jlo440 seems to not want to run

[Bazooo guy]

Did you have the impulse tube connected to the side fitting on this carb?



It looks like the power needle is missing on this one.


Heres more info.

http://www.vintagesnow.com/Carburetors_files/WDMaintenance.pdf

Try and close the hs needle and see if it continues to run with it closed.
A leak on the throttle shaft is not good...it will suck air.
You did replace the crank seals when rebuilt correct?

[chris lewis]

Hmmm...I guess you want me to check the crank seals.

Since I just rebuilt the engine and replaced both seals with brand new seals, polished the sealing surface on the flywheel and on the stator side, I assume (yes...joke away) that the seals would not be the issue.

What is the best way to check the seals. I have read that you seal the intake and exhaust port and then use the impulse line and pull a vacuum...is that correct?

Thanks
Chris

[Bazooo guy]

Yes ....or if you get it to run spray starting fluid at the seal behind the clutch and see if it revs up.
Spray the throttle shaft also to see if its leaking.
If you replaced the crank seals they should be ok.

[Bazooo guy]

Also the fitting on the intake flange (below your finger) is for a primer.....if its not connected it must be plugged.


Looks like you have a screw in it.
Use a rubber cap.

[chris lewis]

hi,
how did you get the little pictures into your posting?
i have been using the carb with the filter built onto it...not the one pictured...i just put thos photo in to show the two carbs i have.

the impulse line is mounted to the side line on the side of the diaphragm pump. i will take pictures and post.

re the seals, i used a brand new seal from richards relics on the stator side along with a new o ring where the fan housing slips into the engine block.
the output side where the torque converter and the starter ring gear was the difficult one to find. i bought that one from motion industries and it was dropped shipped from timken. it is a viton seal.

what is the best way to check the seals when it is in the machine and all the periphery are mounted up.



thanks

output side. the seal for the

[Bazooo guy]

To post a pic from your gallery copy (right click) the linked thumbnail below the pic and paste it into your post.
Can you see any fluid leaking from behind the clutch?
I would have bolted the engine to a skid and started it on the floor before installing it into the machine.
Did you try spraying starting fluid around all the gaskets and seals to see if the engine speed changes?

[chris lewis]

looks like bazoo guy was right..but first, .i did spray the start fluid at the flywheel side and it made no difference.
i did get it running by running the hs screw in all the way. i got a nice consistent idle...albeit fast...i ran the throttle screw out to reduce the speed.

so, what does it mean if the hs needle is run in and it runs?

as an aside, i did make an error earlier in this thread. i think that i said i was using the wda52 carb...that is not the case,. i have the wda4 carb on it.

thanks for the help...i am getting there!

chris
oh...i did not spray the cross shaft yet.. i was just stoked to get it running!

[chris lewis]

yeah. bolting it to a skid would have been the prudent thing to do.

[Bazooo guy]

The inlet needle could be stuck open or not closing all the way.
Try and set the idle screw so it idles and gets warm.
Then open the hs 1/2 turn and let it run at idle for a couple minutes.
Slowly give it throttle as you open the hs another 1/2 turn and see if it tries to stall.
If it stalls pull the plugs and look at them to see if they are wet.

And open the garage door when its running.

[chris lewis]

Garage door>>>yeah...and how...this thing blows some smoke.

I mixed it 50:1...I read that in the manual. What type of oil do you guys use? I mixed MOTUL brand...it is what I use in my 57 vespa.

What is the Idle RPM supposed to be?

How do you set the idle jet needle? Turn it in until it bogs down, turn it out until it starts to sputter and then split the difference?

When I got it running, I gave it some throttle and it responded well without bogging.

When I pulled hte carb apart last time, I reset that little metal fulcrum plate that holds the inlet needle in place...based onthe .010 (I think) measurement ..How can you set that needle height by bending that fulcrum mechanism if it is already bent?

Thanks
Chris

[Bazooo guy]

My 2 stroke idles at 1800 to 2000 rpm and revs to 7000 +
Any less and it starts to foul the plugs.
It wont be anything like your vespa
It shouldnt smoke after the rebuild.(unless theres too much oil in your mix) and thats ok
for the first tank.
If the inlet needle isnt seating it will run rich and spit fuel and smoke out the exhaust.

[Bazooo guy]

Use a good quality oil.
Page 1 of this link has your answers.

http://www.vintagesnow.com/Carburetors_files/WDMaintenance.pdf

[chris lewis]

Hi all,Thanks to everyone for their input. I finally got the engine running today..and it does idle fast. I need to hook up a tach to see what it is idling at but 1700 is probably realistic.

THe fluid in the transmission was low so I topped it off with Dexron Mercron and some limited slip stuff. I did not change all of the fluid.

I drove it for the first time. NOW...I have new questions and will be posting in Transmission section...BUT...the key is that I drove it...after 3 years of messing around with it.

The engine runs fine...starting it is a bit frustrating...I think that hte needle/seat is funky as Mr Bazoo mentioned.
It is a hoot to drive but I think now I have transmission issues.

Thanks for all of the help!

Chris

[Bazooo guy]

Great that its running.
Pull the plugs after you drive it and post us pics.
Where did you end up setting the hs needle?

[chris lewis]

Hi bazoo,
I need to get one new plug. I had one that would not spark (this was about a week or so ago when I found that out...so I used a spare one I had). I will run and take pics of the plugs next time.

The HS needle is set at about 1/2 turn. That is probably too lean but if I open it too much, it would not like to idle...so there is something wonky in the carb I think. I did note that the needle is NOT bent...but when I screw it in, it does not center in the brass seat...it kind of sits to the side...and if I turn it in and out, it stays to the side (also indicating that the needle itself is not bent...so the carb threads seem to be tapped non concentric to the bore of the brass seat...if that makes sense??

The Idle needle is out about 1.5 turns

It runs like a scalded dog..and is kind of loud...now I know why people go to 4 stroke.

Quick question: On the MAX, the hose from the exhaust collector to the muffler is a helical flat thing..like what they use on your car when they "replace" your catylitic converter...
ANyway, it goes through the polypro body...so the question is...where do I find the gasket that seals that gap around the exhaust tube

Thanks again!!!WOOHOO