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  • tires slip in tracks

    my max 2 highboy tracks have been modified to fit 25'' tires now. the grousers are connected with 2 , 2'' rubber belting bolted thru the grousers on the inside ( tire side ) i noticed the other day in the 5'' wet snow that in some turns the drive tires would slip in the tracks . front chains are off , rear and middle tires drive . o.k. going straight and large turns. thinking of putting some perforated metal strips on the grousers or running some hex head screws in them for the tires to bite . i don't want to run the tracks real tight . maybe putting the front chains back would help . any ideas.. thanks , johnboy va.

  • #2
    My snow tracks need to run on the tight side to keep from slipping.
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    • #3
      I had the same problem with my Max IV with factory tracks. I increased the air pressure by 2.5lbs a tire and it fixed it.No problems since .

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      • #4
        i'm wondering if slipping can also depend on the type of tread pattern of the tires ? some may grip the track better . j.b.

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        • #5
          I run knobbies on my tracks.
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          • #6
            thanks guys..thats what i had before on the original adair shackle tracks for max 2's . but now with 25 '' mud style tires i can see the grip is not as good . i thought i saw recent on here where someone else with tires slipping just did the screws in the urethane grousers and it did help . a hex head should'nt hurt the tire tread i don't think. j.b.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by john swenson View Post
              thanks guys..thats what i had before on the original adair shackle tracks for max 2's . but now with 25 '' mud style tires i can see the grip is not as good . i thought i saw recent on here where someone else with tires slipping just did the screws in the urethane grousers and it did help . a hex head should'nt hurt the tire tread i don't think. j.b.
              John I would first put the chains back on, wind up should not occur with your style track.
              sigpic

              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
              Joe Camel never does that.

              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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              • #8
                yup, gotta have corners driving to stop slipping if climbing, muddy/icy/wet track or track gets loose. Even then you might have to tighten track (add air to corner tires). Certain track styles require more air to drive track reliably. All tracks cause windup (resistance to axles turning or impoper loading of chains when certain axles do turn) from incorrect tire placement. You cant eliminate it unless your tire circumfrence is and stays perfect. You have to find the right balance between driving track reliably and having too much tension (fight windup). Different tracks tolerate different anounts of track tension considering these two things. If you disconnect a corner axle then you’ll definitely have to run the track fairly tight. Adding traction to the inside might allow you to run with less tension (and still disconnect a corner) but I get nervous anytime the tire is too locked in to the track. Ideal set up is when the tire hooks up most of the time but is able to overdrive the track briefly as needed (but not so loose that it slips continually if working the machine hard). I aim to get the track belting to just “straighten out” with no saginess along the top

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Buzz View Post
                  yup, gotta have corners driving to stop slipping if climbing, muddy/icy/wet track or track gets loose. Even then you might have to tighten track (add air to corner tires). Certain track styles require more air to drive track reliably. All tracks cause windup (resistance to axles turning or impoper loading of chains when certain axles do turn) from incorrect tire placement. You cant eliminate it unless your tire circumfrence is and stays perfect. You have to find the right balance between driving track reliably and having too much tension (fight windup). Different tracks tolerate different anounts of track tension considering these two things. If you disconnect a corner axle then you’ll definitely have to run the track fairly tight. Adding traction to the inside might allow you to run with less tension (and still disconnect a corner) but I get nervous anytime the tire is too locked in to the track. Ideal set up is when the tire hooks up most of the time but is able to overdrive the track briefly as needed (but not so loose that it slips continually if working the machine hard). I aim to get the track belting to just “straighten out” with no saginess along the top
                  Buzz, Adairs on MaxII. http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/memb...g-service.html this may be version 1 of undercarriage in picture
                  Last edited by ARGOJIM; 01-13-2020, 10:00 PM.
                  sigpic

                  My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                  Joe Camel never does that.

                  Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    that was some bad mud jim ! i've always run my tracks with all wheels pulling and tracks not super tight . in most cases i have'nt had any slipping issues except a few times at busco in some really deep , gooey mud when they just would'nt grab . and i don't remember chain windup being a issue. i think i just saw on hear awhile back that the talk about not needing front chains with tracks , but i see it depends on each machine and the style tracks being run . i will put them back on and do some more testing including tighter tracks .... thanks for the input and knowledge . i can see on my max now that with the front chains off , really only the rear tires are doing most of the pulling . the center one only grabs on the bottom of the tire and not that much . need the track wrapped around fronts and rears to get good grip . j.b.

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                    • #11
                      Slip

                      JohnBoy, AJ found the one photo of you pulling out BIG GREENIE, Oh well we all get stuck. My observation is after watching you so many times at BB is that when you go threw that nasty thick mud your tires just spin inside your tracks. My thinking is Air the tires up more and take a link out of the tracks and make them tighter. The worse that can happen is that doesn’t work. One last thing I agree with AJ, put those chains back on. If that doesn’t work Scott /John will always pull you out. Maybe Ruth will buy you a brand new toy for 2020.

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                      • #12
                        deedee...your the man!! i agee , i will put the front chains back on and tighten up the tracks some . i've always run them somewhat loose . i don't see a new machine yet in my garage , but there are always some good used ones on here . i can't even put a price on the one of a kind max 2 highboy . j.b.

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                        • #13
                          I agree with Ralph and the others, if you air up your tries, and maybe shorten the tracks legnth it should pull very tight to where the tires don't slip. Hope you are dong good Johnboy, have you gotten much snow? We haven't had anything but lots of rain.

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                          • #14
                            hey buddy ...i got the front chains back on but may wait to put tracks back on when we have another snow coming . we had a nice 5'' that was fun to zip around in even though i could have done fine without the tracks . i will tighten them up with no air in the fronts and backs .. add air as needed for a good fit . later , j.b.

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                            • #15
                              friends ...put the front chains back on and tightened up the tracks . runs like a champ and does seem to turn easier . if i need to tighten some more i can adjust my front and rear axles too ( that adjusts the chains also ). or more air , running just 4 lbs. now . all i need next is a good 12'' snow . johnboy

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