Can anyone tell me the place where I can get the rebuild kit from? I was given a complete max 2 and pulled the t20 I can get the bearings locally but not the gaskets. also how do I tell if the bands need relining? just got it apart someone tried rebuilding it before and used copper gasket seal which is all over the inside. this will be replacing my current one so I can have a backup haven't checked the bands thoroughly yet since I still ave to clean it real good, been sitting covered in snow so there is a good amount of surface rust I will have to polish off.
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You would have to contact Recreative Industries for the rebuild kit. I assume you are talking about the output bearings on the T-20. I'd be very surprised if you where able to get them locally. RI has the bearing race specially ground for the application. Some members use grey gasket sealer instead of the paper gaskets between the case halves. As the T-20 is opened up unless the bands look new I'd just send them out to transmission crafters and have them re-lined. Not too pricey for piece of mind."Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"
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I am pretty sure you cannot get the bearings anywhere except RI. I tried this and the bearings from RI have been shaved, but have the same number as a standard bearing. In order for them standard bearing to work you will need to have it surface ground to make it thinner...
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You need to measure the metal backing then the total lining and backing. RI says that .015 inch of unburnt lining is good to go. New lining is between .030 and .036 depending on supplier. look for any places that the lining has pealed off to the glue or is burnt black. any of this will require relining.The drums can be refinished in a lathe by removing as much as .030 inch of material. Light rust can be refinished with grit cloth but should not be used across the band surface. A dull finish is better than very shiny so bands grab better. If they can be turned in a lathe cleaning the surfaces with 80grit paper gives a nice finish. I also deglaze the band material with green scotchbrite pads,just enough to take any shine off. This helps stop band chatter or t-20 groaning.Hope this helps out.
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Ok almost got it all back together hoping I did it right, only one question. So I couldn't get the secondary clutch off the shaft so I just pulled the whole shaft out while attached ( the last time doing a keyed clutch I broke a lot trying to get it off so...Lesson learned!) After taking it to the wire wheel to clean up I found a clip where the two meet on the back side and took it off and there was the other side of the key so I took a jab at trying to knock it free...NOGO. put it all back together and missed the part about putting the shaft in then the gears(I put both sides together then the shaft ), so I pulled it all back off and did like the instructions said and all back together to the point of the gaskets which ill do tomorrow. However the shaft still pulls right out. Did I miss something or once the center plate is on ,star gear in place and last circlip in place is this what holds it all in? Don't want to waste the gaskets putting it together to find out I missed something. I using cork for the gaskets and cutting them myself.
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hi
the transmission needs to have the original compressed paper gasket between the cases .
Why ? it has everything to do with end float of the output shaft and internal clearances
IMO The use of a sealant only to seal case halves would not be recomended due to the potential for band/ fluid contamination .The trans holds very little oil .
Donot use cork in this situation as the oil comes into contact with the gasket oil all the time and the fluid will eventually bleed thru the material . Cork is only good engine valve covers etc when treated with a GM cork sealer glue .
The main output bearings are very narrow and not easily found after market ,beaware .
tomo
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