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**spookum** · 10-10-2012, 03:50 AM

yah, she went kablooie!!! unless thre is a keeper on the back side, it went BOOM. Try and compress it take the part on the right side an shove it over to the left (compressing your spring). If you get lucky, maybe there is a keeper in there? like a snap ring? Other wise i would be calling for a new "driven" aka "secondary" clutch..... Nice swanson speed square! Make sure you burn an inch to get a better measuremnt. the belt dont look *too* bad... i would keep it for a spare.

Also, the other one (or is it two) chunks of plastic of plastic that were on the cluch are MIA? Better find them down in the chains before they get caught in a chain and break a sproket or worse! . Also make sure that the alumanum of the cluch didnt gald (stick) to your break flange... that could raise heck with the breaks... hope it is just 3 new plastic "buttins" and a snap ring!!!

**trebmaster** · 10-10-2012, 06:36 AM

as far as the clutch rubbing on the break disk this is usually becouse the chains are not tightend properly. the adjustment is in the front and will move the whole trans and motor up. make these chains tight.

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 11:23 AM

Originally posted by spookum View Post

yah, she went kablooie!!! unless thre is a keeper on the back side, it went BOOM. Try and compress it take the part on the right side an shove it over to the left (compressing your spring). If you get lucky, maybe there is a keeper in there? like a snap ring? Other wise i would be calling for a new "driven" aka "secondary" clutch..... Nice swanson speed square! Make sure you burn an inch to get a better measuremnt. the belt dont look *too* bad... i would keep it for a spare.

Also, the other one (or is it two) chunks of plastic of plastic that were on the cluch are MIA? Better find them down in the chains before they get caught in a chain and break a sproket or worse! . Also make sure that the alumanum of the cluch didnt gald (stick) to your break flange... that could raise heck with the breaks... hope it is just 3 new plastic "buttins" and a snap ring!!!

Thanks for responding Spook! (I keep up with your thread on the motor swap, I love it) Ok, I'm not sure what a "keeper" is.. I will be back to the machine in about 8 hours, I'll compress her to see if I can understand what you mean. How can you tell from the pics that it went BOOM? lol So those two pieces missing (the wedge shaped pieces) are plastic? I hope it's just 3 new "buttins" and a snap ring too! I'll be looking around to better understand what the "snap ring" you're referring to is.

The square was the only thing in sight! lol

If I call and order a new driven clutch, is this a semi-easy install? I ordered a new drive-belt yesterday and I'm hoping it can catch a ride to Busco with someone going to see Ken Bost before they make the trip. I would call and buy a new clutch too if it's something we can install at Busco.

Originally posted by trebmaster View Post

as far as the clutch rubbing on the break disk this is usually becouse the chains are not tightend properly. the adjustment is in the front and will move the whole trans and motor up. make these chains tight.

It is possible they are not tightened properly. I did adjust the tension about a month ago and they're tight, but since I did it myself I would hardly call it "proper." lol

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 12:20 PM

I've been reading threads related to clutches to try and understand this beast a little better. Is it only a bolt on the outside of the clutches that release them? Can I remove in-tub? It looks like it'll be another late night working on this pig! I got a cigar for whoever comes to help.

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 12:36 PM

Here is the specific parts manual photo and descrip.

Number 33: the "shoe, cam" is what is missing I guess? Do they just snap in? Also, you mentioned the snap ring. Is that number 29, the "retaining ring"?

So I guess it looks like the retaining ring busted off or got messed up one way or another? Is that why the thing is pressing so hard against the brake disc? If that's the case it's all coming together now...

Will be attempting to remove both clutches this evening. Big fun!

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 01:03 PM

The local shop doesn't have the individual parts, the shoes and the retaining ring. They have the whole driven clutch, old part # 126-24, replaced by the new part # 127-197. For the low low price of $388.86?!

I am going to rip the thing apart this evening and get a better idea of what's going on.

In a doomsday scenario in which I have to replace the whole clutch, someone please refer me to an economical option to a $400 clutch!

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 02:02 PM

The parts manual I was referring to has two sections, I need to figure out which one applies to me.

Here is the parts for the other section of the manual. Just to make this more confusing.

**trebmaster** · 10-10-2012, 02:23 PM

the bigfoot came with a poor secondary clutch that is why it is a new part # mine hade to be replaced at 400Hrs

**JoeMeg** · 10-10-2012, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by gimmegreens336 View Post

Here is the specific parts manual photo and descrip.

Number 33: the "shoe, cam" is what is missing I guess? Do they just snap in? Also, you mentioned the snap ring. Is that number 29, the "retaining ring"?

