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What to do....transmission

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  • What to do....transmission

    Have shop built 8x8 with old argo transmission in it.Built this one from ground up.Have used it for 2 years with no problems but doesn't turn worth a flip at low speeds.Problem is weight we know.This is a cargo carrying hunting wagon...second version. So I've had the same transmission for 8 years and it worked good in the smaller 6x6 wagon we built but the larger 8x8 is too heavy to turn nicely.Top end needs to only be 8-10 mph. Only used to travel across fields about 1/2 mile at a time.I've replace brake rotors and pads but wasn't enough. The machine is only driven about 75 miles total a season...average 1 mile a trip.Should a guy look at a t-20 trans.....a argo 34-100 or go hydrostat. The mechanical brakes just aren't cutting it on this machine.It's heavy...2300 lbs.empty....4000 loaded. But it doesn't need to turn sharp cause were in wide open places but trailering and such it needs to turn similar to a pickup. Like I said the old argo tranny has worked great but need a hundred yards to make a right hand turn...sugestions??? Recomendations??? See if I can post pic...here it is.
    Last edited by doccerny; 09-13-2016, 02:06 AM.

  • #2
    WOW, that's a beast. Perhaps try the hydraulic brakes in the machine. Depending on the trans. they can be mounted to it if drilled case or mounted remotely if case is not drilled. You would need a bit of engine to turn that thing and low gears in the trans..
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    Joe Camel never does that.

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    • #3
      I've got a Suzuki gs500 engine in it with 6 gears it will get low. It needs hydraulic breaks but would like a beefy er transmission ...afraid of shelling it.

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      • #4
        Wow, that is a really cool unit! Your tire choice is a big part of your problem (They look like Carlisle Strykers), mud tires are not designed to skid. They provide way too much lateral traction, this even very noticable on a light 6x6. Compound that with your emense weight and good luck turning on anything other than ice or sand. You may have some success taking quick/sharp jabs at the steering laterals vs trying to apply continuous pressure. The shock from grabbing a brake fast may be sufficient to tear up the grass enough to allow you to skid. Grass, asphault and other high traction surfaces are really tough to turn on even in a light vehicle.

        I would try a set of stock argo tires first or a set of Vandettas if they are in the budget before changing up the drivetrain.

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        • #5
          I agree with ya on the tires...they are Kenda Bear Claw. But I'm not trying to turn sharp at all...just slow elephant turns. It rolls thru all breaking except at high speeds. The mechanical breaks aren't doing much...like trying to stop a freight train lol. And I don't think those brake rotors were made for hydro...I think they'd over heat. A slow turn...like a left hand turn at an intersection would be fine.
          Last edited by doccerny; 09-13-2016, 01:26 PM.

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          • #6
            I doubt that amphibious is a huge concern with that rig. you could remove the rear axles and relocate them an inch higher in the frame. this would make it turn more like a 6x6 on hard ground, but you would still have all 8 in the soft stuff. With some creativity you could make it amphibious even with that mod. Over inflating the 4 centers, or putting taller tires in the middle would have a similar effect. even try removing all 8 tires and see which ones are tallest at a given pressure. If by dumb luck you have the 4 tallest tires on the 4 outside corners, this will make it hard to turn
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            • #7
              Good thoughts...I already put the new tires in the middle (a little taller)...nothing. last year we removed the front chains so pulling on the back 6...very little improvement. Thought about pullin chains on back axels but probably be hard loading on the trailer and get me hung up somewhere. And no the War Wagon don't float lol.

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              • #8
                With Hydraulic brakes and a ducted brake fan will make a huge difference.

                If you are running 25's and the back is not overweighted at all times, perhaps try a set of 22's as this will be much like a 6 wheeler until off kilter. The final drive ratio will be different but should still drive though the muck fine, asphalt may be different.

                You could also relocate the axle up and inch to do the same with out changing the ratio.

                Mechanical brakes in a Tecumseh 8 wheeler were not fun, most of us had larger arms back then.
                sigpic

                My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                Joe Camel never does that.

                Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've got 22's on it. The mass of the load is well centered so balance loaded is as it good as it gets. Like to know what the difference in brake pressures are between mechanical and hydraulic. You would think that hydra was more.I'm actually driving the beast standing up about 6 to 7 ft. Behind the tranny.
                  Last edited by doccerny; 09-13-2016, 11:56 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Loosing the BearClaw will greatly affect the steering but also your muck drive.

                    A 21Rawhide or at101 ( or even a 22 runamuck)on the rear will do the same and that I've done that. As far as less steering drag.

                    Don't know the difference in brake pressure,but feel wise and performance wise is significant.

                    A 34-100 trans will act the same without hydraulic brakes depending on the gearing of the 2. A t-20 is do able but extensive, most people shy away from the hydraulic mess.
                    Last edited by ARGOJIM; 09-14-2016, 06:44 PM.
                    sigpic

                    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                    Joe Camel never does that.

                    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks Jim....leaning toward hydraulic brakes. I have new rotors ( thicker) I'll look for some calipers to fit.

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                      • #12
                        As Jim mentioned if your case is to old for the hydraulic calipers they can be mounted with brackets. Real early Argos with hydraulics were on the power pack frame. I may have a set of those old mounts. I'll dig in the shed and let you know. I've messed with T20 vehicles that are over 2000 lbs loaded and the final gear ratio needs to be somewhere arround 12 mph top speed with cv belt drive input. Are you chain driving the input with bike engine and trany in front of that? What's your gear reduction after the transmission. Very interesting vehicle.

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                        • #13
                          Yip it's chain driven off the cycle tranny. It is sprocketed down about 30% at the transmission imput. Then sprocketed down again from the output to axel about 40%.I do have hi and low range on the argo tranny. And 6 gears on m/c tranny so it's not bad.I would say top end in high is 12mph...plenty fast

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                          • #14
                            I haven't found out what calipers will fit yet...hope to tomorrow. But I'm sure I'll have to build mounting brackets. The tranny pan or mount is still there but I'm sure the mech. Brake mounts would be in the way.

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                            • #15
                              I'll try to find a pic of the tranny set up. Thanks

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