Baker Hill Help?

[countrycummins99]

my buddy bought an attex last night and after putting new chains on he took it for a ride it was going good until it started popping out of forward every ten feet and now wont go in reverse? any help appreciated also is there any type of rebuild kit for these transmissions?

[jpswift1]

Larry was nice enough to do a write up for just such an occasion.

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/aatv-transmission-articles/2495-dissassembly-attex-7000-series-transmission.html

[countrycummins99]

yup

we looked at that we are going to take it apart and check the pucks but how do you adjust the pucks and is there a rebuild kit with seals or anything like that?

[LarryW]

we looked at that we are going to take it apart and check the pucks but how do you adjust the pucks and is there a rebuild kit with seals or anything like that?

The pucks dont have anything to do with the forward/reverse but more the brake and drive engagement. There are 1/4"allens with a 9/16ths jam nut on back of calipers. I have an exploded view of the calipers in the"How to" sections. http://www.6x6world.com/forums/aatv-...sassembly.html I turn mine in with the stick in the opposite position until snug and back of a tad. You can actually change position of the sticks with adjusting them so with some fine tuning you can get the sticks where you want them. I aim for just before the dash on full drive engagement. You will also have to play around with it to get them to match up l/r. There is also an adjustment on the rod that goes to the calipers for more stick adjustments. Be carefull because you can over tightent the pucks so they will drag and that will wear the pucks out more. Make sure you can rotate the rotors with the stick disengaged with very, very little to no drag.


For the forward/reverse thing. Mine did that and turned out to be the brass pins in the shifter fork wore down to nothing so they wouldnt move the shift collar. I was able to press them in more so they would engage again. There is also a brass pin connecting the shift fork to the shift shaft. If the gear shifter is moving more then ussual it would be that pin. If the shifter appears to move normal but isnt movine anything then the pin in the fork are bad. btw, mine wore from running the darn thing with no oil. I never checked it and probably relieved it that way. Simple thing to forget I guess.

When I tore mine apart I was carefull and didnt buy any seals or anything when I reinstalled it. Even though I ran it dry of oil, no damage either. Bearing and everything seemed fine.
Any more questions I will gladly try to help.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!

[countrycummins99]

thankyou

thanks so much for your help i am sure it will be quite eye opening when we pull it apart the other question is where are those pins located on the inside or outside of the trans im assuming inside because you said about having no oil in it? how should i check the pucks to see if their bad pull them out and check the thickness of the material? also should i look for anything else when i pull it apart? thanks in advance!!!!

[LarryW]

where are those pins located on the inside or outside of the trans

Yea, there inside. If it is the case, I think you can probably get them at any good hardware store. Rods of it in like 12" lengths or something. I saw them but didnt need to buy any.

How should i check the pucks to see if their bad pull them out and check the thickness of the material? also should i look for anything else when i pull it apart? thanks in advance!!!!

When they get bad the caliper will rub on the rotor because the puck is so thin it wont hit even at full adjustment out. You can tell if its getting close if there fully adjusted and the caliper is close to hitting the rotor. I have also had some get thin enough to fall out and wedge themselves between there crooked. It worked an normall untile it flew out. Then nothing but the aluminum housing on the caliper hitting the rotor.

You will have to mess with all the pucks when you pull the trans out. If the calipers are working good I would just leave the tranny cradle in the machine. When reinstalling the trans, loosen all the pucks to help align the rotors in the calipers. The bearing caps and frame are number so you can match them back up when reinstalling them.
I believe 1/4" is measurement of the pucks thickness when new. I never really measure the thinest runable. I would guess 1/8" is way beyond usable. If that helps any.

I would make sure the calipers slide back and forth easily in the frame and that the caliper lever works good. Thats the only things I can think of to look for when its out.

[countrycummins99]

thanks again

thanks for all the info i a, positive it will come in handy next week when we pull it out the other thing is the guy had this attex set up for racing it has a twin carb 440 polaris motor in is that ok to run with the baker hill or should i have him downgrade the motor or swap he trans all together

[LarryW]

thanks for all the info i a, positive it will come in handy next week when we pull it out the other thing is the guy had this attex set up for racing it has a twin carb 440 polaris motor in is that ok to run with the baker hill or should i have him downgrade the motor or swap he trans all together

Glad to help.

I wouldnt worry about the engine. Other then shifting problems I havent heard of anything else that goes wrong. I have never heard of any gear issues and such. A twin 440 polaris sounds fun!