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All right big clutch guys....
I'm running into a little problem putting a Comet 1195 drive clutch back together after replacing the weight arms. I'm pretty sure I paid attention when taking the ol' bugger apart and quite frankly, there are only a few parts to this thing so really mucking it up should be hard. Well, it seems I've found a way.
The problem surrounds getting the ramp plate back on once the whole thing is assembled. The nuts that hold the ramp plate on won't tighten down enough to get the locking cotter pins through. It's darn close, but when those nuts are tight, they're tight, and I'm confident this is how this thing came apart. here's a shot of what I have...
The only exploded view of the clutch that I can find doesn't even show the drive pins, but I'm sure they have to go on before the retractor does. (This is the same diagram Comet supplies with the replacement parts...)
Both the bottoms of the drive pins and the receiving holes in the moveable face have a slight taper. I'm using the top groove on the shaft for the snap ring, so the moveable sheeve can come all the way up to where it's supposed to be (WTF is the bottom groove for; a spacer to use smaller belts?)
I got this clutch from RI about 12 years ago after being used on a demo machine. It's been taken apart before I owned it, but it's worked fine for years (aside from the bushings on the roller-weights being toasted....)
I guess I just need to know if the retractor goes on before the drive pins get installed. Any help's appreciated.
::UPDATE:: Well, I've found a somewhat decent manual that explains that I never should have even taken off the castellated nuts from the torque pins in the first place. Looks like they go into the movable sheeve AFTER the retractor is on.
Link to anybody else needing help: http://www.vintagesnow.com/Clutch_fi...ShopManual.pdf
I'm running into a little problem putting a Comet 1195 drive clutch back together after replacing the weight arms. I'm pretty sure I paid attention when taking the ol' bugger apart and quite frankly, there are only a few parts to this thing so really mucking it up should be hard. Well, it seems I've found a way.
The problem surrounds getting the ramp plate back on once the whole thing is assembled. The nuts that hold the ramp plate on won't tighten down enough to get the locking cotter pins through. It's darn close, but when those nuts are tight, they're tight, and I'm confident this is how this thing came apart. here's a shot of what I have...
The only exploded view of the clutch that I can find doesn't even show the drive pins, but I'm sure they have to go on before the retractor does. (This is the same diagram Comet supplies with the replacement parts...)
Both the bottoms of the drive pins and the receiving holes in the moveable face have a slight taper. I'm using the top groove on the shaft for the snap ring, so the moveable sheeve can come all the way up to where it's supposed to be (WTF is the bottom groove for; a spacer to use smaller belts?)
I got this clutch from RI about 12 years ago after being used on a demo machine. It's been taken apart before I owned it, but it's worked fine for years (aside from the bushings on the roller-weights being toasted....)
I guess I just need to know if the retractor goes on before the drive pins get installed. Any help's appreciated.
::UPDATE:: Well, I've found a somewhat decent manual that explains that I never should have even taken off the castellated nuts from the torque pins in the first place. Looks like they go into the movable sheeve AFTER the retractor is on.
Link to anybody else needing help: http://www.vintagesnow.com/Clutch_fi...ShopManual.pdf
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