trying to learn what is good and bad about tire characteristics

[azz7772]

hi all as you all know i am pretty green to this hobby but i am learning and i am just wondering all the different thoughts and theories you all have on what makes a good tire and what doesn't? i know its all out there when you read all the posts but it would be nice to have one spot where a newby like me can compare everyones theories on tires. I like the agressive tread pattern for looks and ability but will too much grip shorten the life span of the bearing when turning ect.

[mudNmallards]

Tires are not really my area of expertise except in this one area. When I manage a fleet of rolling stock at remote sites I get premature failures a lot. (In environments I work in, most tires get damaged or destroyed long before they have a chance to wear out but some of them get eaten to the cord by going over rocks and gravel we use for dust control) As a result of managing them I wind up having to process the warranty claims and tire manufacturers love to find ways to void warranties and not reimburse me. I’ll share what I have had to learn to consider when coming up with the specifications in relation to the vehicle usage criteria for major purchases. This is normally in the sidewall information. (not including the normal stuff like recommended inflations etc that everybody knows)

Born on Date- tires have a date of manufacture on them and an expiration date (I have had manufacturers tell me all warranties from them end 2 years after the manufacture date) This can be an important consideration should a premature failure or an event of damage/injury and you find your way into court. I have learned that when purchasing tires ( or new vehicles with new tires) to make sure that the tires are as new as the vehicle or if not to make sure the tire manufacture date and serial number is recorded on the PO and I have a statement from the SELLER ( who may not be a manufacturers authorized rep for the tire manufacturer) that the SELLER will assume and absorb any warranty related failures for whatever period the vehicle/tire warranty is. (I never knew or thought a tire would have an expiration date but it only took me one time of having to eat a set of grader tires bought from a 3rd world vendor to make sure this is the first thing I look for now in tires)

Ply/load ratings- this is sidewall strength in relation to weight load. Some tires list plys and others have a load rating usually expressed in a letter designator. I learned the hard way ( the way I seem to learn most of my lessons) this rating criteria is based on a static vehicle weight on flat level concrete. When running over rocks, ditches or lower inflations and CORNERING UNDER LOAD ( which is the norm for heavy equipment) you need to get the highest rating available)

Wetability ( what is normally referred to as a “mud and snow”[M/S] rating)- I found out also that when most tires talk about “self cleaning” they are referring to the tread pattern flexing to clean out the tire. This isn’t exactly true. Tires with a M/S rating have chemicals that work to prevent water (free or frozen or mixed with dirt[ ie mud] from adhering to the skin of the tire. I have seen a measurable difference in performance in some of the environments I use equipment in and how it affects tire life.

Radial/Bias- bias tires are going the way of the dinosaur but radial tires always have better handling and traction capabilities as well as being generally stronger all around.

Effect on drive train- any tire properly sized for a given application will not have an adverse effect on the drive train but mixing different sizes, tread patterns or inflations can because the tired will work against each other and stress the system.

Tread patterns- like any other tool- the tire pattern should match the primary expected usage or desired performance

Just some information that not knowing or considering has cost me money over the years- hope some of you may find it beneficial.