JLO 400 question

[chris lewis]

Hi all,

I have installed a JLO 400 in my MAXII and found out the starter was messed up. I had new bearings and the starter rebuilt. I have installed it and tried to start the unit. The starter works and stuff but when the engine would catch, the bendix would kick out but then it apparently jammed against the ring /starting gear. Is there a lash dimension that the bendix and starter ring should have? I fear I have damaged the ring gear.

ANy help or input is appreciated. I may need a new ring gear for the same engine if anyone has one out there.

I still do not know if the transmission works! OY VAY!

Chris

[jpswift1]

This might help you, it's the JLO service manual. It will some time to load, it's a big file. http://www.czmartin.com/jpw/JLO_ServiceManual.pdf

[chris lewis]

OK, another new question. I have given up on the starter..it is just chewing up the starter ring gear. Good hing is the starter motor works great!

So, 2 new questions:
1. my ignition switch will not kill the engine. When I pull start the engine, it runs and runs and runs...but I cannot shut it off. What am I missing here? Obviously something is supposed to ground out the ignition but what is it???

Question 2: I obviously got the engine running based on above question. I have the air cleaner off so that I could make sure the butterfly and choke is working. BUT looking in the venturi of the carb, gas is kind of gushing out of the jet where the needle sticks through the side of the carb..this is the long needle.. I think it is a mixture screw...but it is just burgling and grgling spewing gas out...in fact, it is actually blowing gas out of the venturi and it splatters all over the place...VERY DANGEROUS...THE key is that it is doing this ONLY when running...NOT when it is not running.

This is a JLO 400 with a WDA 52 carb on it.

HELP!

Thanks again.
Stuck in South Carolina with a problematic max II

Chris

[chris lewis]

Hi all,

I am still having troubles with this JLO 400. I pulled the carb apart and reset the actuating arm on the needle to .020
NOw, I cannot get it running at all. I can get it to pop when I use starting fluid but that is it...there is fuel pumping from the tank and I can see it running through the return line. I think now it is not feeding throug hthe needle seat..

Anyone ?? Help.

Thanks
Chris

[jpswift1]

Just get yourself a Mikuni carburetor and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches. You'll need a carb, like a VM 30 or 32 and the rubber mounting flange.

[SixGunNick]

+1 on the mikuni just put a 34mm on my jlo400 and it is running great after a few minor adjustments pm me if you have questions

[chris lewis]

hi nick,

where did you find the mikuni carb and the adapter plate? I did get my engine running...but something weird happened. I bought the engine used...and tonight,after pulling the carb apart for the umpteenth time, I went to pull start the engine and it was locked down. I pulled the plugs and there was rust on the plug...mind you, I have been trying to get this running for the past few weeks so it has not been running>>>but it has been turnign over.. I put some oil in the spark plug hole and got it to spin over again...I replaced the plugs and it actually started..and woudl run provided I had the choke on partway. It would run at a high speed even with the butterfly for throttle closed and then it would die. I messed wiht the needle valves but had similar results.

I did note that there is a brownish color in the vacuum line from the bottom vac port to the fuel pump...I am wondering if there is some humidity trapped in the engine causing rust/// hence the rust on the plugs....Really weird...I never rebuilt the engine after I got it but that has been about 1 year ago and it has been in my garage ever since.

Regardless, wht would cause the engine to just run at high speed and only at choke?

Thanks for the input!

Chris Lewis

[hydromike]

Hi Chris....

The rust color on your plug and on your vacuum line may suggest that you've got a bit of oxidation (rust ) in the lower end of your engine. It may not be critical, but might be something to look into before you go much further with your build. The engine running at high speed, but with the choke on, suggests that the engine is sucking a lot of air, and needs more fuel (hence your need for the choke on...) Sucking air might mean that your crankshaft or intake manifold (I think crank...) seals are a bit dried out and/or cracked, letting air by. This isn't good, as it might cause a lean condition, and eventually hurt your engine badly. Probably sooner, than later. There are other causes that could cause the need for the choke on, mainly carburetor issues. If the engine has been sitting for quite a while, though, I'd suggest looking into the bottom end of the engine, just as a precaution.

