Argo Conquest Kawi 20hp issues?

[Rock Doctor]

So if any one was interested I fixed the problem with the kawi today. With a big thanks to RockDoctor I pulled the valve cover and found not a bent rod but a misplaced rod. somehow it had come out from under the rocker on the intake valve on the rear cylinder. When i compressed the valve to reinstall it found that the valve was a little sticky. Whatever the cause it is now fixed and runs loads better. I cleaned the carb once again for good measure. Thanks for the help again, guys!

Glad I could help
From my experience, this is caused by the valve being a bit sticky. The valve does not return fast enough and the Push Rod skips out from under the Rocker. It's NOT fixed, there will still be contamination inside the valve guide. I would add about a half liter of ATF to your next full tank of fuel. ATF has additives in it that will help remove the contamination. Your engine will smoke a bit for that tank, but will be fine.
The initial cause of the problem was probably bad fuel (Old), and possibly compounded by a bit of water in the gas.

RD

[Frymechanic]

So if any one was interested I fixed the problem with the kawi today. With a big thanks to RockDoctor I pulled the valve cover and found not a bent rod but a misplaced rod. somehow it had come out from under the rocker on the intake valve on the rear cylinder. When i compressed the valve to reinstall it found that the valve was a little sticky. Whatever the cause it is now fixed and runs loads better. I cleaned the carb once again for good measure. Thanks for the help again, guys!

[Frymechanic]

OK cool, thanks! Ill give it a go here in the next couple days and post the results. I plan on posting pics of the Argo, attex and coot and maybe a video.

[Rock Doctor]

.010"

And, you have obviously done this before, but it's not a bad referance:

RD

[Frymechanic]

Yeah, its a strange problem. I know there is no water in the fuel cause the tank was empty and i put fresh fuel in. I then let it idle for like a half hour to an hour as it idles just fine except for it loading up and smoking but when trying to rev it up, studders on its way up in RPMs. After shuting it off i pulled the plugs and the front one dry and looks like perfect burn, while the rear is soaked and looks like someone poured a cup of fuel right in the cylinder. Now the plugs are new and have like less than 5hrs on them and after checking while they were out I made sure there was good spark. So like you said i think there is crap in the carb again and going to change the plugs again. I was thinking of checking the valve clearance and i guess now check for bent rods. Do you happen to know what the clearance should be? Thanks!

[Rock Doctor]

? Did you pull it and plug the hole with a bolt or ???

The current prob I'm having is that the rear cylinder is loading up at idle and has no power revved up and wont clear out. The last time i had this prob was 2 years ago and i rebuilt the carb with new gaskets and had to heavily cleaned the solenoid which was jammed with bad crystallized fuel. I also replaced the plugs and after those it ran perfectly. Now its up to its old tricks but seems different this time. Was curious if there were hidden issues that only experience could find and fix. So thank you both for the help!

I just clip off the pin, as John mentioned.
As per your current problem, I'm not an engine guy really, but I would try a few things:
Check valve clearance and make sure you don't have a bent pushrod.
Make sure there is no H2O in the fuel, and that the fuel is not old and stale
Replace your plugs, sometimes new ones are just junk.
Rebuild the carb again, it could have some gunk in it.

These are just thoughts, as I really have no idea what the problem is from sitting here on my "money maker"

RD

[JohnF]

... you disabled the backfire solenoid, How? Did you pull it and plug the hole with a bolt or ???

A bolt works and some just clip off the pin.

[Frymechanic]

Wow! THANK YOU Rock Doctor! That helps a bunch. I am curious about one thing though, you say you disabled the backfire solenoid, How? Did you pull it and plug the hole with a bolt or ???

The current prob I'm having is that the rear cylinder is loading up at idle and has no power revved up and wont clear out. The last time i had this prob was 2 years ago and i rebuilt the carb with new gaskets and had to heavily cleaned the solenoid which was jammed with bad crystallized fuel. I also replaced the plugs and after those it ran perfectly. Now its up to its old tricks but seems different this time. Was curious if there were hidden issues that only experience could find and fix. So thank you both for the help!

[Rock Doctor]

Here are a few issues that I've come across with the Kawi 20hp. Some are common and others have probably only ever happened to me, lol.

Electric fuel valve. It's not a valve, but I forgot it's name. Anyway, this thing is on the side of the carb, and when you shut off the engine, it blocks the fuel to the main jet. If it fails, and it will, you will not be able to get fuel to run. You could carry a spare, or get rid of it.......it's up to you. It prevents engine Run-on, and Backfires, I have all mine disabled, and notice no difference, but I try to allow the machines a minute to idle before shutting them down..

The springs on the carb linkages are cheap, I carry most of them as spares. I've broken or lost most of them at one time or another. Even the heavy one conecting the throttle linkage to the governor linkage. I had that one just up and break on me on day as I was driving across a lake. No spring, no throttle, big problem.

There is a short bushing under the carb linkage assembly, I've dropped that thing under the engine a couple times. Now i carry a spare.

Had a couple throttle cables break on me.

The 20 Kawi hates old fuel. And I mean it really hates old fuel. Causes the cylinder valves to stick, which in turn causes your Pushrods to bend. If your lucky, or catch it in time, you might just skip a pushrod out from under a rocker arm. Symptoms are similar to water in the fuel, sputtering, caughing, no power, no rpm. I always carry Fuel Conditioner, and if I know I am using old fuel (Like some that might have been sitting out at my cabin for a yr or more), I will add a bit of ATF to the fuel.
Spare Tappet Cover Gasket is good to have, if you have to work a Valve free.
I also have a spare pushrod, sometimes it's not easy to get them straightend just right when all you have is an axe and a rock to work with.

I've had a couple Fuel pumps fail when out in the bush, but managed to make a gravity feed system with a pop bottle and a bit of hose.

Always have the tools to rebuild the Carb with you. It's so easy for a little bit of crud/rubber to block your fuel flow.
Spare Float Bowl Gasket is handy.

I have to err on the side of caution, and bring quite a bit of gear with me on my excursions. Not because breakdowns are common, but because I am often many miles from any help. Couple that with having small kids with me, and I have to make sure that I can deal with most issues quickly.

Hope that helps

RD

[russriders]

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[Frymechanic]

Does anyone know any particular issues with the stock 20hp conquest motor? Like weak spots or maintenance problems? Maybe even carb or ignition issues? Was just curious as to anything to look for in it. Also any upgrades or problem solver parts to get for it?