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Finally making progress on an old Attex with a 6000 transmission. Engine running fairly well, new chains, tires that hold air for an hour or two and so on. The trouble I am having is in the right stick. I adjust it to engage, and in about 20 feet the right stick is against the dash and I am not getting any right side forward motion. This happened two times now. The disks are fairly rusty, and I thought they would "self clean" from driving. The disk pads are used and some are doubled to get enough width. I did run the allen set screws in some, assuming the goal is to get the pads close to dragging on the discs. Is there any setup procedure for this trans? Thanks in advance for any tips!
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I had a Baker Hill 6000 Power Transmission in my 1st gen Attex racer and I just got lucky when we were all dialing it in right before the race at Ashtabula last year so I can't really tell you all that much, but I can suggest that you contact Larry W. He is the 1st gen Attex expert and he'd certainly be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck with it."Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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Hey Groundhog
There are a total of 4 adjusters, 2 on each side. One for brake, one for drive. The drive one is the inside one and you need to adjust that in. On old machines I have had to clean up the calipers to get the adjusters working right, Crud build up inside the adjuster. I made a how to to help.
The trick to adjusting them is to have the drive and brake side equal on both sides and to where the sticks should be. You can have a tight setup but the if the brake side is adjusted to much your stick will be working in a more forward position and opposite..... What I do is hold the stick to where I want neutral, then with a bit driver, turn the screws in both side to you get pressure on them. Then loosen one side of the caliper a bit. Do the same for the other side of the machine.
If your rotors are rusted real badly you may want to manual sand them down. They will eat up a good set of pucks quickly. To sand them get sandpaper or emery cloth on them with chains off and engine running. Work the sticks to position for the rotor your working with. Be careful, somethings I do are probably not safe.
Maybe staple some sandpaper to a stick or something might be safer. Doubling them up works until they fit through the crack and jam in the rotor and caliper.
If your sticks are sticky, you can manually spin a small drill bit in the oil holes in the calipers. That will help clean up any gunk in the there. I like to spray wd40 in there too because it helps clean crap out. Brake cleaner would probably work better but make sure you dont use anything that melts abs. Then I use motor oil once cleaned.
Hope you get her going and good luck!Comment
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Thanks, I am getting syked to figure this thing out. The short bursts I got to drive it already made me happy that I put the work effort into it. I think I may need to pull the center carrage out "again" and check everything. Does anyone get the discs cut or cleaned up on these? I have new pads from a board member that I should put in, just can't find them! I suppose putting several worn pads in to make enough width is a bad idea! I think at this point I am begging for Larry W. to show up with some tips sometime! I will buy you lunch at Ashtabula!Comment
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Hey Groundhog, I posted my tips just a tad before you. Boy am I quick, lol. Good timing I guess.Originally posted by Groundhog View Post
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Wow Larry, you are quick! You already were answering my questions before I could get them typed! There must be some Attex ESP at work here. I guess magic powers get involved when you are caring for an old Attex! Thanks very much for the tips! The high speed sanding sounds like a blast! I bet I wiped out some pads on that rusty disc. There was smoke coming off it after a short ride! I havn't been able to get grease in the little holes on the sides of the discs. Is it ok to take a drill bit in there by hand? Thanks again!Comment
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The spirit is within. lol
The rotors really don't spin that fast. But its the best way I have found without removing them at least.
When I said manually on the drill bit I mean to spin it in with your fingers. I wont ruin anything.
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Larry, Thanks very much for the setup tips! I sanded the rotors as you explained, that worked great! I tore everything down and cleaned the calipers out. Put all new pads in with no double stacking. After some trial and error I was able to get things adjusted as you explained. Wow, that old setup has a really nice feel to it. The light weight of the machine is also a very noticable factor! I ran thru a tank of gas today and had a blast! Thanks again to you and the folks that provide this site!Comment
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Update on progress: Getting more use out of the machine and trying different carbs to get better performance. I am having trouble controlling the machine when I get the power level up. It seems like the 6000 is slipping even with the sticks pushed hard forward. When I get to ~3/4 throttle the machine wants to hook either left or right rather quickly. Anyone have any idea's on why this may be happening? Is it possible to exceed the holding force of the pucks? I am using N.O.S. pucks and I think I am adjusting things correctly ( Thanks Larry). Is there a better material to make pucks from that grab better? Any tips or suggestions appreciated!Comment
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