New Type of Tracks - Chanel Tracks

[Buzz]

now that is a damn good idea

[mightymaxIV]

What I did in my spare time while waiting for the tide to come in. Is I build some paddles for the chanel track.
Now my theory is Why would wants to have your ice cleats out past your tires. It puts a lot more stress on every thing. I would rather have the ice cleats under the tire. Puts the forces more in line with the tire.. Now as the snow gets softer the deeper the track will sink. And now the paddles will provide a lot more traction. And having the paddles on the inside and outside of the track it will provide equal force to the tire . Now I may be splitting hairs. But I have a excuse. Buzz said I am not getting older just better. Just like the rest of us trying to come up with something that best suites our own riding conditions.

[IMG][/IMG]

Wow Old Tucker, that is quite an innovation. I am sure it does the trick for helping you along in the snow but I am also thinking that this might aid you in swimming. If it ever thaws out up there perhaps you can give your new innovation a swim test and let us all know if it makes a difference or not.

[Old Tucker]

This may sound dumb but I have never had the conquest in a lake or river. We do not really have any swamps or any marshes around here. the country side is ether going up or down. Right now we are hopping it will snow about another 4 feet so we can get right up into the alpine. The route we have been working on need that much more snow to cover up all the darn road alder. Last winter by this time we had a good twelve feet of snow in there. This winter there is only about 3 to four feet.
I so dearly want to put a video together for you folks. But no one wants to go there with me.. And I do not have a helmet cam yet. I think I might Mickey mouse a mount for my handy cam. Or use good O DUCK TAPE.

The paddles would probably improve the swimming ability of the tracks a lot. I wanted to go with the rubber to add some flexibility to the paddle. That way there it can fold a little if you are climbing over a rock. The nice thing about a elevated track is you can put on a good size paddle if you need to without it hitting your tub.

[thorn]

What I did in my spare time while waiting for the tide to come in. Is I build some paddles for the chanel track.
Now my theory is Why would wants to have your ice cleats out past your tires. It puts a lot more stress on every thing. I would rather have the ice cleats under the tire. Puts the forces more in line with the tire.. Now as the snow gets softer the deeper the track will sink. And now the paddles will provide a lot more traction. And having the paddles on the inside and outside of the track it will provide equal force to the tire . Now I may be splitting hairs. But I have a excuse. Buzz said I am not getting older just better. Just like the rest of us trying to come up with something that best suites our own riding conditions.

[IMG][/IMG]

Nice wrench work O.T. I can't wait for a report. They are basically a shorter (and lighter) version of the paddles I have on my Supertracks and they work really well at paddling in the deep stuff (snow) and really pull the machine through the snow. The other attribute you had mentioned to me in using these on a elevated track, is that they don't interfere with the easy steering.

[thorn]

Everyone has been discussing the weights of the various tracks out there and I was shocked to see that the Chanel tracks were much lighter than any of them by quite a bit. The Escargos are in the 150s, the Adairs with winter kit are in the 150s, the Argo rubbers are in the 160s, and the Chanel's are in the 90s. The only info I could find on Argo Supertracks were a shipping weight of 224#, but that is with Argo axle and lug extenders so I am guestimating approx 100# for naked Supertracks on an 8x8. Mine are probably 110+ with my angle iron paddles.

I was assuming I was going to a much heavier track if I went with the Chanels vs the Supertracks. If I get the Chanels I might end up putting a winter kit on them and that would add another 25 #s maybe. Interesting...

[Buzz]

very good point on the weight thorn. One of many considerations, but an important one.

[Old Tucker]

Just one more thing to ponder over. When talking about the weight of tracks. Is half of the track is all ready on the ground, And the other half is on top of the tires. Now I may be splitting hairs here. But the biggest thing is the rolling resistance of the track that will rob HP. Now the rolling resistance will very considerable depending of the service it is on. Naturally if you are in mud or deep snow it will require a lot more HP to rotate the track then when you are on a hard surface.
Now if you are in water of course the weight is going to play into it a little.
Example My 18 inch wide tracks on the tucker came in at least 300 Lbs each and I could rotate them with very little effort. I could almost role the tucker forward by leaning on it. Now weight will also come into equation by how many PSI the complete unit puts onto the ground or snow. The lighter the PSI the better off you are. So going to a wider track, like a winter kit in snow will help the most. The nice thing about the elevated belt is the door is open to so many options you can use to increase your traction. With out having to worry about your tub.

[SHOTGUN]

Has anyone tried climbing on/out of ice with the channels yet, I seen a previuos post asking but did not find a reply. I am looking to get a argo for icefishing and am most interested in deep slush driving and crawling up onto ice, Wondering how the channels compare to escargos?

[Patenteux]

Hello
To the question back on the ice no problem running reverce I did a few times because I use my argo to trap, and I'm constantly on the ice of beaver dam.

[SHOTGUN]

Was the rig floating or had a base to push from?

[Patenteux]

When I exit the water there was 4 feet deep, the argo did not touch the bottom.

[Buzz]

backwards would be the way to do it. But very very difficult. Using chunks of break off or floating ice under the track makes it easier. But you gotta get the track crosser higher out of the water to stand a chance.

[Old Tucker]

Thats the problem with the argo, The front end is so heavy. Its hard to get it up out of the water.

[jjort]

I finally got everything I needed to install the tracks (except the hinges and I think I can get them later)
Spacers and track tuners fit perfectly.
How tight do you make the tracks?...If I jack the argo right up they sag quite a bit.
How many hinges do I need for a 4 inch rubber belt?.
What do you use to cut the belt? (box cutter?)
I am getting pretty excited to try these out

[Buzz]

The track length on that style should be such that you can almost work the two ends together by hand with the corner tires flat...in fact you usually can if you really work the slack out. But sometimes it takes a ratchet strap to make the last inch or so...or at least make it easier to hold the track position while you insert the hinge bolt.

That's all the tighter you need to be. Track sag isn't really looked at the same with this style track (in my opinion)....I've jacked them up in running position, and they've sagged a foot or better. I suppose you could shoot for 6 inches of sag....maybe 4 inches at the most. You want the belt to more or less "straighten out" w/o any super loose or wavy up and downs to it. When you lift up gently on the upper track belting, you want to feel just a slight tension. It doesnt have to be super tight. You can always put more air pressure in the corners if you want....or if you want more protection from skid-turning over ridges or whatever. Always put just a bit more in the rear tire than the front.
You'll need (16) individual pieces of Flexco 550's. Get the Flexco piloted bolts and nuts if you can (they are the best and center themselves to hold the hinge body on the belt the best). Otherwise use 1/4" bolts long enough go go through everything (even 1" is enough)...and insert them so the threads stick "toward the ground side."
Cut the belt with any sharp utility knife...or if you have longer runs to trim, score a line and use a sharp stiff filet knife with long strokes while you're pulling down and away on the trimmed piece.
Good luck and have fun!
Please post some videos when you have a chance.