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Max IV clutch set up Help

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  • Max IV clutch set up Help

    I'm looking to change my clutching on my Max IV with a Bandolero engine and wanted to see what the proven set ups are . Any ideas would help save me a little time and headaches. I'm running a factory primary and a secondary with a green spring now , it works ok but I think there is more in it .Thanks

  • #2
    Originally posted by gus marrone View Post
    I'm looking to change my clutching on my Max IV with a Bandolero engine and wanted to see what the proven set ups are . Any ideas would help save me a little time and headaches. I'm running a factory primary and a secondary with a green spring now , it works ok but I think there is more in it .Thanks
    More in it how Gus? Are you looking for more speed or grunt? If it's the grunt you want, I would just switch to the red spring.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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    • #3
      Gus,

      Fred, Cory, George, and Lewis are a few guys that are some names that come to mind when performance Briggs engines comes to mind. They should be able to help you out with it. I know Tony was also considering doing this same thing in one of his Attexes. I'm not that knowledgeable on it, but I can try to give you a couple options at least when I call you tomorrow (George texted me and said to give you a buzz). Talk to you soon, and in the meantime maybe one or two of those guys will chime in. I think the biggest thing you'll want to watch is the RPM's, because the stock Max clutch is only rated for a certain number and those Bandolero engines spin quite a bit faster than a stock Briggs Vanguard.
      "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
      sigpic

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      • #4
        It has enough grunt as it is so I thought more top end .I'm looking to see what set ups are being used like comet clutch and how many pucks, power bloc clutch with the amount of weight and what spring in the secondary. I might be looking for more out of it than it's willing to give , it's been with the stock set up for a few years and looking to play with it a little. I have both comet duster 94 C and a power block clutch sitting on the bench ready to go . Thanks

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        • #5
          Gus,

          I believe Recreatives is using the Powerblock clutches on the Maxes and the 18HP Max II that I drove with them installed on it seemed like it had a few extra horsepower, and it was certainly noticeable. They said the Powerblock clutches are a little more efficient (and pricey) at transferring power than the stock Comet ones are.
          "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
          sigpic

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          • #6
            hi
            Bando engine in a swamp fox .
            Running 26 inch tires
            stock t20 sprocket 15 tooth ?
            axle sprocket 32 teeth
            clutches
            780 drive 1800 engagement use the heaviest weights for max belt crush for your selected engage rpm
            770 driven [lowest 1st gr compared to the 780 790 ] 28 degree ramps fine tuned wth a ###### red spring###### ]

            I had a 28 tooth axle sprocket not enough bottom end power and operated the engine at to low a speed for slow trails [although if u select the speed gearing the engagement needs lowering ,to allow belt to fully engage at very low mph.

            I checked my top speed and its around jogging speed faster than an argo in high
            Last edited by Tomo; 01-29-2014, 04:42 AM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by gus marrone View Post
              It has enough grunt as it is so I thought more top end.

              Hey Gus,


              If you're currently getting full engagement on your stock clutch setup, changing clutches isn't going to give you more top end unless you get a physically larger diameter drive clutch. It sounds to me like you'd want to drop a tooth or two on your primary sprockets on the back axle. This will end up giving you more speed at the top end, but it'll sacrifice a bit of grunt down low. At that point, you might be able to mess around with clutching to move the engagement to a higher rpm so that you're making more engine power at a lower vehicle speed (via a red spring, for instance.... or work on the primary) and you'll still have the new higher speed because of the sprocket change. A T-20 sprocket change to a tooth or two bigger is also an option, but it's more difficult and expensive. Are you running 26 tooth sprockets on the back axle now?
              sigpic

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              • #8
                It's all working ok as is , fully opening up with plenty of grunt. I thought of sprockets but that opens up a can of worms that I don't want to get onto right now and they are 26 tooth in the rear. I think i'm just getting bored and found a few clutches and secondaries on the shelf and wanted a quick fix for a different feel to the machine . Thanks for the ideas and letting me pick your brains, Gus

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by gus marrone View Post
                  I thought of sprockets but that opens up a can of worms that I don't want to get onto right now and they are 26 tooth in the rear.

                  Remember you just need to change two sprockets! Are you running splined axles? If so, you can just yank off your old tubes and put on a couple different individual sprockets. Jay at RI told me that they were having broken axle problems in the past with Max IVs running four individual sprockets on the rear axles. I have no idea when they made the upgrade to a splined connecting tube for the sprockets but regardless; if you wanted to play around with a couple different ratios it wouldn't be too hard. If you're running pinned tubes, it's a bit more involved but at least you won't be bored.
                  sigpic

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