For all you people running rubber tracks on your Argo. you need to try the Adair Argo track tuners. They are amazing. After three Argo's and 4000 miles of running rubber tracks, and replacing tons of drive train parts, I have finely purchased these tuners and what a difference on drvie train wind up. Steers easier, rolls easier, way more power, and quieter. In the long run, better on fuel. I have a 2010 750 HDI w/ the 20" RS Bulduc rubber tracks with metal guides.
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Originally posted by fcris View PostI don't understand how you overcome the offset these track turners cause in the wheel. It looks like the wheel would be offset out a few inches.
Will they fit a Mudd-Ox?
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Thanks, I understand now. I can see the track spacers on the axels.
Just to see what would happen, I removed the rear chains. There seemed to be much less stress on the machine. No clicking or bumping. Though I did have some tire slippage in the tracks when climbing very steep hills.
Aside from the Track Turners, are there any other options to reduce “wind-up”? I think the tires may make a difference in wind-up. Is there a better tire for tracks only? In other words, wind-up can be eliminated if the tires could cog directly with the track. Or it can be reduced, if the tire doesn’t grip in the reverse direction.
These Track Turners are made from trailer parts and they look heavy. Trailer Hub Assembly for 8" to 10" Wheels - 2,000-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - L44649 Bearings Dexter Trailer Hubs and Drums 8-259-5UC1
I think they’re a great idea. And the best part about them would be increasing the tire diameter to get the ends of the track up for better maneuverability. What I don’t understand is, the wind-up seems to occur between the front and back wheels because it’s harder for the tire to slip. So how do these track turners reduce wind-up?
With tracks, which chain adjusters do you see wear out the quickest?
Thanks,
Frank
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My rears wear the quickest (with all 4 drive axles connected- rubber tracks). It is virtually impossible to keep all tires the exact same diameter. I have not run tuners yet, but the way I see it, because the front/rear axles are essentially still "connected" via chains, potential "wind-up" still exists. The benefit is that the 2nd/3rd axles no longer contribute I think (guess) that they would add quite a bit of problem. Just the weight of the machine over the 2nd/3rd tires on the tracks causes a significant amount of friction. This can be multiplied depending on what the inside of your track surface looks like. While attention to air pressure and tire diameter of the 1st and Last axles remains important to eliminate as much remaining wind-up as possible, being able to adjust the middle axles without a penalty seems like a huge advantage. The avenger and mudd-ox already have the 1st and last axles elevated, so more air pressure in the center tires would only give more clearance under the front/rear tires. Less vehicle weight on the front/rear axles can only "help" in letting those tires slip a bit if needed, if possible. There is no way to reduce all wind up unless the diameters of the front/rear axles are "exactly" the same....so you're thinking is correct. Removing 2 of the 4 culprits and having the ability to "change" the center air pressure is what convinced me to give them a try. That, and all of the good reviews. Now a guy could save a "little" weight by welding the spindle to flat plate (like a wheel spacer) instead of the thick 5-spoke trailer hub, but the same thick trailer hub still gets used on the outside of the track tuner. I would think the "width" adjustment for the tuner is made on the back plate (that bolts to your machine) and then the spindle is welded to that. The trailer hub just slides on just like it would on a trailer axle. Adair has played around with the measurements...no doubt but a guy could certainly make a set if you were looking for something to play around with. My time is worth something, so I just emailed Tim to make me up a set...
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