Are Briggs Intek Engines Any Good?

[Tinodesis]

I'm planning to purchase a 14-16 hp Briggs for a Max 6x6 project. A forum member advised me to avoid the Intek engine. I haven't been able to reach him for more info.

What are the problems with these engines? I googled for info and found they are hard to start and need to have the valves adjusted to prevent this.

Do you have any feedback on this?

Thanks.

[thebuggyman1]

For the money you really can't beat a Honda clone.
Easily built to low to mid twenties for HP if you want.
DuroMax 16 HP Go Kart Log Splitter Gas Power Engine Motor-XP16HPE Electric Start (891784001112) | eBay

[mustangwagz]

almost every intek i've ever owned has burned oil like crazy...eventually leading enough oil bypass that they hydro-locked the motor and snapped the connecting rods.. ive had 3 do this so far in my mower. lol...well....they had a rough life, but still. One of them just spit out its bearings, and the other one that locked also had valve issues. but thats my 2 pennies on em. go with a brigs vanguard, or a kohler or the clone.

[racerone3]

Sorry I didn't get back to your PM regarding the Intek line of engines sooner. I read it on my phone and intended to reply when I got to a pc but it slipped my mind.

In my opinion, Intek = JUNK! I work on 200-300 lawn mowers a year, and whenever one shows up with an Intek, I know the customer wont be happy with the bill. Internal part failures are common. the rods are either much thinner, or of a lower quality casting than the I/C or Vanguard lines. The carbs are factory set VERY lean to meet emission standards, and they are a non adjustable carb. This leads to excessive heat, and wear on rings, causing the blow by (burning oil) that Wagz mentioned. It can also cause enough heat to stick the piston in the bore. at that point the rod pulls out of the piston, makes 3 laps around the inside of the engine smashing the cam shaft and lifters, then creates an exit point in the side of the block. On the bright side, once it cools the piston usually frees up enought to move it and look at the carnage in the bore.
I generally try to keep 2-3 I/C's or Vanny's(when I'm lucky enough to get one on a junk mower) around as replacements for blown Intek's

[mustangwagz]

On the bright side, once it cools the piston usually frees up enought to move it and look at the carnage in the bore.

OH man..i seriously just sneezed/Coughed/Laughed pepsi all over the place..wow it burned as it came out... that was good....so....there IS a good point to the inteks!!!

[Tinodesis]

Sorry I didn't get back to your PM regarding the Intek line of engines sooner. I read it on my phone and intended to reply when I got to a pc but it slipped my mind.

In my opinion, Intek = JUNK! I work on 200-300 lawn mowers a year, and whenever one shows up with an Intek, I know the customer wont be happy with the bill. Internal part failures are common. the rods are either much thinner, or of a lower quality casting than the I/C or Vanguard lines. The carbs are factory set VERY lean to meet emission standards, and they are a non adjustable carb. This leads to excessive heat, and wear on rings, causing the blow by (burning oil) that Wagz mentioned. It can also cause enough heat to stick the piston in the bore. at that point the rod pulls out of the piston, makes 3 laps around the inside of the engine smashing the cam shaft and lifters, then creates an exit point in the side of the block. On the bright side, once it cools the piston usually frees up enought to move it and look at the carnage in the bore.
I generally try to keep 2-3 I/C's or Vanny's(when I'm lucky enough to get one on a junk mower) around as replacements for blown Intek's

No problem racerone3. I wasn't sure how often you were on the site.

Your description above along with the additional replies have me convinced.

Thanks to all for replying!