So I guess it looks like the retaining ring busted off or got messed up one way or another? Is that why the thing is pressing so hard against the brake disc? If that's the case it's all coming together now...

Will be attempting to remove both clutches this evening. Big fun!

GG,yes the "cam shoes" just push in. Yes,#29 is the retaining that has appeared to have failed on your unit.

Joe

**JoeMeg** · 10-10-2012, 02:59 PM

O,and BTW.I would just loosen a bit,not completely remove the bolt holding the assy on the trans and see if there is still enough energy stored in the spring to "assist" pushing it off of the shaft.(little by little,of coarse)

Joe.

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 03:38 PM

Originally posted by JoeMeg View Post

O,and BTW.I would just loosen a bit,not completely remove the bolt holding the assy on the trans and see if there is still enough energy stored in the spring to "assist" pushing it off of the shaft.(little by little,of coarse)

Joe.

Thanks for the input. So just loosen the bolt, try and pry some, loosen the bolt a little more, try and pry some, etc etc? Little tips like this are exactly what I'm looking for because I have a hell of a time doing small things because I've never done them before. Sometimes I chalk it up as being "stuck" or whatever, when a mechanical friend of mine comes over and wrenches/wiggles/pries/etc until it comes loose.

I'm glad to have identified (potentially) the problem. What happens if I can rig the retainer, but can't find the shoes. Can I run the machine hard over the weekend (Busco ride) missing 2 of 3 shoes? My local vendor will have to order the parts, I will not have them in time for the weekend.

**spookum** · 10-10-2012, 04:00 PM

Originally posted by JoeMeg View Post

O,and BTW.I would just loosen a bit,not completely remove the bolt holding the assy on the trans and see if there is still enough energy stored in the spring to "assist" pushing it off of the shaft.(little by little,of coarse)

Joe.

Hi Joe! Im looking at part number 29.... That should be a common snap ring, avaiable at ANY auto parts house of your choice (FYI you MAY have to buy snap ring pliers...). BEFORE you pull the clutch, i would see if you can replace the plastic pieces and have a helper(or ratchet strap) compress the part number 37 and put a new snap ring in. Dont be afraid to buy 3 or 4 sizes of snap rings, and take back the ones that dont fit. Also, better start carrying a spare or two...

Plan "B"

yes you can remove the clutch without pulling the trans. you have your fire wall out already. there should be one bolt that holds the clutch on. Un screw that and pull the clucth off. If it is stubborn, hose it down with PB blaster, and then put a propane torch on the end of it. The luch will expand faster than the shaft and will aide in disasembly.

Can you buy a cheaper cluch?

Absolutly. Will the offset be correct? I have no idea... that and will the belt be the same wdith? No idea. You could throw a hail marry, mesure the diamater of the clutch, and the width of the belt. The shaft (double check this) should be a 1" diamaer with a 1/4 by 1/4 key.... You could also space the cluch out with plastic shims....

good luck!

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 04:33 PM

Originally posted by spookum View Post

Hi Joe! Im looking at part number 29.... That should be a common snap ring, avaiable at ANY auto parts house of your choice (FYI you MAY have to buy snap ring pliers...). BEFORE you pull the clutch, i would see if you can replace the plastic pieces and have a helper(or ratchet strap) compress the part number 37 and put a new snap ring in. Dont be afraid to buy 3 or 4 sizes of snap rings, and take back the ones that dont fit. Also, better start carrying a spare or two...

Plan "B"

yes you can remove the clutch without pulling the trans. you have your fire wall out already. there should be one bolt that holds the clutch on. Un screw that and pull the clucth off. If it is stubborn, hose it down with PB blaster, and then put a propane torch on the end of it. The luch will expand faster than the shaft and will aide in disasembly.

Can you buy a cheaper cluch?

Absolutly. Will the offset be correct? I have no idea... that and will the belt be the same wdith? No idea. You could throw a hail marry, mesure the diamater of the clutch, and the width of the belt. The shaft (double check this) should be a 1" diamaer with a 1/4 by 1/4 key.... You could also space the cluch out with plastic shims....

good luck!

+1 - great info thanks so much, can't wait to get home in 3 or 4 hours and get to work!

**gimmegreens336** · 10-10-2012, 06:10 PM

Picked these up at NAPA Auto Parts - neighbor has snap ring pliers I can use. I didn't even know where to start for sizes, he had 100 different sizes. I told him all I knew was people talked about the shaft being 1". Whether that has anything to do with the size of where the snap ring goes, I have no idea. I picked up a few he said would be close.

Thanks again for all the help. Will update later tonight!

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