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  • #16
    Terberta PMd me earlier this week regarding this, so... Terb? Consider this your reply from me following the above threads.


    If your belt is reasonably tight, and you're only getting the drive clutch to engage a little bit (considering that you said you've got 1.5" of space to go to the top of the driven clutch...) I'd hazard a guess that you might have a broken spring or two in your drive clutch. This is really quite easy to check. Take the belt off, and either compress the drive clutch by hand by pushing the outside sheeve in, or alternatively... with the belt off, start the engine and start the engine until the clutch closes up and sticks shut. Do this with the engine cover down just in case there's a broken part that wants to eject from the clutch at a bo-zillion mph. Just close it up by hand if you're sketched out.


    You'll be able to look at the three cam-arms and the six return springs once she's closed up (sheeves together). You can also take the clutch bolt out and take the three small bolts off of the clutch cover (assuming it's a Salsbury clutch) and look at it, but the latter method is way easier. Blow it all out with some compressed air and lube things up with some graphite lubricant, typically available at any auto parts store. Don't use any wet, petroleum based lubricant as it'll just attract dust/dirt and contribute to wear faster.


    If nothing's broken in there, I'd wager your driven clutch is providing too much resistance for whatever reason. There are three plastic "cam-sliders" on the driven clutch that are readily available and easily replaceable (and often overlooked) that are a regular maintenance item. If they're worn down to nubs or non-existent, you might be getting some extreme resistance where the aluminum helixes are rubbing on one another.


    Check out the drive clutch first and maybe post a picture of the condition of both clutches. The flat 18 Briggs isn't a real screamer, but you should still be able to get 20-25mph out of that machine without any problem, depending of course on the primary sprocket size.
    Last edited by hydromike; 11-07-2014, 07:14 PM.
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    • #17
      No speed. 18hp briggs.?

      I have a 950 with a 18hp. Red spring. . I made slots to make the motor adjustable. The pully on the motor only comes up to about 1 inch from the top. Bottom pully does not go down all the way. Testing in neutral. Belt is tight.. then I start it and the belt slides down inside the lower pully. And makes belt loose again. My belt is 1 3/16.. should it be wider? When off my belt had about 3/4 inch of play on top motor pully... should that be tight? My top speed is 10mph. I have no way right now to check rpm. But it runs and drives good.. lots of power. Just slow. ..
      Last edited by Mike; 11-07-2014, 10:09 PM. Reason: merged a fouth thread with the other three to keep things organized and in one location. You can just reply to this thread.

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      • #18
        Perhaps we are all ahead of ourselves. First thing may be to run down to the local lawn mower or sled shop and find out what rpm you both are turning, 3600rpm unloaded 9 in neutral) is a good number.
        Next what size tire are you running? 21's on a 4 stroke Hustler are slow. What gears do the machines have in them, the t20 and drive gear. Large sprockets will reduce speed and create power.
        If your machine was designed(geared) to do 15 mph your not going to get 25mph, many if not most mfr.'s machines were only designed to do 20 mph or so.
        If you both have power but no speed I'd guess the clutches to be working well.


        Just a safety note, HydroMike, never mind I see it has been corrected.
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        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
        Joe Camel never does that.

        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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        • #19
          pic of clutch

          I need a pic or explanation of the 3 plastic pieces on the side of the clutch. I don't see them. I made an adjustable plate for motor and now when I get the belt tight the driven clutch will not close up. The belt stops about 1" from top and the belt is now loose again. Before it would go up to the top.

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          • #20
            Check the transmission gallery, there are plenty of pics showing the plastic sliders. These are on the driven clutch.
            sigpic

            My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
            Joe Camel never does that.

            Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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            • #21
              Put new belt on

              With a new belt and 1-1 1/2" of flex the belt will not ride in the top of the driven pulley when I shut it off. The pulley has a red spring and before with the old belt (not too bad) the pulley would close up enough to keep the belt on the top. Now it stays about 1'' down from top. It's like the pulley can't close now.. What can I do? I have made an adjustable motor plate and and tried moving the motor forward to loosen the belt but it still rides in the same place, down an inch or so. I did get the right belt (6007) Doesn't make sense. Any ideas welcome.
              Last edited by Mike; 11-20-2014, 09:36 PM. Reason: merged so many threads on this same topic I have lost count. Please just reply to this thread. Thanks.

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              • #22
                My guess is the preload on the spring is not correct assuming what you state is correct.
                l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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                • #23
                  Great.. That means pulling it. Right? Can we run it this way? Won't we just lose a little bottom end?

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