Top plungers "pop" into the t-20 with video

[arp35]

I finally rebuilt the T-20 yesterday and finished installing it into the Hustler. Added all the chains and adjusters. Connected the drive rods to the the u-channels on the T-20. Here is my question...when I push forward on the sticks the top plungers move about a 1/8" then both will suddenly "pop" further in. Are the plungers going to far inside the case and pushing past the o-ring? Or the bands just releasing themselves from the drums? All four bands are new. Prior to rebuilding the T-20, I remember that it did this "pop" back then as well, so it is not a "new" sound since the rebuild. Also during the rebuild I could not get the top plungers to push "by hand" from the inside to the outside in order to put the o-rings on. It was too tight of a fit. But I manage to put the o-rings on and gently push them in without tearing the o-ring. So does anyone know what the "pop" is on the top plungers? Do I need to adjust them so when I push forward they don't get to the point where they "pop"? I don't have the engine installed so I can't drive it to see what the effect is during operation. Please watch the video for a better explanation. Thanks,
Al

[Guy]

Seems like the bolts are threaded out a bit too far. Have you tried to spin an axle or tire and see if the brake band stops it?
On my own note, I just finished rebuilding the T20 in my Hustler 900, and the RH lower plunger seems sticky, or hard.

[Mike]

The pop I believe is caused by the slop in the U-channel design not pushing the plungers in straight? It is noticeable on every T20 that I have driven with the U-channels.

[arp35]

The pop I believe is caused by the slop in the U-channel design not pushing the plungers in straight? It is noticeable on every T20 that I have driven with the U-channels.

So I shouldn't worry about it or probably just wait till I can actually test drive it? To answer "Guy", I am going to get the chains all lined up and then lock the eccentric collars. Once I get it all locked down, I am going to put the wheels/tires on and then it will be easier to test the bands.

[Mike]

It is nothing to worry about. I was trying to search the site for the thread that talked about this before but I can not find it right now. I believe Model Citizen was the one telling us about this and the difference between the U-channel T20 and the older models. If I see it I will link back to it here.

[arp35]

It is nothing to worry about. I was trying to search the site for the thread that talked about this before but I can not find it right now. I believe Model Citizen was the one telling us about this and the difference between the U-channel T20 and the older models. If I see it I will link back to it here.

Thanks Mike... On a different note, I ran the chain over the top of the tension sprockets on both sides leading to the transmission. But I noticed in my older pictures that the chain was actually running under the tensioning sprockets then to the clutch sprockets. Which way is correct or does it not matter?

[Mike]

Chain under the idler sprockets is the stock / correct way.

[arp35]

Chain under the idler sprockets is the stock / correct way.

Ok... I will fix it. By the way, the rebuild on the T-20 was a little more difficult then I expected. Especially toward the end when I had to get the last drum with the gears in the right side. Also, a couple of notes pertaining to your tutorial. You don't mention installing the 1st c-clip (oh jesus clips) on the main shaft. The c-clip should probably follow the installation of the snap ring. Also, my T-20 doesn't use the washers with the dog ears. I am not sure why but the dog ear washers were not designed to work with my T-20. So I used the two large flat washers that were previously on the shaft. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to do your tutorial. I printed it out and followed it page by page but got a little confused about when to install the first c-clip. It may be because you refer to retainer rings twice so I was confused about whether or not you were talking about c-clips or the snap ring. Either way it was tremendously helpful...thanks.

[Model Citizen]

I believe Model Citizen was the one telling us about this and the difference between the U-channel T20 and the older models.

Not sure, but I think this is the link Mike was referring to. Page 29 & 30.

Bridget

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-atvs/491-max-springer-29.html

[Uncle Vin]

Seems like the bolts are threaded out a bit too far. Have you tried to spin an axle or tire and see if the brake band stops it?
On my own note, I just finished rebuilding the T20 in my Hustler 900, and the RH lower plunger seems sticky, or hard.

I agree. the transmission is not adjusted correctly. In fact, I hope your plungers are not going in too far, If they are, you could tear an o-ring. Re-read the adjustment section of the online re-build manual. On a side note, it would be very helpful if someone posted a video on how to properly adjust the T-20. It took a long time for me to figure it out. Uncle Vin

[arp35]

I agree. the transmission is not adjusted correctly. In fact, I hope your plungers are not going in too far, If they are, you could tear an o-ring. Re-read the adjustment section of the online re-build manual. On a side note, it would be very helpful if someone posted a video on how to properly adjust the T-20. It took a long time for me to figure it out. Uncle Vin

I don't disagree. I am sure I need to go through the adjustment process again. Once I get the wheels back on then I will re-tweak the plungers. It seems the bottom plungers are moving in/out without any problems it is just the top ones that "pop" due to the strange angle. But I don't think the top plungers are going to far in to cut the o-rings but I will double check. Is the "clutch tool" that RR sells worth the moola?

[Uncle Vin]

I don't disagree. I am sure I need to go through the adjustment process again. Once I get the wheels back on then I will re-tweak the plungers. It seems the bottom plungers are moving in/out without any problems it is just the top ones that "pop" due to the strange angle. But I don't think the top plungers are going to far in to cut the o-rings but I will double check. Is the "clutch tool" that RR sells worth the moola?

He sells two different tools. The "clutch tool" is used to get a secondary (driven) clutch off the transmission. It works well. The other tools are the plunger adjustment tools. They work well also. He just recently posted intructions on his website on how to use the adjustment tools. It's worth a read. I obviously purchased both of the tools. No complaints. Uncle Vin

And yes, I believe that the plunger adjustment tools are worth the $25 it costs to buy them. Uncle Vin