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  • T20 mods

    i watched the video about making a double stick for the t20 so u can operate it just like a bobcat. my question is has anyone ever modified the controls so that it operates just like a bobcat. for ex by moving the stick forward u move forward and pull it back to go backwards. i got a basic idea of how it work and the mechanics involved just wondering if anyone has done it? im assuming the reason why the machine dosnt come like this for two reason. one it be more parts. and two theres no clutch to disengage the load coming from the wheels so if u jamed the control backwards while moving forward ud back load the **** out of the trans.

    im new to these machines. i really have no clue how it works yet or what the internals look like other than seeing rebuild videos. my trans is leaking btw. i gotta open it up im assuming its a bad gasket. any other reason why this thing would be leaking?

    btw i know a bobcat is a companies name and not the name of specific machine, i just used it for the sake of reading

  • #2
    If it was easy someone on this site would have done it. The T20 requires shifting into reverse on one side to rotate backward. the typical skid steer loader is hydrostatic and pulling back on one stick switches rotation on the drive motors. I like my old MAX II with split sticks. It has 9 tooth shift collars that can be a bit harder to shift than the 18 tooth ones. It gives me the opertunity to turn around on the trailer and drive off forward. Its a great idea, I believe the old Serria Trail Boss did reverse with sticks.

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    • #3
      Anything is possible(nearly anything).......Due to the way a t-20 operates, and the fact that shifting is required to go from fwd to rev, it is just not practicle to do it. Thinking about how the mechanism would have to be made, it makes more sense to go with 4 sticks. The center 2 could operate the machine in fwd as normal, braking each side as they are pulled back. The outer 2 when pulled back, would first shift the trans to reverse on a spring loaded type shifter, THEN they could pull on the center sticks to operate the plungers.
      When the outer sticks were released slightly they would brake the trans by releaseing the center sticks....and when released fully would shift the trans back to fwd.
      So, basicly it would be possible, but would require a complex bulky mechanism that I doubt could be made to be "user friendly".
      A better idea that has been discussed before is finding a 3 position solenoid, electrically actuated by a dash switch.

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      • #4
        This is a video of the split shifter that the forum member Brushcutter built for my Max IV.

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        • #5
          Check you're vent in the top plug. Make sure it is not plugged up. T20 builds pressure. It has got to go somewhere. Seals will leak.

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          • #6
            I've often thought about using a pair of cables mounted to the dash to shift from forward/reverse... Mounted on the left side.... No more reaching between the legs of passengers.

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            • #7


              This is the split shifter I built for the bigfoot. Both handles on the left of the drivers seat. http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...tml#post111630

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              • #8
                Just curious. How often and when do you split shift? Any particular situation that you select counter rotating. Have you noticed any frame issues?
                Acta non verba

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
                  Just curious. How often and when do you split shift? Any particular situation that you select counter rotating. Have you noticed any frame issues?
                  To be honest, I rarely use the split shift. It is most useful when in the water, alllowing direction changes nearly instantly, and far better control. When on land, sometimes it works well and sometimes not. It can be useful when hi centered in a rut made by a mud truck, letting you come sideways out of the rut. My daily driver (tan machine in the videos) is a 16 HP MaxII. It started out with a yellow spring on the driven, and really didn't have have enough low end. I switched to a red spring and felt like it reduced the speed too much . Now I have a green spring in it and a 1 1/4" wide belt, so far so good with this set up. I don't have a lot of hours on it this way, but I'm confident this is the best set up for me. Back to topic: sometimes this machine would refuse to counter rotate (lack of HP) , then I would try to skid steer and it wouldn't do that well either, needing to move fwd a few feet before acually turning. My take on the problem is 16 hp just isnt enough. If I ever get parts to complete the bigfoot, I can give a review of how it turns.....
                  I don't buy into the theory that it stresses the frame any more than regular skid steering.
                  So, to sum this up.
                  Far superior water turning. Much easier regular shifting FWD to REV. Occasionaly useful on the trails. Very cool to show off to people. LOL Zero drawbacks.

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