track tuners??

[old farmer]

can anyone please explain what is a track tuner and what does it do when i bought this 6x6 argo in feb.the track were on it great in snow took off tracks and cabjust what i want for summer if it snows here i will put the tracks and cab back on do i need tuners ??p.s i got the licence and the insurence finely sure was fun

[philipatmaxfour]

can anyone please explain what is a track tuner and what does it do when i bought this 6x6 argo in feb.the track were on it great in snow took off tracks and cabjust what i want for summer if it snows here i will put the tracks and cab back on do i need tuners ??p.s i got the licence and the insurence finely sure was fun

No you don't Need track tuners but some people like them. Some don't. They are a spacer that slips and does not send power to the wheel so that wheel cannot add to chain windup. I think they are only installed on the center wheels. Most people who measure the circumference of each wheel and install them according to the owners manual with the recommended air pressure do not seem to have chain windup problems, but if you do there is not much doubt that track tuners will help.

[Finn]

It is my understanding it depends on the type of track you have. For the tracks where the outer surface or tread of the tire rides on the belting of the track that holds the track together, also similar to plastic Argo tracks, you should not need track tuners. For tracks similar to Chanel Tracks, or Escargo tracks where the belting is attached to the cross bars and the belting holding the track together runs along the side of the tire, track tuners are recommended. Because the belting is running along side the tire on these style tracks the track is hinging at that different diameter where the belting runs along side and not on the outer surface or tread of the tire. This effectively changes the diameter of the tire the track hinges around. The center tires are not subject to this difference in diameter because the track is not hinging as it passes the center tires. The center tires are running on their outer surface or tread against the cross bars, not the belting. This difference in effective diameter causes the drive chains to bind or wind up.

Track tuners are made to replace the wheel spacers on the center tires. Wheel spacers are installed to move the wheels away from the body for track installation. Tuners are wheel spacers with bearings in them so no power is added to the wheel. The tuner/wheel spins freely making the center wheels into idler wheels that travels whatever speed the track is passing over it. This prevents chain windup or binding.

[Buzz]

with proper tire indexing, you don't have to use tuners on any track style because you are creating a situation where the center tires "overdrive" the track that they are riding on. They already do this on elevated-belt tracks, but you still need to size/position them accordingly as they all transfer power to each other. Different tracks have differing levels of this "overdriving" that has to happen, but they all experience it. It wastes power. More noticeable at higher speeds as the clutches cannot shift out completely because they are adjusting for the load required to slip the center tires.
If you want to run a wide track and are going to use spacers anyway...I advise using the tuners. If you're not going to run spacers, then don't use the tuners. Just make sure you index your tires properly.
In this fashion, chains are not going to wind up, bind, or explode. You're just forced to slip the center tires...first...before the track will drive. It's additional load, just like your machine encounters when climbing a hill or performing a turn. The clutches adjust for load and all is well. The tuners simply reduce load so that it is not present during otherwise "easy" driving situations....flat ground and higher speeds over easy terrain. Your clutches will still adjust for load over difficult terrain.
Anytime you can reduce additional load on center axles/bearings/chains, it's a good thing.

[john swenson]

buzz, could you please explain '' proper tire indexing'' for tracks. is it different for each machine and style of tracks ? i have the adairs on my max 2. thanks johnboy va.

[Buzz]

no prob johnboy va. The front tire will determine the track speed. The key is for all but the front tire to "overdrive" the track slightly so that the chains stay tensioned on the correct side (opposite the tensioners) in the forward direction. You have to figure that 90+ percent of your operation is going to be in the forward direction. You only go reverse when needed so some additional, temporary load on the tensioners is probably okay.
The factory imperfection in tire circumfrence (when mounted and operational @ 5 psi for example) means that the the larger tires in the batch will cover a bit more distance than the smaller tires when their axle rotates 360 degrees. All axles have a fixed rotational speed as their sprockets are in fact very consistent. The difference comes into play where the tire treads meet the track surface. This is where the friction or load has to be overcome, or scrubbed out.
So what you want is for certain tires to overdrive the track slightly so that the correct side of that chain (that transfers power to another axle) stays tight on the correct side. Certain tires have to perform this function slightly more or slightly less than others, depending on which axle transfers and which axle robs power to/from one another, and where the tensioners are located. What you don't want is incorrect placement of tires so that the track moving underneath forces the tire treads (and therefore the axle) to rotate faster than the chains inside the machine are attempting to drive the axle.
Frequently we'll see the center axles overdrive the track the most. Track tuners elminate this part, but in the end you will always lose a little power to tire tread "overdriving" because the front and rear tires are not perfect, and the rear tire will have to slightly overdrive the track speed moving under/around it. If you can utilize an open grouser track style that makes/breaks contact with the tire tread or that has adjustable grousers, you can more easily allow the rear tire to scrub out this difference.
Our machines typically use a driven or "idler" axle of some type that provides power to all axles...either to the front or rear of this main drive axle. The axle to the front will see the "bottom" of its chain get tight when power is transferred to it. The axle or axles to the rear will see the "top" of their chains get tight. Now you can see why the tensioners are positioned where they are.
I can only recommend indexing in the normal fashion as per the manufacturer, and what I've been practicing. I prefer to use track tuners on center axles. I then position #1 axle with a tire that is slightly smaller the "rear" axle. Hope that helps. I can never remember if I covered everything I may have said before Track tuners are good.

[john swenson]

thanks buzz, good explaining. i have'nt noticed any chain windup in my situation but was just wanting to be sure. the max 2 adair tracks use the hard plastic ''grousers '', connected with the metal plates. no rubber belting. the treads can actually slide forward and back allittle on those connectors. the treads are slick and the tires are not an aggresive tread. maybe adair designed them this way to help lessen any windup. also with the mod i did on mine i am using the ''floating tensioners'' which have the hard plastic block on each side of the chain. after 3 days at busco everything with the tracks were still good. thanks again. j.b.

[philipatmaxfour]

track tuners

Buzz, nice job. Chain windup has never been explained better.