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Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

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  • Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

    Changed T-20 transmission fluid and added limited slip 4 oz. I have just put a new engine in the machine also. When I started it up the machine it wanted to take off on me when I put it in forward. I had to hold back on the laterals to keep from moving forward. What would cause that and how do I fix it?
    "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

  • #2
    Those stupid springs that hold your laterals cause it. Remove springs and smelt them as to prevent anyone else from having to use them.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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    • #3
      Your belt is probably too tight. MaxIV's are a little tougher to adjust the belt tension than most other machines. With the engine sitting above the trans you have to add/remove shims/spacers to raise/lower the motor and change the belt tension.

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      • #4
        Drew am I going to have to push forward on the laterals to go forward if I remove the springs? Jim, I measured the height to the center of the shaft on the old engine and did the same with the new engine and they are exactly the same. I replaced the same spacers under the new engine, so I would be exactly the same as before. The belt sits just on the clutch with little or no friction. I'm wondering if when I changed the fluids it is running the way it is suppose to, but needs adjustment now.
        "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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        • #5
          If the belt is not too tight, your engine may be idling high which will engauge the clutch.
          Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by MaxRules View Post
            If the belt is not too tight, your engine may be idling high which will engauge the clutch.
            Second this, my machine did this until Msafi65 helped change out a bad rear bearing and reset it after pulling the motor.
            1995 Max IV , (#11582), 23 HP Vanguard, Custom aluminum bellyband/roll-bars with direct winch attachment. Recreatives track kit.
            Work in progress. Front windshield and canvas enclosure for winter use.

            Alaska AATV Owners Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/

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            • #7
              How snug or loose can the belt be up on the driven end (top end) when engine is off?
              "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by wheeler View Post
                How snug or loose can the belt be up on the driven end (top end) when engine is off?
                That's different with every machine and clutch set up. Besides, how would it be measured?
                ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

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                • #9
                  What I don't understand is after I changed the fluid the machine wants to crawl forward when put into gear. The idle speed is down the belt is not sitting directly on the top pulley enough where it would engage the clutch.. Everything has been put back exactly the same way. I have to believe the t-20 is working better than before. BUT, if I decide to take the springs off of the laterals, how can I get to them without pulling the engine again.
                  "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by wheeler View Post
                    BUT, if I decide to take the springs off of the laterals, how can I get to them without pulling the engine again.
                    The springs are attached to eye bolts. You tighten the springs by tightening a nut on the eye bolts. If you loosen those nuts, eventually you will get enough slack to remove the spring or the nut will come off the eye bolt. Either way, the springs will be easy to remove. Once you take a look at the springs, I'm sure you will see it.

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                    • #11
                      Hey Thanks Mike and just a question. By adjusting those springs thru the eyebolts could that be a way of stopping the forward movement in gear. Also what is your opinion about removing those springs?
                      "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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                      • #12
                        Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-11-2016, 07:31 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Pull the rear floor board, and or rear seat to get to the springs....but you shouldn't need to remove them. I'd try putting the machine in neutral, starting it, and at idle, try to stop the secondary from turning. DO NOT use your hand. Use a stick, broom handle, or something similar to add friction to the outside of the belt. It should only take light pressure to stop it, and that is normal. Even when the clutch is disengaged the belt has enough friction to spin the secondary. If it is hard to stop something IS wrong. It is very common for the machines to want to crawl forward at idle on hard level ground....add a little rolling resistance and it will stop.

                          I modified the seats in my MaxIV to flip up for easy access to the battery under the front seat and the trans adjustments behind the rear seat.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            I went from an 18 hp briggs to a 23 hp briggs. If you take the springs off of the laterals there is no tension right and you just move the laterals forward to get moving. I can take the belt and can slide it around with no tension on the clutch.
                            "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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                            • #15
                              Jim, is the secondary the lower clutch right off of the t-20? There goes my rookie mentality.
                              "I'm NOT stuck, I'm just temporarily stopped"

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