It'll still run under a lean condition, but it's not good. Changing out the crank seals is a bit of a task, but not impossible, and a good step in an older two stroke. If you decide that this might be your culprit, let us know and there are plenty of folks that can guide you along the way getting her fixed up.

~m

[chris lewis]

Hydromike,
Hmm. that is not what I was wanting to hear. I tore down and almost completely rebuilt my JLO 440 but then found this 400 for sale. I was hoping I could get away with at least running it and seeing that the Max will even move under its own power. The sucking air thing also would make sense as it is quite hard to get started.

IF I do a tear down, I essentially need to rebuild the entire engine (new gaskets/seals etc...what do you guys do for the center seal on the crank...since that is a pressed crank, I venture to say that double seal would warrant a replacement too.


I had bought many parts for the 440 and it is essentially a short block right now...I just stopped when I needed more parts and the 400 came along.

What would you guys do? Try to complete the 440 (on which I have new NOS pistons, gasket kit, new seals (gulp..those were expensive as they are only for the 440 electric start). I do still need a pull start assembly, pulleys, stator plate etc. for the 440. I could possibly pull those parts from the 400.

I also just had the electric starter rebuilt for hte 400...as it was binding up.

I think Busco beach is NOT an option this year...again.

Thanks for the input and help
Chris

[chris lewis]

Hydromike,
Hmm. that is not what I was wanting to hear. I tore down and almost completely rebuilt my JLO 440 but then found this 400 for sale. I was hoping I could get away with at least running it and seeing that the Max will even move under its own power. The sucking air thing also would make sense as it is quite hard to get started.

IF I do a tear down, I essentially need to rebuild the entire engine (new gaskets/seals etc...what do you guys do for the center seal on the crank...since that is a pressed crank, I venture to say that double seal would warrant a replacement too.


I had bought many parts for the 440 and it is essentially a short block right now...I just stopped when I needed more parts and the 400 came along.

What would you guys do? Try to complete the 440 (on which I have new NOS pistons, gasket kit, new seals (gulp..those were expensive as they are only for the 440 electric start). I do still need a pull start assembly, pulleys, stator plate etc. for the 440. I could possibly pull those parts from the 400.

I also just had the electric starter rebuilt for hte 400...as it was binding up.

I think Busco beach is NOT an option this year...again.

Thanks for the input and help
Chris

[johnj]

Hey man,
I read where u adjusted the fuel mixture screw because it was giving u too much fuel. This could be some of your problem. When u adjusted the mixture u might have went too lean u also need to make sure your fuel lines and filter are not partially plugged. Also take the needles out of your carb and clean them good and blow air through them. Then readjust the needles. As far as the kill switch problem I bet it is related to your starter issue. The solenoid is wired wrong or has a short and it isn't giving tthe starter enough juice to stayy engaged. I would check ur wiring and look for cut/bent wires that could be broken inside. Also make sure ur grounds are good.

[johnj]

Hey man,
I read where u adjusted the fuel mixture screw because it was giving u too much fuel. This could be some of your problem. When u adjusted the mixture u might have went too lean u also need to make sure your fuel lines and filter are not partially plugged. Also take the needles out of your carb and clean them good and blow air through them. Then readjust the needles. As far as the kill switch problem I bet it is related to your starter issue. The solenoid is wired wrong or has a short and it isn't giving tthe starter enough juice to stayy engaged. I would check ur wiring and look for cut/bent wires that could be broken inside. Also make sure ur grounds are good.

[spud9slim18]

chris, as mike mentioned the seals may be bad you could do a leak-down test pull the pipe and carb and plug with expandable plumber pipe plugs remove a spark plug and install a theaded air valve use a bicycle pump (better contol than compressed air supply) pump up the crankcase to 5 psi to 7 psi and see if it holds air (someone here may know the correct psi your engine should hold ) if it does the seals are good if not air it up again and use a spray bottle of soapy water to see where it is leaking air double check the pipe plugs also to make sure they are in tight good luck spud9/tim