T-20 Woes.....

[Stonewall]

Well, I have just about had it with the #!$#@!*&$#@ T-20 in my Hustler. I have spent $800 on internal parts, gaskets, seals, and O-rings!! But there is a persistant leak from the bottom plunger on the clutch side that I can't seem to stop. I have put fresh O-rings on it, honed it, vasolined it when I put it together, but it still leaks!! What am I doing wrong?? I have the new style T-20 with the C channel levers.(it also has a bolt broken off in the case...) I would rather have an old style one with the bolt on levers, but I have so much invested in this one. Will the internals from a new style T-20 fit in and old style?(Drums, bands, bearings, input shaft, output shafts, etc.)

[Mike]

Just thinking out loud with you, did you put the right size o-ring on? Do you have dual o-rings or just single?

[Stonewall]

I have single O-rings, and I got them from R.I. The thing is, the plunger on the other side doesn't leak, and it has the exact same kind of O-ring.

[wfo]

try getting the plunger with 2 o-rings and if that dosent work
you might have a worn out side case

[msafi65]

Are you pushing the plunger out the front of the case and then installing the o-ring? I find a lot installed first and nicked when pushed into the case from the inside. Bevel the outside of the plunger hole and install o-ring outside the case. Most of the flat bar t-20s didnt have fiber thrust washers. Iv'e machined old drums to thrust washer dimensions and used in new cases. I think the guts will fit in all because the part number for the flat bar changes to the new case as a replacement.

[6 WHEELS OR BUST]

I would try AT-205. It's available at some parts stores. Excellent at swelling seals and o-rings to slow & or stop leaks. They use it on buses around here & in my opinion it works very well.

[Stonewall]

I did install the o-rings from the outside; in fact, I did everything exactly as Mike's T-20 rebuild article said to.

I will try that AT-205 first, since it seems like the simplest option.

[jerbear]

Just my opinion.

First of all that SUCKS! I tearing down a t-20 right now, and knock on wood, hope NOT to have any problems. I personally don't use ANY petroleum based products (vasoline, baby oil, etc.) on o-rings. O-rings will absorb these products and make them swell, which may sound like a good thing, but actually is NOT. Assuming you have the right o-ring, it should be the right "size", and doesn't need to swell to make the seal. Really all you want it to do is slide. I've seen where orings swell to the point that they are not sliding, but rolling and twisting in the groove. They swell so much that they are "wiping" away all the vasoline also. What I'll be using on my o-rings is Jack's 327. I'm in the swimming pool biz, where o-rings really take a beating (water, chlorine) and this stuff works great. Made just for o-rings. Won't make them swell. I've seen where people use vasoline and the orings have swollen so much that they are too big, and some that used vasoline and it's fine. I'm not gonna take the chance and just use this stuff. It ain't cheap, but it works GREAT!!! Long lasting, silicone based. You can pick some up at any pool store.

Jack's Formula 327 Pool O-ring Lube

[Stonewall]

The thing is that I don't think the o-ring is the problem, because the other three aren't leaking at all. And what is really strange is that I put it together a month and a half ago, and it has been sitting on my frame where I have been (slowly) adding bracing to hold it in there better, but it didn't start leaking until a week ago, and then leaked out half a quart overnight!!!

[onlyonce]

Check to see if your t20 case uses the epoxied in liners for the o rings rather then just holes bored in the case. Sometimes the liners loosen up and fluid leaks between liners and case making it hard to tell just where the leak is coming from. If so they will have to be re epoxied. Also next time you have the case apart use the 2 oring plungers and polish and radius the inside edges of the holes just in case you push the plungers and orings inside case after its together that way you can pull them out without causing any damage.

[demo61x]

I was about to say the same thing. mine are epoxied in liners too. clean and watch in detail were its coming from, might be easyier to put on work bench.

[racerone3]

I had a similar issue with the T-20 that is currently in my Bigfoot (used in 3 machines and 3 full tear downs in 6 months to find the problem). Finally found that one of the plungers was drilled/ tapped too far and had a hole all the way through. It would be fine for a while, but eventually fluid would start to seep out around the adjuster threads.

[lewis]

If you want to know quickly use florescent dye and a black lite. I use this at work to find hydraulic leaks. works great and takes all the guess work out of it. It's not real expensive.

Spectroline.com - Industrial - Fluorescent Dyes is a very good one and can be purchased in many different colors for specific application. The yellow/green works very well for detection. Can be purchased in small bottles.

Hope this offers some help.

[amphibious drew]

If you want to know quickly use florescent dye and a black lite. I use this at work to find hydraulic leaks. works great and takes all the guess work out of it. It's not real expensive.

Spectroline.com - Industrial - Fluorescent Dyes is a very good one and can be purchased in many different colors for specific application. The yellow/green works very well for detection. Can be purchased in small bottles.

Hope this offers some help.

I might even try a highlighter first...even cheaper and you probably have one laying around. I never used it for this application, but it was pretty cool in an old vodka bottle filled with water under black lights back in college.

Fyi, i'm only assuming this is possibly, for all i know the stuff lewis is talking about can be run with the atf in it. If this is the case, please assume i new that and am only joking.

[mike454]

yep i agree with lewis on the UV dye.....
I too use it at the shop for finding A/C leaks,engine oil,trans ect.
It takes out all the guess work,and also if it ever springs another leak it'll show up also,well until you change the fluid anyways.
You can buy a little AA powered u/v light at autozone for around 10 bucks,and the dye bottles are like 8.00 for enough to do 2 transmissions.
It's not a big professional light or kit like we use,but for the do it yourselfer,it'll work great....just turn off the lights after you have ran it long enough to leak with the dye added to the fluid,and wallah,leak pinpointed....and you won't believe how good it shows up in the dark...it glows brite yellow or green.

Oh yea make sure to get the dye that works in an automatic transmission,,,,