T-20 dissassembly

[Mike]

Where is the post of the transmission rebuild? I have looked on over and over and never found that.

It is in the how-to section near the bottom of the forum categories.

[Don]

Duckhunt conveyed what I was trying to without much luck. The steel plate is in between the two case halves and you should be able to find enough misalignment to knock it loose from the case it's stuck to.

[ericood]

Thanks for all the help now that I looked at the pictures I saw what needed to be done. Soooooo I hung it just off the bench so I could tap on the plate as everyone was saying and as I lifted it the right side fell off!!! I pulled tapped pryed a little and nothing then it just came apart, figures. Now for a little question for you guys, Are the brake bands supposed to have some sort of lining? The ones in the drive side are just the steel bands and I have not had a chance to take off the plate to see the other side. The drums I can see are still smooth so that's a good sign. I have to travel for a few days so I won't get to work on it till next week. I guess it's been sitting for years now what's another few days!

[Mike]

They should have a lining but it is VERY thin. The how-to article should have some pictures showing the lining.

[ericood]

Thanks Mike I'll look quick before I head out in the morning, would be nice not to need them they seem pretty costly. Where's the best place for repair parts?

[Mike]

The factory is your best bet. Amphibious Six-Wheel Drive All-Terrain Vehicles: MaxATVs - Call 1-800-255-2511

Just talk to Dan or Jay

[Rolling_X_6]

The factory is your best bet. Amphibious Six-Wheel Drive All-Terrain Vehicles: MaxATVs - Call 1-800-255-2511

Just talk to Dan or Jay

How much does it cost to buy the rebuild kit(s) that you need??? Does anyone know??? I will soon be doing that myself; I'm afraid.

Aren't there different types of rebuild kits available to accomplish various degrees of rebuilding / to solve various problems that you might run into??? Seals and gaskets??? Bearings??? Bands??? Etc???

How much do you think it would cost to buy the kit(s) needed to do a complete rebuild???

I am not sure if I know enough to even ask the correct questions here. But, hopefully, you know what I am getting at.

Thanks.

[Mike]

I think the complete seals / thrust washers kit is about $50 but don't hold me to that. It wasn't much. That is the only "kit" that you need. Then you just order anything else that you need on a case-by-case basis. If you have a worn band then you order it. If you have a ruined drum then you order it, etc. The main bearings come separately too. If everything is working and the T20 is leaking oil then just order the seal kit. If the T20 isn't working then just order the part you need and while you are in there also get a seal kit too since it is fairly cheap and you are already in there.

Hope that helped.

[Rolling_X_6]

That does help. I didn't know how that worked.

Thanks, Mike.

[ericood]

I'm back. Well one thing I found which I didn't see in the rebuild section is the needle bearings on the input shaft. They are loose and fall out when I pulled the shaft is that right? Also I have been looking and I see most T-20's don't have large brake disk on both outputs, Should I go threw the trouble of cleaning,paint and pads and what ever or should I just leave then off? What about 2 "O" rings on the plungers, mine only has 1 each. Should I have them machined in? or will it be fine for a few years as is?

[Mike]

You have an older model T20. There have been different variations of T20s over the 40+ years of production so that's why you see the differences compared to the how-to article. That isn't a good or a bad thing. Some people prefer the older ones anyway since they don't utilize the C-channel. If I were you I would just rebuild it the way it is and put it back to stock. The only change that I would think of making are the dual o-ring plungers. It wouldn't take but a couple of minutes to machine in the second groove or you could purchase new plungers. Either way.

But ultimately that is up to you and you would be fine if you chose not to and just reassembled it with single o-rings. They may last you 20 years without leaking. Who knows.

[ericood]

Thanks Mike. I see a lot about rebuilding and mention of be sure the plungers don't come out to far. What is to far? My bands look to be the same and there is no marks on the drums at all just a mark where the bands ran and I'm sure that would come off with a little scotch bright.

[Mike]

I see a lot about rebuilding and mention of be sure the plungers don't come out to far. What is to far?

You don't want the orings on the plungers to go inside of the housing. If you happen to let one of them slip past the plunger sleeve it has a really sharp edge on it that will cut the oring when you try to pull the plunger back into the sleeve towards the outside of the T20.

[LarryW]

You don't want the orings on the plungers to go inside of the housing. If you happen to let one of them slip past the plunger sleeve it has a really sharp edge on it that will cut the oring when you try to pull the plunger back into the sleeve towards the outside of the T20.

All the machines I find dont have t-20 and I dont have a hole lot of experience with them but, cant you take that edge off some. I mean would that be a tip if you ever take it apart before re assembly. Or is that way to far anyways and shouldn't be adjusted that far to begin with?
Someday I hope to get a t-20 machine.