Salsbury Clutch Rebuild Article is up!

[Mike]

A HUGE thanks to Don for taking the time to write an article about rebuilding the Salsbury clutch located here: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/aatv-...h-rebuild.html

This article is very detailed and not only does it give you some great advice on a rebuild but it also provides tips that we can all use on our clutches for maintenance.

An article like this takes many hours to document so thanks again Don for the time that you put into not only this article but other literature on the site. It is greatly appreciated.

Mike

[Tango42]

Great article Don!! Thanks for taking the time to put that together. Amazing timing too……I am having issues with my clutch (a 910 salisbury) and was planning on tearing into it as soon as snow season is over (this thing is just too damn fun in the snow!! ).
My clutch is making a lot of noise…..clicking and clacking and not releasing all the way (snapping back with a click) when coming down to idle. Also, since my background is with late-model snowmobiles that rev immediately to “shift speed” and hold that rpm while the sled accelerates, I’m thinking something is wrong because my superchief doesnt do this. My manual says the g50b makes 44 hp @ 7k rpm, so I would think when you hit the throttle, it should rev to somewhere near 7k and hold while it accelerates?? The motor seems to be running perfect, but it revs (I would estimate) to maybe half that, then climbs slowly while it accelerates……until I run out of courage. Any ideas??
I have seen the salibury kits on ebay recently, but if none come with the spline liners, where do you get them? Would I be better off to find a comet 94c and forget about the salisbury??

Thanks!
Ron

[jerseybigfoot]

Don excellent repair documentary. Pulling the springs back into place is an art.

Tango42, The engine is not revving out probably due to the secondary clutch spring has fatigued. (Also the primary spring have fatigued) This allows the engine side clutch to over-pinch the belt and pull it into high gear prematurely. You may be able to tighten the secondary spring by rotating the spring tang an additional hole (if it has adjustment holes) you may be able to rotate the movable sheave one additional ramp.

[George]

Thanks for the time that went into the article Don. I know nothing about clutches. The article made me want to learn.

[Don]

Thanks, everyone. I'm no expert, and I should have put that disclaimer on the article. I've done a few of them lately, finally got the hang of it, and I thought maybe someone could benefit from my mistakes. I must have sent the pics to Mike out of order and he's fixed it now- it makes more sense this way.

Ron- JBF's right, but I'd bet on broken springs in the drive clutch. You described what one of mine acted like with three busted. Unless your an Attex purist, I'd go with the Duster. They're a great clutch, easy to get parts for and easy to work on. Comet has great PR and customer service, too.

If you get a kit for the 910, purple rollers are what came in the SC from what I can gather (sorry, never did find the right part number for that kit, mine came in bags that weren't labeled). Or you can always send it to me for a rebuild.

[Jeff t-boss]

Excellent article Don!!

You mention dry lubrication at the end of your article. As a locksmith AND truck mechanic; I would like to suggest useing either silicone spray, which goes on wet, but dries leaving an anti-friction coating; or graphite powder. (Basically ground up pencil lead) I use it alot in my locksmithing, and recommend it as it is a dry lubricant, and will not cake or absorb dirt and grime. Silicone spray is more resilient to the elements than the graphite, but as with any lubricant under any condition, it must be reapplied regularly.

[Tango42]

Thanks for the help guys.

Don, after reading your article and thinking about it more last night, what you suggest makes sense. Normally, if your rpms are low, you need to remove weight from the arms.....broken springs would do the same thing. I have used the secondary spring adjustment to tweak peak rpms on a sled, but only a small amount. I'm going to look into the duster, but I may take you up on the rebuild

Where can I get a puller for a 910??

Ron

[Mike]

I must have sent the pics to Mike out of order and he's fixed it now- it makes more sense this way.

It was no fault of yours Don, you are too kind. I apologize, I just posted the pictures in the wrong place. You're right, it makes much better sense now that the pictures actually go with what you wrote.

[6X6]

Don, nice article, I was trying to get a maintenance video together, but you beat me to clutch-rebuild All I was doing was a clean and lube and re-assemble video. ANYway, Tango, if your clutch is snapping shut as you let off, it's hanging up and then releasing, either worn OR it is gummed up with belt dust and dirt. Take the cover off, go to town with the compressed air, and use graphite spray lube. (Jig-A-Loo) is cheap at hardware stores but works great, or hit the local sled/powersports shop.