T-20 Questions and concerns

[RobertGO]

I recently purchased a 97 MAX IV. I had to replace the belt because the owner wanted to take it for a last hoorah. Well I didn't get to try it prior to purchase but he did show me the tracks where he rode it. So i figured it did work and would have to take the mans word about it. Any way after replacing the belt and trying it out. It would not stay in reverse and it would not track to the left. Did some playing around with it and did get it to work a couple of times. Did some searching on this site and everything pointed to the Diamond plate pins. So off the motor and removed the Diamond plates and the left side was flat sided. Who ever changed the fluid put the vent plug at the top. Also I noticed the the top bolt to adjust bands was way out (After more inspecting. I found that the plunger to the band is stuck out. I can tap on it to get it back in. But when I pull back on the stick it stays out. I have tried to work it in and out.) Should I try to re-adjust the bands or is this normal. I attached a picture. Also what is the purpose of the springs on the shifting rods. They do not apply any pressure at all. Is there an adjustment for these springs? I did manage to remove 25oz of tran fluid. It was dirty black.

Is there a way to free up the plunger without tearing the tranny apart?

[msafi65]

The springs on the shift levers are an aftermarket kit known as an easy shift. I prefer a solid linkage that makes both sides engage. I usually find the owners of vehicles with these haven't been trained to shift into reverse and grind the reverse teeth out of the ring gear drum. With your vehicle lifted so tires can be turned shift the sliding collar to the outside detent. While turning the tires try shifting and see when you feel tooth contact. Going into gear the shift collar should only move 1/16"before contact with gear teeth is felt. If it snaps into the detent and will stay in gear replacing the pin or shifter will probably fix it. Vented plug is supposed to be in upper hole. Total movement at the top of the sticks should be no more than 7". Measure from the dash with play taken out of linkage then pull full back. If it's over 7 " adjust the bands. Black fluid is quite normal. Most I see have not been changed for years.

[RobertGO]

Top Left Plunger Staying out

Repairing a recently bought 97 MAX IV. Having problems with it popping out of reverse. Removed engine and pull Diamond plates and found the problem .I also noticed that the top left Plunger will not go back in when the stick is at rest. Right side works fine. Left side the bottom plungers goes in and out as stick is worked. The top one stays out. Only way to get it back is to hit it with a mallet. And not with a light tap. More like a smack. I attached a picture of it. What would be the fix for this. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. 100_0972.jpg

[ARGOJIM]

Spray it with penetrating oil, heck spray m all.

[onlyonce]

Someone may have spread the (ears) of that plunger when they replaced the roll pin holding the brake band to the plunger. The slightly larger dia. on that end would cause it to bind up. If so the only way to correct the problem is to take the trans apart.

[msafi65]

I'm with onlyonce on this. If lubing the plunger dosent greatly improve it the pin is probably installed wrong. Either the ears spread from not being supported during install or the split is either up or down. If the thrust on a spring pin can close the gap it will work out. After installing plungers on the bands always test in plunger bores for binding. I made a clamping sleeve to hold plungers while installing pins and still get a sticky one at times.

[RobertGO]

Well I went ahead and bit the Bullet and purchased new bands and Diamond plates along with Gaskets. Not knowing the history of the machine I figure it best to know what I have. At least this way I know when I head out I won't have a problem. And this way I am learning all out the MAX. Amazing what these parts cost. Thanks for the input. Just hope I don't find something major when I tear it down.

[hydromike]

Amazing what these parts cost.

The flat sided dowel pin on the diamond shifter is replaceable, and they're available at less than $1 each. Transmission bands can be relined at a cost of about $35 each by Transmission Crafters in Georgia. This board is a resourceful bunch, and we can typically find a better alternative to buying brand new. Deference to the manufacturers/suppliers to even making new parts available, but too often newcomers to the hobby are jaded about fixing or maintaining their machines when they see the price of new parts. Many people only want to be provided with new, off-the-shelf components but there are viable alternatives.