Tweet
I've tried searching drive clutch, and red spring and having no luck on how to disassemble and put in a red spring. I just want to make shure bolts are torqued correct and is there a certain way it goes in. Thanks in advance
-
-
Just to clarify, you're swapping out the spring in the secondary (driven) clutch, right? The only bolt associated with your driven clutch will be the mounting bolt to the T-20. After that bolt is off, you can slide the secondary clutch off of the input shaft. (they usually require some tapping with a rubber/plastic mallet or a slight pry against the output sprocket if the machine has sat for a while).
After the clutch is off, you can mark a line across the movable sheeve and the helix so that you line them back up after you replace the spring. You'll need to put the clutch on a bench and press the helix down to free up the snap ring. Ol' Race built a compression tool to do his, but you can use a couple of big C-clamps to get it done. Here's a good shot of the clutch being compressed to get at the snap ring.
Race is using the highly coveted neon green "Pimp Spring" in this picture, but only two or three were ever wound to his specifications. Two are in museums, the other is in a mud hole on the back side of Busco Beach. 'Sure hope some kid doesn't find it.
Anyway, after the snap ring is off, you can back off your C-clamps while tapping on the helix. It's held in place by friction, spite, and a small woodruff key. Now, there isn't a TON of force in this spring, but for goodness sake be careful anyway. Keep a little tension on the C-clamps and it'll eventually walk off. The helix will eventually pop off and spin about a 1/4 or 1/2 turn once it comes off of the shaft. This is why we marked the line across the two parts at the beginning.
Now is a great chance to inspect the plastic cam sliders for wear. Folks don't usually tend to keep the clutches as clean as they should (yours truly, included....) so clean everything up, replace the cam sliders and the bushings in the movable face and you can then reverse the procedure above to get it back together with the new spring. Get the new spring seated on the retaining nubs in each half and before you press the helix back down on the shaft, spin the movable sheeve with your hand to preload the spring until the two marks line back up. On the Salsbury clutches, you can just begin to press the helix on the shaft and rotate the movable sheeve and the cam sliders will move past the tip of the ramps to preload the spring. Get it preloaded, and then tap the helix back down on the shaft. Be careful of that woodruff key; they don't often like to stay put as you're tapping on things.
After that get your snap ring put back on and lube up bushings and the ramps with a nice dry graphite lubricant.
Good luck!sigpic -
Hydromike thank you for the informative and excellent reply. Although now you opened the next can of worms, what plastic cam sliders and bushings is that something I can call Richards and he will know what I'm talking about and send me new ones? Sorry if these are dumb questions I have never messed with anything like this before.Comment
-
Originally posted by Delduck View Post
Yes, he will know exactly what your talking about. I ordered a set of cam buttons from him today, they are $10 for the set of 3.Comment
-
I'll be ordering tomorrow. My belt just came today, and I ordered a 23 hp vanguard that should be in tomorrow also I wish I had more knowledge on these machines it seems like I'm ordering stuff every couple days. Yes it's lots of little presents but I'd rather have it all in one shipment. My welcome letter a year ago was ( welcome to this addiction). So true it is !Comment
Comment