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Argo Clutches Vids

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  • #16
    I would tinker with the driver clutch to change powerband and/or engagment RPM as it is RPM sensitive and tinker with the driven clutch to change shift rate as it is load sensitive.

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    • #17
      Nice Vids RD ! Tis Good to see Just how they come apart,,and what to expect with the springs!

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      • #18
        great vid! Thanks for all you do for 6x6world rd! I watched your bearing/seal vid 100 times before tackling my bigfoot.

        Ok, so what settings would i need to bring high gear down a notch? I need a speed/power setting inbetween H and L. Low is to low and High is to High.






        .
        Last edited by waylonh; 10-27-2010, 11:06 PM.

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        • #19
          I would like to adjust my driven clutch but I am not sure what holes/positions are being referred to? I notice that on the video there are clearly two holes showing on the end of the clutch (I guess that is called the helix). However my clutch only has one hole. Does this mean it is not adjustable or are the holes for the spring something else that I have to disassemble the clutch to see? Thanks for the help.
          Last edited by dickdl; 03-27-2012, 09:32 AM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by dickdl View Post
            I notice that on the video there are clearly two holes showing on the end of the clutch (I guess that is called the helix). However my clutch only has one hole. Does this mean it is not adjustable or are the holes for the spring something else that I have to disassemble the clutch to see? Thanks for the help.
            The other holes on yours are blind (not drilled all the way through), but they are there. Unless you have a different clutch, or Helix (hard to say for sure without pics or info). Go ahead and pull it apart and have a look, won't hurt to clean and lube it anyway. Much better to have a good understanding of how it comes apart under controled conditions, then to have to do it out in the bush for your first time anyway.


            RD

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            • #21
              OK. Thanks

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              • #22
                I want to do this clutch mod this weekend before the ride next weekend. Can I remove the driven clutch without taking out the motor?? ((Edit: I read several threads where you chimed in on this, it should be removable) Also, I don't have the sticks you used, what common hardware store item would you recommend for shimming?

                I have never operated my machine in high gear for an extended period of time. I shift to high for long straightaways only. If I try to maneuver in high gear it bogs down the motor so much it's unable to turn. Not enough torque? I believe your clutch mods will fix my ailments.

                Thanks
                Last edited by gimmegreens336; 10-06-2012, 02:31 PM.

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                • #23
                  Hey Rock - "Rock Doctor has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space."

                  lol

                  Just wanted to say thanks for the PM. If it weren't for you and a few other members I'd be hanging a For Sale sign in this beast!!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
                    Hey Rock - "Rock Doctor has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space."

                    lol

                    Just wanted to say thanks for the PM. If it weren't for you and a few other members I'd be hanging a For Sale sign in this beast!!
                    Inbox is cleaned out a little, lol.
                    Did you ever find suitable material for shimming your Primary Clutch? It's nothing special, go to any welding/machine shop or buddies garage and ask for a 5/32" 7018 or 6010 Welding rod. One welding rod will make 2 or 3 shims (NOT to be used together, ONE SHIM ONLY PER CLUTCH)

                    RD

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                    • #25
                      Wanted to post your PM too, may be helpful to others like myself.

                      Was asking RD how many turns when reassembling the secondary clutch.

                      From RD:
                      "Going to be brief, im typing this on my Cell phone
                      Depends on what hole you have your spring in, but its about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Get your Helix lined up on the shaft, it's keyed. Before you slide the helix too far down the shaft, you need to turn the top, moveable half of the clutch counterclockwise until the black slider buttons are on the right side of the helix ramps " you can see the wear marks on the buttons and ramps". Then push or tap the helix down on the shaft until the slider buttons contact the ramp faces. Install the Snap-ring on the end of the shaft to keep the helix in place.
                      The snap-ring may have a rounded edge from one side and a square edge on the other side. This is from the ring being "stamped" out of plate material when it's made. Make sure the squared edge is AWAY from the Helix, and is being pushed towards the end of the shaft. If the rounded edge is pushed toward the end of the shaft, the ring can work it's way out of the groove, and your clutch will blow apart ( ring pops off shaft, spring pushes helix off shaft, ect)"



                      It's entirely possible that the snap ring was improperly installed by a previous owner and that's why my clutch blew apart in the first place!

                      Appreciate the info RD!

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