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Can't get cam off secondary clutch..help!

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  • #1

    Can't get cam off secondary clutch..help!

    2004 argo bigfoot driven clutch....removed snap ring that is suppose to hold cam on but there is a flanged brass bushing which is preventing cam from comming off. See attached pics.

    Can't figure out how to get bushing off..anyone have any ideas???

    Parts manual and service manual do not identify any bushing holding cam on so perhaps this is a non argo clutch.

    I"ve got a retaining ring that has partially come off the lower cam assembly which wobbles the inner shiver at high revs and likely is the source of my problem with the drive belt coming off every time I ride.

    This past weekend I had my belt completely invert on me (see pic) twice while driving on flat terrain at moderate speed. I"m already on my third belt this year!



    There's a flange on the bushing that is preventing the cam from coming off -I've pushed the cam down on the shaft so you can see the flange


    You can see the brass bushing in this shot in the shaft


    Inverted belt! Look how chewed up the belt is
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  • #2
    You're in a dangerous spot right now, if that hub shoots off " you could put your eye out" ( pun intended).
    Attempt to slightly turn the inner face and lock it in a vice without bending it, tap the hub inward and while holding it file the 2 burrs off the end then lightly sand as much of the shaft as possible. Spray it with penetrating oil and you should be able to tap it off. Use a soft hammer.

    NOTE; there is out ward and rotational pressure on that hub. Be careful.
    sigpic

    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

    Comment

    • #3
      I had the same problem...Done as ArgoJim said. Took some time and paitence...

      RD makes it look so easy...

      Argo Secondary Clutch - YouTube
      Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
      —Will Rogers

      Comment

      • #4
        I put a piece of all thread rod through these clutches with big washers on both sides. It can be used to press back together and when loosened it keeps clutch from killing you. These things can really come apart. I've done one in the field with two ropes through it. Took two people to get back together. Be safe good luck

        Comment

        • #5
          thanks for the info guys!

          I'll try your suggestions! I did dislodge the spring from the hole in the cam using a punch. I've tried everything on this thing including using a gear puller...tapping...and lots of PB Blaster!

          The part that puzzles me is the flange on the top of the shaft...I can move the cam up and down but not off the shaft cause of the flange. I've watched RD's video of disassembling the secondary and it appears the cam just slides off the shaft without any problem...if only I could be so lucky!

          Do I file the flange completely off the shaft? I just can't see how the cam can be forced over the flange bushing unless that bushing comes out of the shaft!

          Will tackle it again tonight as I hate to forkout $400 for a new clutch!

          Comment

          • #6
            If the clutch is the same as the one on my 02 conquest then the bronze bushing do not come out at this point. The free spinning plate should slide off after you have the snap ring off with a little help. Be very careful as when you do get it free there is some pressure and if you are not holding it secure then it may fly off. You may need 2 people to put it back together as per the vid. After the plate is off you can look at the clutch and will see a small pin that you can punch out and then the bronze bushing will come out (i had to replace mine).

            Best of luck.
            Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
            —Will Rogers

            Comment

            • #7
              NOOOO! just files the 2 burrs at the end of the shaft that look like punch marks or pry marks and then sand the shaft so it will slide off ( with help ).
              The shaft looks rusty and the key looks rusty in the 3rd pic, they are steel, the cam is aluminum they don't mix which builds up corrosion, again the are under pressure outward and rotationally. There currently is nothing holding that cam on but rust.
              sigpic

              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
              Joe Camel never does that.

              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

              Comment

              • #8
                When I took mine apart there were no burrs/punch marks. I had to turn, twist, pull and use elbow grease for mine to come of. Had tried different things and finally with the help of a friend we both got it off. As stated many times..."it is under pressure so be careful"....
                Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
                —Will Rogers

                Comment

                • #9
                  Success! I got it off thanks to all your suggestions guys! Took a bit of filing around the shaft but it finally came off.

                  Now on to the next problem....

                  I've identified the issue with the clutch....the inside bushing of the outer shiver (the one next to the cam) is unevenly worn which partially released the retaining ring and caused a bad wobble at high speed.

                  Problem is the bushing seems to be really fused to the shiver so not sure what the best way is to get it out of there...any ideas?

                  Here's a couple of pics so you can see where I'm at...

                  Thanks again for all the suggestions and help!

                  Here's the problem..bushing worn out and retaining ring pops off causing bad wobble and vibration which cause drive belt to wear excessively and come off clutches.


                  You can see the uneven wear in the bushing on the left side in this shot


                  And the resulting big gap on the shaft causing the wobble

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Well I've never seen that ring before, all the clutches I've worked on were pressed in and secured by a roll pin. After pressing new bushing in I'd drill the roll pin groove so as to not distort (dent in) the bushing.
                    Perhaps RD will chime in if he has seen different.
                    sigpic

                    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                    Joe Camel never does that.

                    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Make sure and knock the retaining pin out. Take a close look around the clutch and you should be able to see it. The get something about the same size of the bushing and GENTLY knock it out. When you put the new one back in make sure you drill a new hole thru the old hole so when you put the retaining pin back in it will not damage the new bushing.
                      Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
                      —Will Rogers

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Yeah I was expecting to find the roll pin but consulting the service manual I guess this is a 127-129 part number clutch which uses a retaining ring to hold the bushing in.

                        The other end of the bushing is nicely fused into the aluminum as it's hard to even see the seams of the bronze bushing..figure some penetrating oil and a few strategic hammer taps will hopefully get it out!

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          This 127-129 part # clutch is mentioned in the service manual but there is no reference to it in any of the late 90-mid 2000 argo parts manuals.

                          I can not find a part number for the retaining ring that holds the bushing and can not verify if the bushing is the same as the parts in the 126-24 clutch referenced in all the Bigfoot parts manual.

                          Anyone have experience ordering parts for this 127-129 clutch that does not have the roll pin that secures the bushing??

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Give your local dealer a call and see what they have to say. You do not have to buy from them if the price is expensive....maybe even give ODG a call if you cannot get any other assistance.
                            Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
                            —Will Rogers

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              UPDATE:

                              Well couldn't get the bushing out of the old clutch and speaking to my dealer he didn't have a part number for the retaining ring and bushing in the 127-129 clutch so rather than messing around anymore I just ordered the new replacement clutch 127-197 and washer spacer.... It arrived today so will hopefully be back up and running this weekend!

                              Comment

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