Help with clutch adjustment and identification on Coot

[msafi65]

Dirtdober's post also has the weight and spring chart I've bee looking for. Thanks.

[ARGOJIM]

That is a Serp belt NOT a CVT belt .
You need a Belt for a Snowmobile .

It also looks like though you currently have a variable speed belt that the angle and depth of the belt may be small like some goodyear equipment belts.

[allwheeldrive]

As an update. I re-positioned my engine, it’s now moved over 5/8” Which isn’t much but I figured it be better than nothing and I knew how not moving it worked (not good). So I bought another new belt this time a direct replacement for the Coot’s original. With the Engine moved over 5/8” It makes the belt essentially 1.25” shorter than the original and about 1” longer than the short belt I bought. So I’m pretty much right in the middle of correct length and too short.

Now I have a heck of a time getting the RPM’s down enough to change gears. BUT it’s do-able. Could not with the short belt at all. The problem is I’m still slipping in 2nd and reverse just like before. When in first gear I haven’t noticed any slip where before it did (original belt / original engine position.) So that’s better… but still unacceptable.

I swear the worst thing about working on machines like these is there is no consistency. Which makes problem solving almost impossible.
For some non-apparent reason now my engine Ideals maybe 100RPM higher than before. I know this because before I needed to use two Popsicle sticks wedged behind the throttle lever to keep the engine happy and not stalling. It was nice because when in use I could just let off the gas without the Popsicle sticks and drop the rpm low enough for smooth gear changes. Now the machine maintains that RPM with no spacers and is likely contributing to the much harder gear changes.

But wait there’s more. My transmission seems to be MUCH harder to physically get into gear. And it pops out of 2nd while driving around like if I go over bumps. Which is never did before. I don’t understand how moving the engine has made the gear shifts harder and the RPM increase.

I had a theory. Which was the engine is moved back (not to the left) but back about ¼ of an inch. This was unintentional just a byproduct of trying to drill out new holes threw 3 layers of steel plate and not getting them all perfectly aligned. Perhaps the ¼” of back travel has changed the resting position of the idea throttle (due to the fact the cable is pulled ¼” further to increase ,my base RPM)

Now that also means my primary and 2ndary clutch are no longer in perfect alignment. With the engine clutch ¼” back from the driven clutch. Both clutches are perfectly parallel, just offset. I know that isn’t idea,l but I didn’t think it was a deal breaker. If I get 50% less belt life I’d be fine… seeing as that would still be many more hours than I have ever driven this thing.

The question is having the belt misaligned that little, could that somehow cause friction in the transmission and make it physically hard to throw the shiftier forwards and back as well as popping it out of gear? I’d think not, but what else has changed since I last drove it? Nothing.
I’m now wondering if I should try and pull out the driven clutch and really rough up the surface to get more bite. It’s driving me nuts that there are CVTs on Polaris SxS that can handle 140 HP and I can’t manage to get my CVT to transmit 9.