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kawasaki 20 hp hard start/ wont idle

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  • kawasaki 20 hp hard start/ wont idle

    I just traded for a 2000 Argo conquest with the kawasaki 20. First day it ran good for a while then began to die and we would have to choke it to get it to start. Got home and it wouldn't start without starter fluid.
    I replaced the plugs, fuel filters and it ran grea the next day for a good 2 hours. As we were leaving it died going up a large ditch. Choked it and it started back up and drove on back to the truck. Get home and it won't start without starter fluid.
    I took the carb off and cleaned everything out really good. Get the carb back on and now it won't start without the choke and won't idle without holding the gas to it.
    The plugs were both covered in carbon so I tried the old plugs without a change. I've tried adjusting the mixture. I've taken the carb back apart 3 times to make sure its doesn't have any trash in it. Fuel filter still looks good.

    Any advice anything else to check?

  • #2
    There is an electric fuel pump mounted near the gas tank. Did you check to see if it is pumping fuel? Could be a bad connection and pumping intermittantly or not at all.

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    • #3
      Fuel pump is working. I can feel it running and I removed the fuel hose at the carb to confirm it is pumping fuel with the key on.

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      • #4
        I am new to the 6x6 world, so I don't know what specific Kawasaki 20hp engine you are refering to, but it sounds like you are having similar issues to what I am seeing with my CCW 2 cycle engine. Mine won't start without starting fluid when cold, doesn't idle correctly, and has been known to die when running up a hill (mine was when loading it into a truck).

        One of the thoughts I have had is that it could be caused by a vacuum leak, causing it to run lean especially at low RPM and when starting (hense the bad idle and additional fuel needed at start). I was going to check for a leak by getting the engine running and idling as low as possible and then spraying carb cleaner around the intake, carb and any vacuum lines (and in my case the crank shaft seals since it is a 2 cycle). If there is a leak and you spray carb cleaner around it, it will draw in the carb cleaner and the engine will rev up temporarily. I have used this trick with success to identify vacuum leaks many times.

        I was going to try this out this weekend but we had a cold snap this weekend and I didn't feel like going out into 10 degree weather to work on stuff.

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        • #5
          You may need to take Carb apart and soak in chemtool I believe it comes in a gallon pail from parts house with a basket inside cost about $30 but it cleans all the gunk out you can't get too. Mine had same problem took Carb apart 3-4and times and still didn't run right put in cleaner over night put it back on and ran perfect. Also take valve cover off and make sure the push rods didn't come out these motors are bad about them coming out after sitting for a while.

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          • #6
            I'll take a look under the valve covers tonight. May have to give it a good soaking too

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            • #7
              Originally posted by marshrunner View Post
              You may need to take Carb apart and soak in chemtool I believe it comes in a gallon pail from parts house with a basket inside cost about $30 but it cleans all the gunk out you can't get too. Mine had same problem took Carb apart 3-4and times and still didn't run right put in cleaner over night put it back on and ran perfect. Also take valve cover off and make sure the push rods didn't come out these motors are bad about them coming out after sitting for a while.
              You are correct about these engines and the valves, when i had the 2003 i was warned about this issue. Once you find the problem keep some type of fuel satilizer to keep varnish from forming. Kaw does not make these engines any more so take care of it. From what i am understanding they basicly made them for Argo to put in these machines. The carb cleaner techinque workd pretty good. Same works on cars.
              Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"

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              • #8
                Took covers off and push rods are in and everything moves as it should. I removed the pickup tube in the tank and it was gunked almost closed on the bottom couple inches. Cleaned it out really good. I replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the pump and cut the old piece open. It was not gummed up at all. It still has the exact same problems. Every jet, hole, tube on the carb has been cleaned and recleaned. They all pass air and cleaner through them with ease. I've checked spark on both cylinders also. I guess my next move is carb off and soak. I loved this Argo for a couple hours and now I want to watch it burn. Thanks for the advice guys, I worked on it until 2 this morning and several hours already today. Do any of the big name parts houses carry gaskets and carburetor rebuild kits?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lewis View Post
                  You are correct about these engines and the valves, when i had the 2003 i was warned about this issue. Once you find the problem keep some type of fuel satilizer to keep varnish from forming. Kaw does not make these engines any more so take care of it. From what i am understanding they basicly made them for Argo to put in these machines. The carb cleaner techinque workd pretty good. Same works on cars.
                  I have also tried the carb cleaner trick and found no leaks that way. The guy I got it from said he never ran ethanol gas in it but he also hadn't used it much lately. I put seafoam in the tank as soon as I got it home. Could a blocked fuel tank vent be giving me problems?

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                  • #10
                    The fuel solonid on the lower left of the carb has given me trouble with these 20 hps. Make sure it operates with 12 volts to it. Ive had them stick closed and then the fuel is shut off from the main jet. Also stick part way and have no top end power. Remove and test with jumper wires, dosent take much to hang them up. good luck.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
                      The fuel solonid on the lower left of the carb has given me trouble with these 20 hps. Make sure it operates with 12 volts to it. Ive had them stick closed and then the fuel is shut off from the main jet. Also stick part way and have no top end power. Remove and test with jumper wires, dosent take much to hang them up. good luck.
                      Fuel cutoff solenoid has been disabled.

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                      • #12
                        I'm about to take the carb apart for a good soaking. I hope this works. Is the timing adjustable on these motors?

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                        • #13
                          No it fires off the coils that are permanently set and flywheel is on key. You could get offset key but that's not your problem.

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                          • #14
                            Have you checked the compression on it yet?

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                            • #15
                              FIXED. I took the carb completely apart again and soaked it for a couple hours. Took it out and blew it all off and out with compressed air. Replaced the gaskets and reassembled everything according to the pictures I took before o started. Idles great now. Thanks for all the input and advice.

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