who's in whose camp 
you have to make sure the chains are loose (at the very least tensioners are released) and that none of the tires/axles have rotated and tightened up the chains...when you check bearings. Just a simple wiggle of the axle is not going to reveal whether or not bearings have play. The chains have got to be super loose.
Wheel spacers do move the centerline of the tire out a bit, and this does add a little bit of length to the "lever" (axle). But, that is not where the weak point is...not even close. That's what factory bearing extensions are for, and it's also why a factory-width (2.5") spacer is completely fine. Using a larger wheel spacer is not necessary. A narrow track doesn't need a spacer because it's narrow, but provides less floatation and performance in some conditions. In other conditions, extra width isn't needed.
A best situation is when the extra performance of a wide track can be obtained without having to experience the typical side-effects of a wide track that touches the ground over it's entire width...requires more power and tight track tension...and that has guides that can be manipulated on uneven terrain.
You know my preferance for the conditions where I live. I'll leave it at that.
I said it before - the primary wear/n/tear item is the hub flange, because in using a wheel spacer you're simple extending the axle a bit, and adding a bolted-together junction at that point that has to carry weight. It's better if you have an upgraded HD axle with heavier flange and a quality wheel spacer, but more importantly, you need to avoid a track being TIGHT. A track that needs to be tight to stay on adds a different kind of stress to the frame. That's as bad as anything not to mention unreliable- if you want to talk about field reliability. I'm well aware of why some would want to bash a wheel spacer, especially if they prefer a narrow track. I guess it would be easy for the same person to argue against 4-wheel drive on a truck, or studded tires in the winter because they're not really needed and would require additional cost and more "parts."

you have to make sure the chains are loose (at the very least tensioners are released) and that none of the tires/axles have rotated and tightened up the chains...when you check bearings. Just a simple wiggle of the axle is not going to reveal whether or not bearings have play. The chains have got to be super loose.
Wheel spacers do move the centerline of the tire out a bit, and this does add a little bit of length to the "lever" (axle). But, that is not where the weak point is...not even close. That's what factory bearing extensions are for, and it's also why a factory-width (2.5") spacer is completely fine. Using a larger wheel spacer is not necessary. A narrow track doesn't need a spacer because it's narrow, but provides less floatation and performance in some conditions. In other conditions, extra width isn't needed.
A best situation is when the extra performance of a wide track can be obtained without having to experience the typical side-effects of a wide track that touches the ground over it's entire width...requires more power and tight track tension...and that has guides that can be manipulated on uneven terrain.
You know my preferance for the conditions where I live. I'll leave it at that.
I said it before - the primary wear/n/tear item is the hub flange, because in using a wheel spacer you're simple extending the axle a bit, and adding a bolted-together junction at that point that has to carry weight. It's better if you have an upgraded HD axle with heavier flange and a quality wheel spacer, but more importantly, you need to avoid a track being TIGHT. A track that needs to be tight to stay on adds a different kind of stress to the frame. That's as bad as anything not to mention unreliable- if you want to talk about field reliability. I'm well aware of why some would want to bash a wheel spacer, especially if they prefer a narrow track. I guess it would be easy for the same person to argue against 4-wheel drive on a truck, or studded tires in the winter because they're not really needed and would require additional cost and more "parts."
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