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Tires slipping on rims

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  • #16
    I have been using clear gutter sealant available at Lowe's or Home Depot. Comes in a caulking tube. Sticks to anything and its flexible and cheap. make sure the tires and rims are clean and dry.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by liflod View Post
      I have been using clear gutter sealant available at Lowe's or Home Depot. Comes in a caulking tube. Sticks to anything and its flexible and cheap. make sure the tires and rims are clean and dry.
      Hey Lance, does it dry solid, or stay sticky? Trebmaster uses silicone, but it dries solid, so I think the hi-tach is a better choice.

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      • #18
        I used Xtra Seal Bead Sealer and it cures solid. Feels like a black siliconized caulk. I think it sticks a tiny bit but really fills voids to make its seal. I do my tires by hand and can still break these beads.

        The Permatex High-tack is crazy sticky. (Imagine that! ) I sat the can on a piece of plastic as I was using it and drips and strings were all over it. Then I went and did that bit of super tape slapstick schtick and had that piece of plastic stuck to everything in the garage and me and ...

        As thebuggyman1 said, it doesn't get solid. I have high hopes for a winter where I put the tracks on and don't have to take them off until I no longer need them.

        I do have modern Argo beadlock rims. My tires are "BKT AT108 ATV Tire 22x11.00-8" and are super knobby which I think acts against me here, creating a higher coefficient of friction between the track and tire than tire and wheel. These were nearly new tires when I bought the machine. There was also evidence that the previous owner spun at least a couple of the tires. I suspect that once a tire has spun a bunch, like inside a track, that it becomes easier for that tire to spin as I would expect the bead shape/diameter changes. I do plan on new wheels/tire/tracks in a matched set - but not this year.

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        • #19
          I bought a set of custom made bead lock kits from: https://www.chassisunlimited.com/products/tires-wheels-racing/weld-on-bead-locks.html
          Made custom for my MAX 4 wheels (12"). Kits look great and will post pics when I start that part of the project. I intend on running inner tubes and the bead locks to allow me to run any pressure I want.


          Thanks,
          Gary

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          • #20
            I had some issues a few years ago with some slippage,found out that there was a batch of rims that were built for Argo that where out of spec a bit,changed out the set and never had a problem,mind you the Argo rim and the Argo OEM tire,the last rims that I beaded up for my Avenger as well as the replacement tires and rims for my Attex where tough as can be to get up over the factory "beadlock"to the point of getting scary that the tire might explode,I cant imagine them ever slipping,JMO.NCT
            Last edited by North Country Tough; 11-20-2012, 05:52 PM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by North Country Tough View Post
              I had some issues a few years ago with some slippage,found out that there was a batch of rims that were built for Argo that where out of spec a bit,changed out the set and never had a problem,mind you the Argo rim and the Argo OEM tire,the last rims that I beaded up for my Avenger as wel as the replacement tires and rims for my Attex where tough as can be to get up over the factory "beadlock"to the point of getting scary that the tire might explode,I cant imagine them ever slipping,JMO.NCT
              I noticed this on my buddies Avenger. I was driving through a thick section of trail, couldn't see what I was doing, and drove right into a tree. Blew the front tire right off the rim.... Buddy just about flew out of the machine. Once I had assured myself that he was not going to backhand me, we got to work getting the tire back together. Had to pull the tire off and tighten a ratchet strap around it to get the beads to start, then we waited for the beads to pop. It took a long time, and every once in a bit we would take a step back in anticipation of the tire blowing off the rim.

              RD

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              • #22
                I have the OEM wheels and 25x12-9 Rawhide lll"s on my 2001 Conquest. A couple of the wheel/tire combo's will very easily seat the bead at 10-12 PSI,barely even "pop",must pay attention when servicing these ones.I have at least 2 combos that,like NCT say's,are just plain scary.I place these behind the garage to seat the beads and when they pop,there is no mistaking what just occurred.
                Funny part is,I don't seem to have much more difficulty de-rimming these on the trail as I do the ones that seat easier,lol.

                Joe.
                sigpic

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 2gnospam View Post
                  I bought a set of custom made bead lock kits from: https://www.chassisunlimited.com/products/tires-wheels-racing/weld-on-bead-locks.html
                  Made custom for my MAX 4 wheels (12"). Kits look great and will post pics when I start that part of the project. I intend on running inner tubes and the bead locks to allow me to run any pressure I want.

                  I was able to by a weld on kit of six for under $300. Are welding to stock MAX wheels.
                  Thanks,
                  Gary

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                  • #24
                    Hello RD.
                    Are you still using one of these recipes?

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                    • #25
                      An idea, put on tubes and to avoid rims slippeing tyre to brake the tube have some oil between the tire and tube (oil or something else slippery.
                      Might be a bad idea as the tire will really be slipping on the rim then ?

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                      • #26
                        So how did it go, any god advice

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                        • #27
                          Hi Midtveit,

                          I haven't slipped a tire since using permatex.

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