Muscateer black box clutch

[mert]

Looking at the Muskateer there is the old spring assist driven clutch on the input shaft. Seized solid, I am assuming one should be able to move the sheaves and compress the spring on the backside a bit, but she's locked up tight.

Best way to remove these? More familiar with Ford engines and using a bolt-on puller or the FomoCo style power steering puller/installer tools for harmonic balancers/pulleys... but this one does not seem to have any place to get a grip to pull it off the shaft.

???

[mert]

No suggestions? Do these just usually slip on a splined shaft or?

[dirtdobber]

Mert, post a photo of your set up. That will enable us to see what you are working with and hopefully help you with a solution.

[msafi65]

The clutch is probably on a key in the input shaft. Was there a bolt in the center? If so remove it and start by soaking in and out with pb blaster or some other penitrating oil. May have to pull transmission and support the clutch in a press as close to the shaft as possible and press the shaft out. Another effictive way is remove unit from chassis and stand on end with clutch up. Fill input with oil and let sit a day or two. Have someone hold the weight off by the clutch while driving shaft out with aluminum shaft that is small enough th fit in center of clutch. Post a pic the clutch can probably be dissasembed in a press and cleaned up if the bushing surfaces arnt to badly rusted. Good luck.

[mert]

Here are some pics. I am assuming the two sheave sides should spring apart if pressed, compressing the spring. Unsure how to test this or if it can be disassembled and fixed, or best to just replace...

Salisbury Torque convertor. I am not sure if the three "dots" on the face pry out to reveal threaded taps for a puller. Didn't want to go levering on it without being sure.

[dirtdobber]

I've never dealt with one of these, but here's what I would try (short of removing the shaft from the transmission):
Unscrew the 3 bolts that pass through the hub, and be very careful as they seem to be holding the spring under tension. Take a turkey foot puller and secure it with those three bolts. As you pull, be careful that you aren't damaging your pulleys or hubs, and make sure the center bolt on the puller isn't damaging the threads in the end of the shaft. Some heat will probably go a long way toward freeing things. Not too hot though, because aluminum will melt before you know it, and you don't want to catch anything on fire. You want your heat applied to the hub, not the shaft. In fact, as you heat it, keep spraying penetrating oil on the shaft to cool it, BUT DON'T SPRAY DIRECTLY INTO A FLAME!! Keep the flame away when you spray. The idea is to expand the hub, not the shaft.

[Don]

With a T20 it's easy to suspend the weight of the transmission by the clutch and use that weight to assist in the removal, but with the black box would be a little more of a trick to do that. If there's any way to suspend at least part of the weight by supporting under the clutch, it may help.

I've never seen what's in one of those mysterious transmission boxes: any chance of posting some pictures? I see you've got the bolts out of the cover......

[mert]

Pics are easy, working on this mystery machine is the challenge! The innards are quite the mechanical marvel, remind me of my old pinball machines.... but more mechanical, less electrical.... Have heard they were not terribly reliable, but it "seems" to spin freely and the levers all seem to operate properly, but by hand and under power are two separate events....

[ARGOJIM]

Well just looking at the picture (since Andyman has my clutch now) of the speed sensitive clutch, you should be able to remove the 3 through bolts and install longer ones through the puller and remove the clutch.

[Don]

Wow, thanks for the pictures. Lots of Voodoo going on in there. I'd hate to see what happens if just one chain breaks inside the box and starts flailing.

[riotwarrior]

Thats a speed clutch...if you can locate a torque sensing clutch I would honestly go with it. That clutch sucks ...it iz same as I had in my muscateer.

If you are willing to forgo that clutch get it off anyway you can. It would make your machine 10x better using a torque clutch...trust me...it was the single best improvement to my muscateer.

Maybe you can make a puller like a bearing splitter and pull from back of clutch???

[mert]

Ok, so what is the difference (I deal with FoMoCo Mustangs...!) and what type/model/brand of torque clutch would you recommend? Vendors to surf to see what is out there...

I am guessing the speed clutch works like a distributor mechanical advance, faster it spins the harder it clamps? And torque sensing react to load?

Something from here??? Comet Torque Converter Clutches & Parts for Go Karts & Mini Bikes | Go Kart & Mini Bike Parts | MFG Supply

All new to me, so any advice/experiences appreciated.

(I did buy a Tecumseh HH100 and have rims/wheels picked out...)

[mert]

Anyone help out on this? Totally unfamiliar with these items and need to get one sorted. Would prefer not to buy blind...

[riotwarrior]

Anyone help out on this? Totally unfamiliar with these items and need to get one sorted. Would prefer not to buy blind...

Mert

Sorry not been on in while...speed clutch wont backdown from high gear very well when underload.....more for gocart type of driving I guess...they dont even make them anymore.

Torque clutch has 3 ramps and a twist action against thr ramps closing the clutch when need of torque for steering or uphill.

On my Muscateer ...has Hagen trans...I would have to come to a stop at bottom of hill then slowly roll into hill with light throttle. Once going uphill I could full throttle and clutch would not creep up to high gear....however it would NEVER under load go into low gear.

Peek in my Muscateer out for a ride thread....I thjnk the info u need is in there....places to call where to get clutch parts etc.

Hope that helps