Baker Hill 7000 belt change

[Duke]

how do you get the belt off a Baker Hill 7000 in an attex ST/300/D the belt I have on there is too skinny im sure I would figure it out I just dont want to unbolt anything I dont have to. It looks like it would take some time to change it but im not sure any help would be great

[LarryW]

Hey Duke,
You will have to pull the tranny out to do it. Remove the chains. Take the end bearing caps off. Notice they are stamped to match them back up when your done. If there not stamped mark them so you can put them back in same spot because they are machined to match the transmission cradle. Then then 4 bolts on the transmission. It does help to if you loosen all the brake pucks up. Especially when you put the transmission back in. When they are adjusted all the way back they stay put in the calipers easier. Keep a flat head screwdriver in reach when your setting the transmission back in, incase they pop out. When its out, its a good time to replace the brake pucks if needed. Some people buy 2 belts and slip both on but zip tie one out of the way for future belt replacement but I personally havent done it. I dont eat belts up and have never had one explode or shred. Higher reving 2 stokes might? But thats not a bad Idea if you go through a lot of belts but if not, I personally would rather put a new fresh belt on then the old belt thats been on the machine for years.

[Duke]

Thanks Larry I kind of thought thats what I had to do. Looks like I have some work to do this weekend. I could leave it the way it is but I want to get a little more speed out of it there is a bit of a gap in the primary clutch to the belt and it takes a higher RPM to get it to close on the belt to go. it almost sounds easier to replace the springs with weaker ones on the primary clutch to get it to close faster at low RPMs

[LarryW]

Thinner belt will also sit lower in the secondary making it higher in the primary. That really affects the low end grunt. When you get the new belt on there it will take off so much better.

[Duke]

I put the new wider belt on it wasnt too hard to do (thanks for the help Larry) and now this thing really moves. Now and heres the next question and I know Larry will know this how much abuse can the BH 7000 take I just dont want to break it I have heard the 5000 isnt that strong I dont know about the 7000

[LarryW]

Glad to hear the belt went good! Just curious, what size belt did you use and was it a direct fit or did you have to relocate the motor or anything?

With the 7000, I have seen have only seen 2 problems. The first one I have seen a few different times. A little pin breaking on the shaft/shift fork. The one machine I think it was from it sitting for25yrs or so and the shifting collar rusting up a bit or something causing extra pressure to shift. The other I heard on the net, he couldn't get it to shift so I figured it was same thing and he tore it apart and it was but not sure how that happen. Probably not a big thing to worry about.
The other issue I experienced was I purchase one and throw it in and drove it all over. Then it wouldnt shift into any gear, the lever would but something inside want working. I took it apart and it was the brass pins that go in the collar wore down. That was 100% neglect though because when I went to tear it apart there was no oil in the thing. I was able to press the original pin in more so they engage the shift collar and it has worked great ever since. So after running it with no oil, the only thing to go was the brass pins. And was a free fix, just labor to tear down. I haven't had or heard of any other problems. I don't run high horse motors but I do get a little abusive at times. I use to baby it but as I learned how to fix them and knowing I have a few extra parts in case carnage does happen, I find it a lot funner to drive it like rental.

[Duke]

I took the belt off and brought it to an auto parts store in town and just told them I needed a cvt belt that was the same diameter but wider about an inch wide and they found one for me im not sure of the size of the belt but the increased width made the belt fit kind of tight because it sits higher in the secondary now but it seems to work ok there was also just a little bit of torque lost when I changed the belt but it shouldnt hurt the performance of the machine it still climbes like nothing I have ever seen and now with the extra speed the wheels spin it seems to be able to climb stuff it was never able to climb before. I did have to re drill the holes in the front bracket on the motor because it sat a little crooked and the belt would bind when the primary closed but its fine now. I wanted to ask the durability question because it seems every time I get behind the controls I cant help but drive it like a rental

[LarryW]

...the increased width made the belt fit kind of tight because it sits higher in the secondary now

Hey Duke,
If you are worried your belt is too tight, you may be able to shim the motor. I has to do that and I just used washers. Also if you space out your driven the slightest it will loosen your belt. You can use the little half clips that snap on the shaft inside between the clutch face to hold them apart.

If it shifts forward and reverse ok at idle it is probably ok. When it is to tight it will not stop the tranny from spinning and you wont be able to shift gears without grinding them.

[Duke]

it seems to shift gears ok there is a little ting sound when you shift but it made that sound when it had the thin loose belt on so I dont think it should be a problem

[LarryW]

it seems to shift gears ok there is a little ting sound when you shift but it made that sound when it had the thin loose belt on so I dont think it should be a problem

Sweet!! Sounds great. What are the numbers on the belt?

Mine makes that same tinking sound. I think it is the planetary gears and is amplified by the rotor.

[Duke]

the belt is a GATES PL30071

[LarryW]

ok, thanks,
1 3/16" x 40 7/8"
It is 2 wide for me. Im running a gates 1626v428 that is 1"x43". It is a tad to wide, I should have a 15/16". But I shimmed my driven and it works great.

[Attex Owner]

I think I have the same machine as Duke, as I have the baker hill tranny in an old attex. I have a similar problem with my belt, I think it is a little too wide because it rubs on the left brakeing rod, so I thought that if I got a slightly thinner belt, that could fix the problem, because it would sit lower in the clutch. But right now my main problem is steering, whenever I try to brake one side, the machine just will not move. All I can think of is trial and error adjusting the brakes. Anyone have some specific advice?

[LarryW]

I think I have the same machine as Duke, as I have the baker hill tranny in an old attex. I have a similar problem with my belt, I think it is a little too wide because it rubs on the left brakeing rod, so I thought that if I got a slightly thinner belt, that could fix the problem, because it would sit lower in the clutch. But right now my main problem is steering, whenever I try to brake one side, the machine just will not move. All I can think of is trial and error adjusting the brakes. Anyone have some specific advice?

If the drive clutch is wide enough to handle the belt you could put some shims in the driven clutch to spread them apart. Either a bigger snap ring shim that slips in the main shaft or 3 little ones that will slip on the 3 bolts in there. Once they are spread a part the belt will fit in the pulley better. But then the belt will get loose and you will have to tighted it up by putting shims in the motor mounts also. After doing all that it might be better to get a new belt.

As far the the not moving thing. Will it move at all. Is it one side or both. Does it just bogg down to nothing when you turn? It could all be down to your belt. If it is wrong you could lose your low range in the cvt system. Kind of like taking of in 2nd gear in a bike/quad/car. No guts. Try to explain it better. Maybe just an adjustment of the pucks also?