Custom heated throttle cable

[Duck89]

I bought a spare engine today that I found on craigslist. While I was talking to the gentleman, he showed me his max which has a kawasaki motor in it. He said when he uses the machine during real cold days, the throttle cable will freeze up. He asked me if I knew how he could go about possibly making his throttle cable heated instead of buying one online. I told him that I didn't know, but that I knew of a pretty good website to check for him

Does anybody know how this guy could go about doing this with the existing throttle cable on his max with the kawasaki motor?

[teeko]

I've never had a throttle cable freeze on my sled. Get a cable luber and keep it clean and oiled. I have heard a few times on here about freezing cables. Having never actually driven an aatv (I'm rebuilding my first one) is there something I'm missing about these cables? Do they regularly get wet? Muddy?

[Duck89]

I am also building my first one too, so I guess I can't really speak to anything on freezing cables on aatv's, but I can also say that I have never had a cable freeze on any of my sleds, even the OLD polaris indy txl!!! I have had some time to think about this since yesterday and, like you said, I think keeping it clean and oiled would be his best bet, or at least a good place to start with his custom rig.

[amphibious drew]

Being we go around water alot, as well as the fact that the inside of our machines needs cleaned regularly, water can get down the cable and do what it does when its below freezing. Teeko your right about cleaning and lubing the cable, but sometimes things happen. I got a heated cable from ri for my Attex for the just in case moments. There was a discusion of how to make one in a thread somewhere on hereif I remember correctly. Its only a wire with a bag over it used as a make shift heating element.

[msafi65]

I operate these machines for about 6 months a year when it can freeze. Dont want to be a stick in the mud but its easier to purchase the cable from RI. His machine is new enough to have most of the wiring allready in the harness. Getting the proper length of resistance wire to get 10 ohms and wraping it on the cable is a pain. if you have the resistance wrong it could melt the cable. Part of my service is to blow out the throttle cable with compressed air and isopropyl alcohol(HEET) then lube with silicone cable lube or a water resistant lube. I also tell people to cover the throttle lever with a glove or tin can to prevent moisture from traveling down the cable. I used to use antifreeze in the cables but it got sticky with age and the alcholol and lube has been great for years now.

[applejack]

the 1st time my kaw powered maxll cable froze, i about dirtied my diaper. i started it up and instantly it was full throttle and a wheelie!

[tattooman]

Once you go heated, you will never go back. I also cover my sticks with a rubber bag. Your throttle is like a cup. The only place water can go is down into the cable. Don't give it a chance.

[applejack]

my max has a cab so it gets in somewhere else. also its kept inside.

[MAX IV Mark]

Let me give you my thoughts. My MAX IV cable has been freezing up pretty quickly lately. I took off the boot on the engine end of the cable while the machine was warm and in my shop. I blew compressed air in it and water came out of the other end, then I added some lightweight low temp lube once the water was gone.. The water that gets inside has no where to drain because the both ends are at the top. It needs a setup like my mountain bike, where the cable goes the whole length but the center is open and it only has the outer casing on the ends. This could be done by running it through the center of the control tube for the right lateral and putting the Ferrels to hold the outer cable sheath on each end of that lateral control rod. This way nothing in the tub can touch the throttle cable. but any water that got into the cable from either end will drain out into the lateral control tube. The cable would also work easier because it would have less contact area between cable and sheath for friction. Just another screwy idea of mine that I may try out when I get a chance.
MAX IV Mark

[Hogneck]

I operate these machines for about 6 months a year when it can freeze. Dont want to be a stick in the mud but its easier to purchase the cable from RI. His machine is new enough to have most of the wiring allready in the harness. Getting the proper length of resistance wire to get 10 ohms and wraping it on the cable is a pain. if you have the resistance wrong it could melt the cable. Part of my service is to blow out the throttle cable with compressed air and isopropyl alcohol(HEET) then lube with silicone cable lube or a water resistant lube. I also tell people to cover the throttle lever with a glove or tin can to prevent moisture from traveling down the cable. I used to use antifreeze in the cables but it got sticky with age and the alcholol and lube has been great for years now.

I am having trouble with my RI heated cable. It has 10 ohms to ground through the Heat wire. I am getting my power both ends. I even hooked directly to battery and still no heat. I don't get it ! I guess the heat wire is NFG. Sucks to have it and not have it work.

[msafi65]

They don't get really hot. If frozen the heater will thaw it out. 10 ohms is good you probably can't feel the heat outside the clear tube. Keep it dry if you can Hope this helps

[Hogneck]

They don't get really hot. If frozen the heater will thaw it out. 10 ohms is good you probably can't feel the heat outside the clear tube. Keep it dry if you can Hope this helps

Well,...hope is all I can do..... Tatooman,s throttle cable gets warm enough to say yah buddy ! But his is a max 2 and shorter in length.....????

[wheeler]

Anybody know how much new heated throttle cables are?

[hydromike]

I think we've picked them up for about $45 or so directly from RI here in Buffalo. They're a stone-simple piece of equipment with just the switch, the fuse, the resistor and the heating element. I'd suggest taking a look at the individual components and see if you can't figure out what went bad. There's no need to replace the entire cable. Stupid question here, but have you checked the fuse? I forget which end the resistor is on, but you might be able to look at that and see if it's damaged or replace it. I bet a replacement is less than a quarter at Radio Shack. Double check the ground, too. Does the light come on at the switch? You can very easily take the whole thing apart and put it back together with new heat-shrink tubing and cable ties.