Transmission Options

[Rushlow]

Hey Guy's look for some advice

I have an old 70's Argo 8x8 I have replaced the engine with a 20hp Kohler and it's been a blast. Let's just say our camping trips now have ice cold beers.

Anyhow I have an old transmission it has manual breaks and my arms still are feeling the last trip. Turning with a load is almost impossible once the routers get hot. So I think it's time I start looking at either replacing the transmission with a T-20 or replacing the breaks with Hydraulic.

From what I have found on the forum the T-20’s aren’t cheap and the maintenance isn’t either.

So am I better off looking at a new breaking system or swapping the entire transmission out? Or am I missing something with my manual breaks?

I mean they work fine when cold and without a load on uneven ground I can turn almost on a dime but with a load and all 8 wheels on the ground it’s takes some pulling to get it turned.

Is there a transmission that will reverse on one side while the other is going forward, So I can spin in place?

The Argo is for gear so I don’t need to move fast.

I attached a picture of my transmission I not sure what you would call it. But it's not a T-20 it's older

[ARGOJIM]

It may be most cost effective to try to adapt the early K (I/C) style hydraulic brake system. That system used bolt on brackets to hold the calipers and the earliest had the low stick location. This would probably be all custom fab unless you can find used parts including the powerpack frame.
It is also possible to buy a new or used trans case and put your innards in it , calipers mount to case ( Gil did this to his using all new parts needed), still have make brackets to hold master cylinders or buy or fab the new parts an modify fire wall to use to use handle bar or stick steering.

The easiest way to obtain a small improvement in turning would be 22's on front 3 tires and 21's on rear axle allowing it basically to ride as a 6x6 until loaded, I did this on a Conquest and was quite impressive. The smaller tires skim the surface and yet give you the stability and sometimes needed drive from the rears. This is the principle of the Avenger and Frontier 8x8 frames with up set front an rear axles.

[Rushlow]

I didn't even think about the tire sizes, that's a good fix. I run rawhides 21's but have a set of duro's so I could do the swap on the rear tires I was warned about the rawhides eating bearings. Just look cool with a matching set. Maybe I can track down two 20 rawhides but they are hard to come by.

I have seen the Hydraulic brake system on the Argo and it looks like it wouldn't take to much to fit them in there. I have a hard time finding used parts here in Ontario, and shipping kills any sort of deal. I am thinking that if I end up making the move the Hydraulic brakes I will have to use ATV calibers, rotors, and master cylinders. Which I can find no problem might have $200 in parts by the time I get them all. But the brackets will be another mess, after the engine swap I have very little clearance up front and it would be nice to relocate the brakes.

I wouldn't think they need to on the jackshafts. If I relocate the brakes to under the seat or in the back I have lots of room and can cheap right out and use car parts.

But that said, after parts and time I still have the older transmission, although the breaks are a cost effective solution is it the best bang for my buck. Will the T-20 be a better over all solution does it do anything that my current transmission won't?

Maybe I am off base but I have the feeling I should get away from this older transmission and replace. It hasn't caused me any problem at this point but I have only had it up and running for one season and maybe put 50 hours on it. Mind you it's from the 70's and still going strong.

If it isn't broke don't fix it :-)

[Noel Woods]

The site Administrator: Mike Put a t20 in an Argo, and the thread is on this site and extremely info packed and well done. I think that your Argo transmission is plenty tough. The used parts are there and I would recommend you contact a dealer like Adair Argo, and explain to them what you want to do with the brakes, and other items.

I like the T20 in several of my machines, I also like the Argo transmission for tuffness. I don't see that one type has an advantage over the other.

[ARGOJIM]

In my opinion the biggest advantage to of the t-20 is the independent drives (not an open dif. like the Argo trans) however if you're running it loaded most of the time and use your low gear the t-20 does not have it.
I would think there are plenty of parts machines in Ontario, just a matter of finding one.
Depending on how handy you are upgrading a to a newer trans with factory hydraulic brakes and a brake fan can be done, you will still however have a 70's machine with pinned axles and light frame.

Before you go crazy with the brakes and other upgrades try the 20 Kohler, as a second connecting rod can make a vast improvement on any machine, if you find the power is there and the turning is better/easier install a brake fan and see if that helps. Remember not to "ride" the brakes, when I had my tec. after a few frosty beverages I'd forget this from time to time and be sitting on the side of the trail waiting for them to cool.
If they are adjusted too tight it will actually stop the machine when they get hot.

[Rushlow]

Ok, I am going to keep the transmission. Rebuild?

The breaks were stupidity. Late one night in the shop, I backed the breaks off completely and little by little snug up the nut on the control rods that connect to the handle bars. Now the bars all out of whack. About an hour of messing with the nuts that connects the control rod to the caliber, the bars are in line. I did notice where I tuned the bars to isn't where I want to hold them when riding, so after a trip I was able to dial them in. As they heat up they seem to lose a bit, but all and all are working. A Fan sounds like a good idea

Jim I was reading your post and I just don't get what your telling me when you say "20 Kohler, as a second connecting rod can make a vast improvement on any machine" I like vast improvement.

[ARGOJIM]

Ok, I am going to keep the transmission. Rebuild?

The breaks were stupidity. Late one night in the shop, I backed the breaks off completely and little by little snug up the nut on the control rods that connect to the handle bars. Now the bars all out of whack. About an hour of messing with the nuts that connects the control rod to the caliber, the bars are in line. I did notice where I tuned the bars to isn't where I want to hold them when riding, so after a trip I was able to dial them in. As they heat up they seem to lose a bit, but all and all are working. A Fan sounds like a good idea

Jim I was reading your post and I just don't get what your telling me when you say "20 Kohler, as a second connecting rod can make a vast improvement on any machine" I like vast improvement.

I had ass/u/me d you had replaced the single cylinder 16hp Tecumseh with a 20 v-twin Kohler, if you had a 2 cyl. 2 stroke, my mistake.

The Argo stick machines were all designed to be driven with the sticks against the dash, when I had my Tec. machine I had it adjusted tight with only about 4-5 inches of through so they had to be against dash or they would heat for sure.
While you're in there sand the discs lightly to remove any glaze, would have suggested pads also but surely you're not looking to adjust them again.

[Rushlow]

I have the v-twin Kohler CH20 4 cycle. The 2 stroke is long gone