they are. I used to have a durometer when I raced R/C on-road for testing and matching Foam tires ( Yea, I was TOO into it), and that is the true hardness test.

    (Edit) Both me and Jimmy would personally use a Poly isolator to remove the flex without hard-mounting. If you talk to any Hot-rodder or Muscle-car guy they'll tell you they went to poly bushing in their suspension to remove play and sway, and these machines aren't going to produce the stress to shear an appropriately sized/rated Poly mount.
    Last edited by 6X6; 10-18-2010, 10:55 PM. Reason: Cause I didn't really have an answer originally, just rambling.....

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  • lewis
    replied
    Mike the durometer reading is how soft or hard a product is. Mcmaster-Carr is a very good source for machine vibration mounts.
    McMaster-Carr the bottom of the page there is a two piece vibration isolator. I has a very significant axial and radial load capacity. I used a two piece on the crush and torqued them down equally and they seem to work well. They have a center line bolt that is removable.

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  • Mike
    replied
    Thanks everyone, that was exactly the kind of input I needed. I think I will try one of the higher strength rubber isolators like you linked to Mike and then if I still get too much flex I will eliminate it by going with a hard plastic or even metal mount. I have to have something to raise the motor stand up above the sprockets otherwise I could just mount the motor stand directly to the frame.

    I found some poly mounts on that first site I linked to but their shear rating was much less than some of the rubber ones.

    Brian, after hearing your comment about not using any isolators at all that makes me a little more comfortable with doing that if I have to.

    Thanks again.

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