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Please watch this video. I need clutch removal help.
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With the engine removed, if you can support the clutch, clutch face up, on either side, with the engine hanging (With something just an inch away that won't damage the engine in any way if it drops) unthread the bolt a couple turns just to get a small gap (if you thread it out much, you risk damaging threads!!!!) then give the bolt head some taps with a hammer, don't go nuts, I have had to do this but just a couple one-handed hits with a light hammer has always done the trick. The engine shouldn't drop away, unless the clutch slips off the support, but that's why you already have something right there so it can't fall.
You can get a new bolt, same thread but longer than the clutch bolt and bottom it out by hand (DON'T WRENCH DOWN) and hit harder. You won't damage the engine if you don't get ballistic, but if you miss on a swing the clutch is toast, so still keep it sane. PB Blaster is your friend. It's like WD40 but in my opinion FAR FAR superior. I use PB almost exclusively now.Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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Remove the clutch bolt and spray a penetrating oil into the bolt end of the clutch, PB Blaster or Kroil oil. Take jack and lift machine to angle so penetrating oil will travel completely down shaft. Rotate clutch and spray again....repeat several times until you feel the entire shaft has been penetrated good. Removing plugs allows for easier rotation of clutch but is not necessary. Don't rush this process...take you time penetrating takes a little time. Look for penetrating oil to run down the motor side of clutch, After sufficient time install bolt back into clutch leaving 1/4 inch extended, get a hard rubber or shock ping hammer and tap all around clutch tap on bolt. It may pop off at this point. Just tap don't
If Not:
A few soft (Pine) wooden wedges can be inserted between the clutch and engine. Try to install the wedges 180 degrees from each other. As John stated don't drive them in with a 3 lb hammer. Just tab them into place around the clutch. Then with the bolt loosened about 1/4 inch or so tap on the bolt head. When inserting the wedges look for good boss type locations. Apply more pressure on wedges and tap again. Note: Do not bust the engine casing or clutch. Once pressure is applied and tapping has not worked move away from machine let it sit. Sometimes it will release on its own.
Remember don't drive these wedges in like you are splitting wood! Once clutch is removed apply a anti-seize to the motor shaft prior to re-installing the clutch.
If this does not work remove engine and apply John's method.
Hope this helps.Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
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Just incase anyone is keeping score on price. OUCH! Anybody have ideas for cheaper replacements? I've seen high performance ATV parts at half this price? Is argo nuts? $410.00?
Driver Clutch, Big Foot and Response (18 HP)
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CVTech-IBC - - Poulies motrices
Try this place for price. Upper right hand corner is English. This is the power block clutch.Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
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I guess I should have asked first; how to tell if the clutch is beyond repair? I see no cracks in this primary, but the edges of the inner pulley have scars. It might be burnt belt. I won't know until I can have a chance to dig deeper. Also, you can see in the vid that both pulleys are grooved in two spots. Is that repairable with sanding?Last edited by waylonh; 10-27-2010, 01:53 PM.
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You may wan to review the attached video http://www.6x6world.com/forums/trans...ches-vids.html to see if you want to tackle the job in place. You can get the cover off of the clutch by removing the large hex nut and service and lube the weights. You can remove the clutch retaining bolt by wedging a block between the body and engine mount to deform the body. Removal of the bolt will depend on the bolt length. I can just about get the bolt out in my Bigfoot. Otherwise you may want to drill a hole in the body and fit it with Max type drain plug to seal it off later. The spring and sheave removal will take some imagination and and maybe some long threaded rods.Acta non verba
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Originally posted by lewis View PostCVTech-IBC - - Poulies motrices
Try this place for price. Upper right hand corner is English. This is the power block clutch.
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Elementary good man. Some times persistence pays off. Glad you got it off.Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
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