New Engine

[golpher76]

I just picked up a new Briggs 14 hp out of a cub cadet last night. motor has 540 hours on it and was just serviced by the company I bought it off of. They charged me 300 for it and started it up for me on the bench she purrs like a kitten. Where can I get a 16hp carb for that beast, and I ordered a adapter from cartpartsplus.com so I can use my existing 30mm clutch on the 1" shaft. I am stopping tonight to get the steel I need to make my new motor mount bracket I can't wait for my adapter to come in I am stoked.

[racerone3]

FYI: you may find that you need to change weights and springs in the old 2 stroke clutch to make it perform properly with the 4 stroke as the 2 stroke turns about double the RPM

[golpher76]

do you have a recommendation on which ones to use?

[racerone3]

not a clue... I've always just bought a 4 stroke clutch for any conversions I've done

[thebuggyman1]

Of course there is the OTHER option....get the briggs to turn the 6-7000 rpm that the 2 stroke would
It'll gain a few hp too, or go the expensive route and change rods/mill pistons change cam and get mid 20's for HP.

[golpher76]

HMMM, I always thought that it was the spring on the secondary that decided the rpm that your machine would start to move at.

[hydromike]

...if the primary clutch isn't engaging to drive the belt, the secondary will just sit idle regardless. You can have a wicked strong spring and big heavy weights on the primary clutch and the secondary won't budge until you hit 5000rpm, for example. I ran a yellow (stock Attex 400 two stroke) spring on a T-20 in my 4-stroke Chief for a few years, and it peformed respectably. The drive clutch was changed over to a Comet 1180 4-stroke model. I've since changed the T-20 spring over to a red or green spring (can't remember...), and it's a bit better.

If you can find a nice 4-stroke clutch, that's already calibrated for one of our machines, that'd be your best bet.

~m

[golpher76]

I really didn't want to spend 300 on a new clutch but it looks like I am going to have to. I'll just have to use the 2 stroke one for now and order the 4 stroke one next week.

[golpher76]

Ok so I got the new engine in and I can't get it to pump fuel I hooked a ground wire up the the ground on the shrowd and the red wire to my batt. It turns over but there is another orange wire there with a black coating on it that I don't know where it goes. Any help would be appreciated guys. If I spray a little fuel into the carb it starts right up so there must be something that I am missing.

[racerone3]

if your talking about the small stud on the same side of the shroud that the starter is on, that's probably the kill wire. if the engine is running with that grounded, then the wire on the inside of the shroud is probably bad. the other wire is probably a charging wire. can you post a pic of the wires in question?

[golpher76]

This is the pic racerone and yes I hooked my kill switch up to the bolt on the shrowd it just won't pump fuel for some reason but all hoses etc are new.

here is a pic of the wire in question.

[Middlefork Miner]

I know nothing about your engine...or where your fuel tank is located...that said, I mounted a squeeze bulb primer between my fuel tank & engine in the trackster I had...once you get the line/filter/pump/carb primed, you shouldn't have any problems unless you're sucking air in the line at some point...I'm assumeing it has a pump capable of drawing from wherever your tank is located.

[golpher76]

the wire in the pic i posted goes to solenoid on my carb. I am assuming this is why I am not getting fuel but I still don't know where it should be hooked.

[racerone3]

you have 2 options on the solenoid on the carb. you can either run a wire to it that is hot when the ignition is on. that will open the plunger on the solenoid and let fuel flow from the bowl up into the carb. (test it first to make sure the solenoid works by hooking a jumper from battery + to the solenoid wire). when you make the connection you should hear the solenoid click. the other option is to remove the solenoid, cut the plunger off and reinstall the solenoid as a plug in the bottom of the carb and not bother with the wire. it is called an anti-backfire solenoid and instantly cuts fuel when you shut off the ignition. if you hook up the jumper and hear a click, you should be able to fire the engine right up. When I'm doing a conversion and having to build new wiring, I run the alternator wire up to the headlight pole on the ignition switch, when the key is on it feeds through the switch and back to the battery to charge. If you go this route, you can hook the solenoid wire to the alternator wire to simplify the process and avoid having to run another wire up to the ignition switch

[golpher76]

sweet ty racer i figured it out myself about 40 mins ago so I am all set and getting fueled up and ready for my first ride. ty again sir.