T20 Rebuild Article

[Mike]

I just put up a new article on how to rebuild the Borg Warner / Skid Steer T20 transmission. It is very comprehensive. It is 10 pages long and contains over 110 photos! Hopefully I covered most aspects of the rebuild to where anyone not familiar with the T20 could rebuild it just by following the article.

The whole reason I rebuilt this T20 was due to a bad seal on the output shaft. It sucked to have to tear everything apart for one seal but at the same time it gave me a great excuse to take pictures and write this article.

If you are going to rebuild your T20 too, I highly recommend that you give Recreative Industries a call for the seal kit. They can get you exactly what you need for your application. In fact, I ordered the seal kit and then tore the transmission apart one Saturday to put it in. The following weekend was our Gulches ride so I wanted to get it back together that day.

Unfortunately when I got to the bearings one was bad so I had to order those on Monday. Recreatives 2nd day air'd them to me and I was continuing reassembly on Wednesday. I had everything together for that following Saturday ride. You can't ask for more than that.

Anyway, here is the link to the article or you can always find it in our how-to section: T20 Skid Steer Transmission Rebuild

Enjoy

[boncrshr]

Thanks Mike,

Very nice work, and just in time for me, as my seal kit came from Recreatives. Between JP and your article, there should not be any guesswork.

Quick question...my output bearings are an unknown quantity, but they seem ok, I have not noticed any play or odd noise coming from them, but should they be changed anyways if you are taking the trouble to pull the trans and change the seals?

[jpswift1]

Hey boncrshr, I haven't had any main bearings in a T-20 go bad, and since yours are good you could probably run them, but if you do go to get new ones, the only place that you can get them is RI. Whipper found out that Peer makes the bearings specifically for RI and they have a couple thousandths shaved off of the width of the race so the bearing races fit in the housing.

[Mike]

When I was in there I put my fingers in the inner race and rotated it back and forth to check it. Every now and then it could catch just a little. It may have probably been fine but it bothered me enough to replace them.

You can just check to make sure that they spin freely and don't "catch" anywhere.

[Blacklight_skid]

Mike,
I really like the information.
Thanks.

I need a few tips on adjustments but my rebuilt went pretty well.

[Mike]

Adjustment procedures are outlined in the manual on the last page: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...er-manual.html

budresiew posted this procedure in another thread:

Brake Band Adjustment – Late Model Method, without adjusting tool.

1 Remove steering return springs from the base of the brake channels (the channels on the front of the transmission). These are located under the battery.

2 Using a large standard screwdriver, pry against the backside of the brake channel and the transmission housing up at the top of the channel moving the brake channel away from the housing (the same as is would move as if you were pulling back on the steering lever). Measure the distance (at the brake band bolt) between the housing and the backside of the channel.

3 Repeat this procedure near the bottom of the same brake channel. Measure the distance at the bottom bolt.

4 The measurement should be equal. Turn in the top or bottom bolt (tightening the bands) until they are equal in measurement. (You will need to remove the hair/cotter pin retaining each bolt). Reinstall the hair/cotter pin or a rod to retain the bolt head in position before each measurement.

5 Repeat the procedure and take note of the measurement.

6 Now, while prying the BOTTOM of the channel away from the housing, measure the distance between the housing and the brake channel at the TOP bolt. This should be about 5/16” less than the measurement taken before. Basically, now that the bands are equal in travel (movement at the bolt in and out) you want the channel to rock back and forth about 5/16”.

7 Repeat this procedure and measure at the bottom bolt while prying the top of the channel away from the housing. Once again, you want 5/16” of travel.

8 Remove the hair/cotter pins and turn the top and/or bottom bolt(s) in or out until the 5/16” difference in measurements is obtained at both top and bottom bolts. Reinstall the hair/cotter pins before each measurement and upon completion.

9 Repeat for the other side of the transmission.

10 Reinstall the return springs.

Here's the original post: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/trans...-20-setup.html
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I have followed those instructions pasted here and had great results! Good luck.

[boncrshr]

Hey Mike,

Really good article so far. The only difficult part for me was removing the output shaft snap ring. I jinxed myself, when I got the left hand output shaft bearing out, it is definitely bad. Called Recreatives and they were closed...I even called a local bearing house just to see, and they could not match it. So I guess I am going to start re-assembly of the right side, and tackle the red clutch spring until I can reach Recreatives.

[Mike]

Yeah, the race on that bearing is ground .010" just for RI by Peer. You can find a bearing with the same I.D. and O.D. but the thickness will be .020 off. I tried