Diy bearing cages?

[Dw89xj]

As some of you know, I picked up a 2 stroke max ii project, what started as a simple engine swap to 4 stroke and some tub repairs has basically turned into a full on resto-mod, if that's the right term? After ordering bearings, bushings, chains, a fuse panel, stuff to complete rewiring, a few tools, a new engine, clutch and a few other odds and ends. The thought hit me, this machine is being totally torn apart anyway, it needs a frame repair and I want to add some gussets and bracing, but, my thought was, bearing cages. What better time than when I'm putting it back together instead of pulling all the axles again later? Am I correct in thinking the cages are as simple as a piece of 4-6" long pipe or tube with an inner flange welded to each end? Then just bolt it together like I would for a bearing swap but twice per axle? I guess a 45° zerk for the inside bearing would be needed to clear the pipe or maybe just extend a line out to the end of the cage then both zerks are protected by the wheel? Or can I just use an outer flange as an inner and the zerk be inside the tub for the "inner" bearing? Hopefully this isn't too confusing, it kind of confuses me after reading it.

[tbone9]

Not confusing at all. Look under the Max column and look for a thread I started called Enclosed bearing cages. They have been working great and I'd be happy to help you with any questions.

[Dw89xj]

Not confusing at all. Look under the Max column and look for a thread I started called Enclosed bearing cages. They have been working great and I'd be happy to help you with any questions.

That's pretty much exactly what I've been thinking of, after reading and reading it seems easiest and I can get my buddy to weld them if I wanted. How well are the ones that aren't welded holding up? Do they seem to be doing their job pretty well or do they have some flex? I can't decide if I should just use one long set of bolts or two sets of shorter ones? I have a little while to mull it over but trying to get set on a design that is strong and affordable.

[tbone9]

I wouldn't waste time welding them. In fact the ones that aren't welded are in the machine I use for fishing. No leaks at all. There's no flex either. Plus they're way easier to put together. I made the tubes at 2" long to add support without cantelevering it out there too far, since I used through bolts.

[Dw89xj]

I wouldn't waste time welding them. In fact the ones that aren't welded are in the machine I use for fishing. No leaks at all. There's no flex either. Plus they're way easier to put together. I made the tubes at 2" long to add support without cantelevering it out there too far, since I used through bolts.

Do you run tracks with them at all? I'm planning to eventually build some tracks.

[tbone9]

No I don't. I've got factory cages on the one with tracks which I believe are stronger due to the fact there's two sets of short bolts holding them on. What I don't like about them is both bearings are exposed to the elements and they will all leak eventually.

[Dw89xj]

No I don't. I've got factory cages on the one with tracks which I believe are stronger due to the fact there's two sets of short bolts holding them on. What I don't like about them is both bearings are exposed to the elements and they will all leak eventually.

Yeah I like the idea of it being all sealed up, I'm going to try to make something, I hope whatever I come up with will handle the extra stress of tracks.

[tbone9]

They have withstood "16 wide tires with 3" spacers. And I'm not exactly easy on it.

[Dw89xj]

[QUOTE=tbone9;216951]They have withstood "16 wide tires with 3" spacers. And I'm not exactly easy on it.[/QUOT

I'm not set on a track design yet but 15" wide snow mobile track is one I've been thinking about. We don't get alot of snow anymore but in case we do I want tracks to get around in it.