Any one using CVTech Clutches?

[maicolover]

Was wondering if any of you are using CV Tech clutches on your machines. And now they compare to old ones! Our old driven Salsbury 9 7/8" is worn out and needs replaced. Also putting in a Kawasaki 620CC twin 4 cycle engine in place of the old JLO295 and want to make sure we get right combination! It has a new Kaw. Clutch on it, as it came off a Kawasaki mule RTV.

Thanks

[wfo]

Yes...GOLIATH has drive and driven...that setup seems to be ok but at idle
the drive clutch hammers because the way its designed...see if you cant find their
site and you will see what im talking about

[kghills]

I ordered a CVTech drive and driven clutch plus a belt for the Max IV today from Jay at RI. I cant seem to get the older stock unit to engage like I want and I really do not want to invest any money in a clutch setup that is not in existence as I feel parts will just keep getting harder to come by. I will post my impressions and some photos of the install as it takes shape.

Keith.

[mudbug3]

Keith

There is not doubt that the CV-Tech clutch is better than the Clutch that you have now on your Max IV.

[kghills]

A box from Jay at RI arrived today with the latest clutch for the Max IV. Here are pictures of the CVTech primary and driven clutches along with the CVTech belt used on the Max IV. The clutch is custom calibrated just for the Max IV.



If nothing else it does look cooler than my old clutch, I hope it works better. Jay included an alignment tool, extra washer, new bolts and pictures to help me with the swap. This made me glad I purchased the clutch directly from RI. They have great customer support and Jay is always more than helpful.

Keith.

[mudbug3]

Jay is VERY helpful!

[Noel Woods]

My Super Swamp Fox diesel has a CV Tech clutch. It works like it should, no complaints but it was kind of pricey.

[wfo]

you will be happy with this new setup, the part i like is the drive clutch
can be taken apart so belt can be removed, all you have to do is remove the bolt
and then that big nut and slid the outer part off, make sure the nut goes back on
with the notch inwards, be carfull of the 3 big weights when removing, their shaped different
from top and bottom so they slid properly in outer cover to engage belt..

[kghills]

you will be happy with this new setup, the part i like is the drive clutch
can be taken apart so belt can be removed, all you have to do is remove the bolt
and then that big nut and slid the outer part off, make sure the nut goes back on
with the notch inwards, be careful of the 3 big weights when removing, their shaped different
from top and bottom so they slid properly in outer cover to engage belt..

Cool, thanks for the heads up on the drive clutch. This is the third time I have had the engine and trans out of the Max since I purchased it in May and each time the belt alignment, removal and installation becomes the biggest hustle. Nice to know I can get the engine aligned and shimmed and leave it there.

Keith.

[onlyonce]

Your best bet on a Max IV is to leave the engine attached to the engine stand and pull the two out as a unit. Saves a lot of time.

[kghills]

Your best bet on a Max IV is to leave the engine attached to the engine stand and pull the two out as a unit. Saves a lot of time.

That's how I have been doing it.



Just found that to get the belt tension as tight as I wanted it I was shimming the motor up 3/8 of an inch and it was impossible to roll the belt on and off the driven clutch. If I can unbolt the drive clutch half to instal the belt, heck that's worth the price of the CVTech clutch for that feature alone to me.

Keith.

[MaxRules]

Very cool upgrade, Keith. I hope that puts the power to the ground. Let us know how they work as soon as you can do some testing. I believe Jim with the modded blue Max at the Badlands had CVTech clutches.

[Hogneck]

I am very satisfied with my CV Clutch on my 18 HP Briggs Max IV. 25'' goodyears whirl around on hard ground hills are a breeze now. I also installed the red spring in the old driven unit on T-20. I plow snow with ease and my speed is relative for the machine. I have been away from it all summer,but resumed six wheel'n this past weekend .Man I have missed it !! I am ready for the rest of the seasons. The only thing I have noticed with my upgrade is the belt will give a little squeal at idle.I goose the throttle to stop it ,may be to tight or a tinge out of alignment since last winter.The belt looks good.Time to grease and oil anyways so I will check on that. So far the old driven is doing fine . Very pleased with her and 6x6 World for all the help and knowledge.

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[thebuggyman1]

Very cool upgrade, Keith. I hope that puts the power to the ground. Let us know how they work as soon as you can do some testing. I believe Jim with the modded blue Max at the Badlands had CVTech clutches.

I bought a set of clutches from R.I. also. The Invance secondary for the extra clearance, and the PB80 hoping that it would be set up right and I wouldn't need to mess with it. Well, it WAS a good theory. The Kohler 40 must have just a little too much power for it's calibration. At the start, it engages properly, but is sluggish to advance till I get to the 2500-2800 rpm range, then goes a little too fast. When this becomes an issue is when following others on the trail. I am either going too slow or too fast.
If I had it to do over again I would buy the roller style clutch like the snowmobiles use.
There are lots of options for springs, and they seem to be easy to change.cpp09.jpg

[wfo]

the problem your having with the 40 hp engine is its over powering the driven clutch. on my cv-tech
i had to pull it down and reposition spring and clock it to 240 degress, once i did that no more
mid range or slow speed slippage..so you may have to reweight the drive down to a 155 gram
and work your driven with a different loaded position