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What Tracks for a 55hp@5500rpm 3 bearing per axle beast for swamps, steep rock?

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  • #31
    Got a pic? I think I pulled the beveled edge 1/8 inch back from the edge of the crossers... What is the order of the tires for diameter? How do I hook the track together on the Argo?
    Last edited by spookum; 01-25-2014, 02:51 AM.
    Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


    https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



    85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

    78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

    ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

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    • #32
      i'll go grab a pic right now

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      • #33
        here's a pic. The bevel is 45* outward, closest part is still outboard of vertical crosser-guide area
        Attached Files

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        • #34
          Originally posted by spookum View Post
          Got a pic? I think I pulled the beveled edge 1/8 inch back from the edge of the crossers... What is the order of the tires for diameter? How do I hook the track together on the Argo?

          missed the last part of your post, sorry about that!

          measure the circumfrence of all your tires @ 5 psi and index them just like argo recommends-
          -smallest in the front
          -largest on #2 axle
          -next largest #3 axle
          -next smallest #4 axle

          All that really matters is that the 4 corners are as close as you can get them. You want the rears to be slightly large than the front....even if it means just running a bit more air. The centers won't matter with tuners. I prefer to ultimately "run" all tires at about 5 psi so that they maintain shape and so the sidewalls move "up and away" from the belting when aired up to that level. Beveling the belting helps as well. You can run higher psi if you want but it's not necessary.
          It's best if you can block your machine up. Remove tire valves from the corner tires as they almost exclusively determine track tension. If you want to do the centers too go for it, but it's not needed. Work all the crossers and slack around the tires and bring the two ends together to get a rough idea if you have enough crossers installed on the belt, or too many. You should have to basically ratchet-strap the last inch or so to get the belting-length where you want it prior to inflating the tires. You can mark the belting (overlap the two ends if that helps) so you know where to cut it. Then you can trim another 1/2" or so (or whatever distance your hinge-bolt takes up in place of the belting). Then install a final crosser (or maybe remove or reposition one) so that you have the same basic tire-coverage at the end of your track . You can adjust the final crossers to make your hinge install look the best too. If you're using 4-inch centers, try not to end up with a gap of over 4 inches. Slightly bigger would be okay, but try to make it somewhat symmetrical. Another option is to use an "overlap" that is secured with vertical bolts that pass through both layers (both track ends). These bolts pass through these 2 layers..."between crossers". You could use the bolts of several crossers themselves to capture both layers, but it is more difficult and harder to install the track. If you use an over-lap that secures between crossers, you'll have one end that is short beyond the final crosser (top), and one end that is long beyond the final crosser (bottom). You can leave the bottom end long enough to through-bolt between 1 or even 2 sets of crossers, while the top end will only through-bolt between one set of crossers. I prefer the hinge for ease of use. Just make sure you position it slightly outboard so that the bolt head (acts as hinge pin) is recessed into the rubber far enough away so as to not rub the tire sidewall.
          Then start at one end and bevel the sidewall sides of each piece of belting. I use a sharp/stiff fillet knife so that you get a longer stroke and a firm grasp/leverage on the handle. Pull semi-hard "down and towards the middle" on the belting trim-strip with one hand while you slice with the other. Should be one continuous trim strip if you do it cleanly. Sharpen as necessary. 4 bevels one end to the other, then you're done! Hopefully that makes sense.
          Last edited by Buzz; 01-25-2014, 09:15 PM.

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          • #35
            That makes sense. Here more pics of the track close up.





            Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


            https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



            85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

            78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

            ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

            Comment


            • #36
              Well their on. I had to do a bit of custom cutting to my bearing extension. I hope to take it for a rods this weekend.
              Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


              https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



              85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

              78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

              ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

              Comment


              • #37
                can't wait to see them once the hinge is installed and they're tensioned up. Geo Geo Geo

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                • #38
                  Man.... This should be cool... I'm already scheming how to "add" two teeth to the output sprockets for more track speed lol.
                  Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


                  https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



                  85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

                  78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

                  ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Can i know what is the size and make of your tires..thanks

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