Electronic Split Shift

[Stonewall]

Has anyone ever tried to set up a t-20 split shifter with a pair of linear solenoids or actuators? I think that a switch and solenoid/actuator for each side would be much easier to install and use, as well as take up less space. Thoughts?

[6X6]

Hmm. You'd need 3 position actuators, F-N-R, so they may be pricey. Also would need to be strong enough to shift positively, but since they don't have the "feel" you do, you'll need some sort of give so it doesn't do damage if tranny is in tooth-on-tooth position when you try to shift. (I've broke a pin, as have many members, some broken shifting collars too...) Just my first thoughts. If it was spring-overridden, that should do it, but gotta say, push-button shifting on a T-20 machine WOULD be cool.

[amphibious drew]

I like the push button idea. It seems like a nice luxury item to have on a machine. If it were to somehow simulate the "rollback" of the machine that we do to disengage the transmission before shifting, I think it would work great. It would be a luxury though and luxury's can be weak points where mechanical failures occur. If you decide to try and build one, I would get heavy duty parts for it.

[6X6]

.... It would be a luxury though and luxury's can be weak points where mechanical failures occur. If you decide to try and build one, I would get heavy duty parts for it.

Or understand that in the event of a failure, you'll have to lift the hood and engage gears manually, unless you have something setup to override it from the seat.

[Stonewall]

I think that magnetically operated solenoids will work best, they are faster moving and I think that being magnets will have a little more forgivness than an electirc motor geared to an actuator.

[LarryW]

The pins in the diamond shifter would be pressing on the shift collar constantly and they would wear out quick unless you can limit the actuator some other way. Maybe with some adjustable screw attached to some fabbed up bracket on each side of the diamond. Then you can adjust it just right with the screw hitting the diamond taking the pressure instead of the pins.

[Stonewall]

I'm not sure I follow what you're saying. What I envisioned was a solenoid that with no power to it is spring loaded to center, then power to and electormagnent on either end moves it to either foreward or reverse. It would use a 3 pos. ON-OFF-ON switch of each side (F-N-R).

[LarryW]

Sorry if its confusing. Basically what I am saying is if there is pressure all the time on the shifter diamond it will wear the shifter pin. You need to come up with a way so there is not pressure holding it to the shifters maximum travel.

[Bw6]

I hope you don't mind me putting my $.02 in on this topic because when I first looked at a T-20 a few years back and thought about using it in one of my weird designs. I was struck about how inflexible the positioning of the T-20 was. Meaning it generally had to be located ahead of the motor, no matter where you would like to install it because of the lateral inputs required for steering.

Ok here is where it gets a little far out, but I thought that I would do the "fly-by-wire" deal. By using 12v feedback actuators and a joystick I would be able to use a joystick to give me precise directional control using the T-20. It would also require some programing using a PLC (programmable logic controller), which are very rugged, compact, inexpensive, and easy to program. That way any input from the joystick would correspond to a movement of actuator that would give me the desired steering direction. It may sound really far out, but it's not really.

Of course because of the remote location of the T-20, F-N-R would be using 12v actuators as well but not the feedback type, just the normal ones with the limit switches at end of stroke. To stop the jamming and pressure (damage) to the T-20, I was going to incorporate a spring type (like Richards easy shift kit), so the actuator would go full stroke but if it didn't engage the spring pressure would be ready to engage it when it was ready (in mesh).

[jerseybigfoot]

A little off subject but interesting.
My springer racer has the t-20 located in back of the engine which is in the nose of machine. Rather than build the trans for that position they just turned the trans up side down with the diamond shifter on the bottom. This was raced many years this way with 80 hp 10,000 rpm Sachs engine and stayed together.


The right and left half of the t-20 are mirror images and the input shaft could be configured to drive from the opposite side.

[Bw6]

A little off subject but interesting.
My springer racer has the t-20 located in back of the engine which is in the nose of machine. Rather than build the trans for that position they just turned the trans up side down with the diamond shifter on the bottom. This was raced many years this way with 80 hp 10,000 rpm Sachs engine and stayed together.


The right and left half of the t-20 are mirror images and the input shaft could be configured to drive from the opposite side.

Well, well, who would've thought of that, nice solution.

[Stonewall]

Sorry if its confusing. Basically what I am saying is if there is pressure all the time on the shifter diamond it will wear the shifter pin. You need to come up with a way so there is not pressure holding it to the shifters maximum travel.

I think I understand what you're getting at now, an adjustable stop to prevent overengagment.

To stop the jamming and pressure (damage) to the T-20, I was going to incorporate a spring type (like Richards easy shift kit), so the actuator would go full stroke but if it didn't engage the spring pressure would be ready to engage it when it was ready (in mesh).

I don't know if it's stock, but my Hustler already has something similar to this in place; I think all I need is a 3 pos solenoid that centers itself when there is no power to it.

[LarryW]

Another solution for the t-20 in back might be by using the JB advengers setup. Remember that is the unknown one I was trying to ID a while back. I made a video of it. The linkage is in the back of the T-20.

[Bw6]

I think I understand what you're getting at now, an adjustable stop to prevent overengagment.



I don't know if it's stock, but my Hustler already has something similar to this in place; I think all I need is a 3 pos solenoid that centers itself when there is no power to it.

I just looked up a 3 position solenoid that is spring centered when the power is off, force up to 100 lbs, but stroke is 1". I can't remember what stroke it takes to shift from say neutral to forward. But if 1" was enough then if you attached to the "easy shift" spring that you already have, it could work.

[Stonewall]

I just looked up a 3 position solenoid that is spring centered when the power is off, force up to 100 lbs, but stroke is 1". I can't remember what stroke it takes to shift from say neutral to forward. But if 1" was enough then if you attached to the "easy shift" spring that you already have, it could work.

Could you post a link to this solenoid? I haven't been able to find one yet. I could make it work with 1" of travel with the right leverage. Since it's 100lbs of force I think it'll handle it, but I wonder about having to leave it on to stay engaged; don't want it to overheat. Maybe a resistor of some kind?